The valve thats on tha bar right infront of header has real short valve like on i bikes inner tube when i push in pin its dry no pressure? spray stater fluid air intake starts an cuts of shortly after>then when it does start I can rev it up an while im still pressin gas cars shut off slowy ??? is this a fuel problem

what does pulse mean, scope or NOid test lamp dead on injector
or the injector tips do now spray when engine is cranked
we can not see you doing the tests and matters.


symptoms. my guess African car, and no engine told, gas/petrol not told
sizes in CC or liters. 4cylinders? (roller cam sure)
2006 is GEN 3.
wiki says it is
1,297 cc and 1,597 cc Rocam (Roller Finger Camshaft)
1.3 or 1.6L which one? SOHC
Brazilian-designed Rocam engine is of single overhead-cam configuration with two valves per cylinder.

dead engine, cranks fast right but engine is dead, will not start or stay running.
won't start with quick start spray works, but will not stay running,
seems it has spark (spray works and sounds good)
starts but will not RUN, (spray lasts for 3 seconds)

so is the cam belt ignored and now slipped (if has belt, no books here)
all fuses, good
scan the PCM for DTC error test

the PCM cuts fuel (injectors) for many reasons, for sure to not catch fire.
1: all fused checked for good in all fuses boxes. as in ALL.
2:no real engine told or country told so folks can help with more exact answers
causes, injection dead ( but PCM fires them with electrical pulse)
top cause fuel pressure not to spec,
the crack a line dribble tests are no good. if dry yes but dribble tests mean zero.
the PSI (BAR)_ pressure must be at spec to the fuel rail.

that is one answser, now lets to , injector all 4 pins have no electrical pulse using noid test lamp or scope see the super fast pulse there, 5mS (0.005 seconds)
that cause is, PCM sees spark dead even if spark is good
the PCM seens throttle by wire dead if present, (no books in USA for bantam)
PCM sees CMP or CKP sensor errors, cam or crank sensors.
PCM sees IMMO failing (security key if has it)

now answer 3.
the engine compression is not 150psi and up tested. 10Bar up, not less.
on all 4 cylinder, and near even.

EGR stuck open
CAT core melted and now engine can not pump air, or run.
lots of test to do .
but I bet fuel pressure is wrong, at the rail 30psi up. for most cars
I have no PSI spec, 2bar up. fuel pressure. not zero not 1. but 2 up.

FORGOT TO SAY FUSE IGN BLOWS?
NO FUSE NUMBER TOLD FAILING. IF IS.
BLOWN FUSE, BE REAL CLEAR WHICH ONE BLEW.

22RE ENGINE,. LEARN WHAT IS THERE FIRST. REAL NAMES GET REAL ANSWERS .
22RE
ING FUSE AND EFI FUSE.
OR ENGINE FUSE. REAL NAMES SEEN USA SPEC CAR PU.
FED OR CALIF. CAR?

IGN FUSE , RUNS THESE THINGS, THAT CAN SHORT.
ALL ARE BLACK/YELLOW WIRES
FED CAR.
ECM PIN 3.
AIR INJECTOR VALVE.
EVAP VALVE
FUEL CUT SOLENOID AT CARB IN FACT 2 OF THEM.
OOPS CALIFORNIA CAR LOTS MORE;.
TOP CAUSE IS BAR NONE


TOP CAUSE SEE ?
IS SHORTED OUT O2 SENSOR, OR WIRES TO IT MELTED TO 2000 F DEGREE EXHAUST MANIFOLD. SMOKEN OUT BURNED.
OR THE 02 SENSOR IS SHORTED, AS THEY LOVE TO DO;.
JUST UNPLUG 02 SEE IF FUSE IGN HOLDS, KEEP WIRES SAFE.
NOT DANGLING.

CALIF HORROR.

Look on the Fuel rail on the left and right side, there is usually a cap that looks like a valve cap or a tire. It will have a needle valve inside just like a tire valve, Beware, when you purge the fuel system, make sure the engine is not running or the key is on and make sure the engine is cool. It will spray fuel. Take a blunt end object and push down on the valve pin, be sure to cover your hand with a rag so it don't spray fuel in your face or on your skin. This should purge the fuel system. It may take a couple tries to get all the air out. Allow the fuel to disapate and dry up before you start the engine. This could cause a fire if there is raw fuel laying in the crevises of the engine. An air hose with a blow valve is helpful to dry up the fuel. Again, cover your face or wear safety glasses. I hope this is helpful, I own a 2003 mustang GT my self.

It is possible for pump to run but not put out pressure. Sounds like you need a pump. There is a valve on the fuel rail where you can test fuel pressure. Its just like a tire valve. Just push in on the center pin to see if you get a spray of fuel. It requires around 55 pounds to run. You will need to connect a gauge to the valve to check for proper pressure.

My Blazer ES-1000 Torch was leaking from the fill port; not around the edge, but from the actuator pin in the center of the port. This is how I fixed it.
First, I made sure that it was fully drained of all butane. Then, using a flat blade screwdriver, I unscrewed the fill tube from the bottom of the torch and removed it. It looks like a thin brass tube approximately as big around as a 10 penny nail and probably 3" long.
On the end opposite the part that screws into the torch, you can see that there are two brass tubes, one inside the other. Using two pair of needlenosed pliers (or whatever kind of pliers you have) gently hold the outer tube with one, and unscrew (counterclockwise) the tip (which is the inner tube) with the other.
Be careful, because when you remove the inner tube there will be a small spring in the end of it and possibly the actuator pin on top of the spring. If you don't see the tip, get something like a small nail or a paper clip, flip the outer tube over (do this over a piece of white paper or similar) and if the pin doesn't fall out then use the paper clip to poke it out .
At this point I had to improvise because I couldn't find an o-ring ( and it would probably be difficuly to find one that small anyway). So I found a tube of RTV sealant and squeezed a bit out onto a piece of paper.
Then I took the inner tube and dipped the end with the small hole in the end into the RTV sealant and shaped it like a tiny ice cream cone on the end.
Then I gently slid the inner tube into the outer tube (RTV end first, which, by the way, is the opposite from how it is reassembled) until it stopped. Then I put it aside and let the sealant set.
After about an hour, I gave the inner tube a gentle twist and pulled it out. The "ice cream cone" was still on the end, but it had set in the shape of the seat inside the outer tube. I peeled it off the end and poked a hole in the center using a micro screwdriver.
Next, I sprayed a very short burst of WD-40 into the outer tube, placed the RTV o-ring or washer that I just made back onto the inner tube just as it was oriented before and pushed it back inside the outer tube.
This time when I pulled out the inner tube, the WD-40 caused the o-ring to stay in the end of the outer tube.
Now, carefully drop the actuator pin into the outer tube, the end with the hole in it going first. Then carefully place the spring into the threaded end of the inner tube and while holding both tubes slightly toward the horizontal, slide the threaded end of the inner tube (with the spring still nested in the end) into the outer tube until it stops.
Then slowly screw the inner tube back into the outer tube until it is somewhat tight. Make sure that you don't cross the threads while tightening. As long as you don't force it, you should be able to feel it thread in all the way using your fingertips. Then use the two needlenosed pliers to tighten it just a little more than finger tight.
The last step is to thread the completed assembly back into the bottom of the torch body and tighten it down snugly but don't overtighten.
The first time you fill the torch, you may hear some gas escaping for a second or two, but then it should stop as the new RTV seal seats.
If you can find a small o-ring that will fit snugly onto the end of the actuator pin, then use it instead of going through all the steps to make one out of RTV.
Upon proofreading, I can see that these instructions are going to be quite confusing to a lot of people. I will try to find some time to make a video since this is probably a classic example of why the phrase "A picture is worth a thousand words" came about.
Until then, if those who actually understand the procedure and successfully make this repair will try to help those who are confused, I will be most grateful.
Good luck.
Farron

In the olden days I found wet weather hard start was usually an indicator that new plug wires and a distributor cap were needed. However your vehicle probably does not have a distributor and may well not even have plug wires. However as a first measure I would still get a can of moisture displacing spray at any parts store, remove the individual coils from the plugs and give the end of the plug and the female connector of the coil a good spray. And make sure the well the plug sits in is nice and dry.

Too long to write it all out but you need to remove the axle nut first...remove the center cover from the wheel and the cotter pin if there is one. Put the wheel back on and work through the center with the wheel on the ground. Using a good breaker bar (without a flex head, sometimes adding a long pipe over the handle helps), break the center nut free. Then remove the tire, brake caliper and rotor. Remove the three hub bearing bolts from the inner side of the mount (usually 12point heads, 1/2 inch)
once those bolts are most of the way out, put an old socket you don't need on them and strike them with a hammer 'till the bearing comes free, then remove the bolts. The axle will come out through the bearing hub hole. Use silicone spray on the new boot to get it back through without damaging it.Be aware that there is an inner seal inside the axle tube...Don't push the axle in without supporting it, so it goes into the gears and does not drive the seal out instead. Axle torque is 175 foot lbs...don't back it off to get the pin through it, always tighten more. Hub bolts need to be tight but don't go crazy on them. 45-50 lbs is enough.
Good luck

you can buy remanufactured at parts store or buy used from car-part.com. page with * is lowest cost.

It's a pretty big job for a novice.

here's 96 taurus steps with 3.8l engine. don't have 94. should be similar

Removal
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Tool Number Description T94T-6000-AH Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T57L-500-B Bench Mounted Holding Fixture

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
   

1. Position steering wheel one-half turn to right and lock wheel.
   

1. Position steering column boot out of the way. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and separate.
   

1. Disconnect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose from clean air tube. Loosen two hose clamps retaining clean air tube and position out of the way.
   

1. Disconnect power steering auxiliary actuator and power steering pressure switch.
   

1. Remove two heat shield pushpin retainers from power steering hose bracket and remove heat shield.
   

1. Remove one retaining bolt from left turn pressure hose bracket.
   

1. Position drain pan under steering gear.
   

1. Remove power steering pressure and return hoses from fittings on power steering rack. Position both hoses out of the way. Disconnect rear HO2S connector at steering rack and position out of the way.
   

1. Partially raise vehicle.
   

1. Remove front wheel and tire assemblies.
   

1. Remove LH upper stabilizer bar link retaining nut and position link out of the way.
   

1. Loosen LH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
   

1. Loosen RH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
   

1. Raise vehicle.
   

1. Remove drain pan.
   

1. Remove two steering gear retaining nuts at front subframe.
   

1. Install Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T94T-6000-AH on flex tube.
   

1. Remove bolts, nuts, and gasket from where flex tube and converter Y-pipe connect. Separate tube from pipe.
   

1. Position Rotunda Power Train Lift 014-00765 or equivalent with wood blocks approximately 1016 mm (40 inches) in length (secured to lift) under subframe and raise.
   

1. Remove two rear subframe retaining bolts and lower subframe approximately 102 mm (4 inches).
   

1. Rotate power steering rack to clear bolts from subframe and remove assembly through LH wheel well.
   

1. Remove two bolts retaining power steering hose bracket to short rack and remove bracket.
   

1. Mount steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
   

1. Remove four clamps retaining bellows to steering gear and tie-rods. Remove bellows and power steering gear rack tube.
   

1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while loosening inner tie-rods. Remove tie-rods from steering rack. Remove steering rack from bench-mounted holding fixture.
   

Installation

1. Mount new steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
   

1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while tightening inner tie-rods. Tighten to 90-110 Nm (66-81 lb-ft).
   

1. Apply Steering Gear Grease C3AZ-19518-A meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C119-A to groove in connecting rods where tie-rod bellows clamp to front wheel spindle tie-rod and uniformly apply to inner diameter of bellows. Install bellows and gear rack tube onto short rack.
   

1. Install new inner and outer bellows clamps.
   

1. Remove steering gear from Bench Mounted Holding Fixture and place on bench.
   

1. Install power steering hose bracket and retaining bolts at top of steering gear. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
   

1. Install steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing and install short rack through LH wheel well.
   

1. Position steering rack and retaining bolts through subframe. Raise powertrain lift until rear subframe contacts body and install retaining bolts. Tighten to 135-195 Nm (100-144 lb-ft). Lower and remove powertrain lift from vehicle.
   

1. Install power steering short rack-to-subframe nuts. Tighten to 97-132 Nm (72-97 lb-ft).
   

1. Install new gasket, bolts and nuts at converter Y-pipe and flex tube. Tighten to 34-46 Nm (26-34 lb-ft).
   

1. Remove flex tube holder.
   

1. Partially lower vehicle.
   

1. Install LH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
   

1. Install LH stabilizer bar link and retaining nut. Tighten to 76.5-103.5 Nm (57-76 lb-ft).
   

1. Install RH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
   

1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten to 115-142 Nm (85-105 lb-ft).
   

1. Lower vehicle.
   

1. Remove old Teflon® O-rings from pressure and return hoses. Install new Teflon® O-rings on pressure and return hoses.
   

1. Install power steering pressure hose and return hose to fittings on power steering short rack. Tighten to 33-41 Nm (24-30 lb-ft).
   

1. Install one retaining bolt to left-turn pressure hose bracket. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
   

1. Connect rear HO2S connectors, power steering auxiliary actuator, and power steering pressure switch electrical connectors.
   

1. Position heat shield at power steering hose bracket and install pushpin retainers.
   

1. Install clean air tube, connect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose, and tighten hose clamps. Tighten to 2-3 Nm (18-27 lb-in).
   

1. Install steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and install pinch bolt. Tighten to 41-51 Nm (30-38 lb-ft). Position steering column boot over steering rack.
   

1. Fill and purge system.
   

1. Check operation.
   

1. Adjust only toe for alignment. Refer to Section 04-00 .
   

THE FUEL PUMP MAY BE WORKING BUT MAY NOT HAVE ENOUGH PRESSURE TO OPEN THE INJECTORS. TEST THE FUEL PRESSURE AT THE RAIL. THERE IS A VALVE SIMILAR TO THAT ON A TIRE TUBE CALLED A SCHRADER VALVE. IF YOU DON'T HAVE A FUEL PRESSURE TESTER, THEN PRESS THAT SCHRADER VALVE AND SEE IF THE FUEL SPRAYS A REAL GOOD DISTANCE. IF IT DOESN'T, THEN TRY REPLACING THE FUEL FILTER. AND THEN TRY THE PUMP, INSIDE THE TANK. HOPE THIS HELPS. THANKS FOR USING FIX-YA. AND THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR AN HONEST RATING. GOOD LUCK

I had the same problem. I changed out the idle air control valve and that solved the problem. Somehow the electrical connector fried out some of the pins.