My 1999 chevy tracker 78k miles rear drivers side leaks a fliud and makes a light scrubbing noise brakes and drums were replaced it may have something to do with 4wheel drive axle i was told has anyone had this problem? if so what was is it????

. This could be due to a malfunctioning locking hub control system, which is responsible for engaging the front wheels . Another possibility is that the front axle actuator is faulty . The rear breaks may have seized, another possibility, after the break was on so long.. Regarding grinding, It's possible that the transfer case has been damaged due to lack of use or that there is a problem with one of the gears inside.About the power issue, there could be an issue with the drivetrain. It's possible that one of the axles has become disconnected or that there is a problem with one of the differentials. You mentioned that both driver side and passenger rear wheels are stuck, which could indicate a problem with one of these components. I recommend taking your vehicle to a certified mechanic for diagnosis.

Check the links, Usually run them tight to frame rails until you reach flex lines,splitters or proportioning valves.
2001 Chevy Tracker 4WD TJ0411801 Brake Lines L34M41J10367

Tracker Steel Brake Line Replacement

1999 tracker brake line replacement Google Search

The reason they rot out behind the clips where the brake lines are held to the frame is because they hold moister and salt from the roads they are easy to do with a brake and gasline bend from autozone 12-15$ and 3/8 lines you will have to replace them all because they all will keep blowing out causing a safety hazard and making the vehicle unsafe for the road

the brakes were not installed correctly or something broke hardware wise

pads go with disc brakes
shoes go with drum brakes.

If you have drums in the back, the rear brake shoes may be worn out or are not held together with the springs (a spring may have broken).

Have the brakes checked as soon as possible for broken or worn parts.

Good luck on this repair.

you have a leaking caliper or master cylinder, depending on whether you have rear discs or drums. needs to be fixed ASAP. do the other side while you are at it and replace the pads/shoes.

Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.

The rear wheel bearing is cause of failure .
I would have the rear hub and bearing assemlby replaced.

Removal Procedure Tools RequiredJ 38400
Caution: Keep fingers away from rear brake shoe springs to prevent fingers from being pinched between spring and shoe web or spring and backing plate.

1. Remove the brake drum. Refer to Brake Drum Replacement



Notice: Do not over stretch the adjuster spring. Damage can occur if the spring is over stretched.

2. Use the J 38400 in order remove the adjuster spring (1). Disengage the adjuster spring loop from the tab on the adjuster actuator.
2.1. Remove the loop end of the adjuster spring from the adjuster actuator. 2.2. Remove the straight end of the adjuster spring from the secondary brake shoe.



3. Use the J 38400 in order to spread the brake shoes apart.
4. Remove the adjuster.

Installation Procedure

1. Use the J 38400 in order to spread the brake shoes apart.



Important: Ensure that the adjuster (2) engages the brake shoes (4 and 5), the park brake actuator (3), and the adjuster actuator (1) properly.

2. Install the adjuster.



Notice: Do not over stretch the adjuster spring. Damage can occur if the spring is over stretched.

3. Install the adjuster spring (1).
3.1. Install the straight end of the adjuster spring into the secondary brake shoe. 3.2. Install the loop end of the adjuster spring to the adjuster actuator.
4. Install the brake drum.

Mine was the idle control motor