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Anonymous Posted on Aug 05, 2013

Van alternator/voltage regulator

My boyfriend;s van has been losing poower as he's driving. At first when the van's RPM's increased, the radio would quit, then the dash lights, then the headlights, etc.... until the van's engine just quit. It is a 1990 Ford Econoline cargo van that now has a new battery, alternator, & voltage regulator. What else could this issue be?

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  • Posted on Aug 05, 2013
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Does the van starts after is quits, does it crank or does the engine turnover?

  • Anonymous Aug 05, 2013

    The van only starts if jumped. Otherwise nothing. The last time it happened (yesterday)it didn't even crank. :(

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5 Related Answers

carldc3

carl carpenter

  • 82 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 12, 2009

SOURCE: all lights on 2000 honda civic flicker

sounds like you have a voltage regulator problem which is in the alternator, not changable. would recommend taking it to a battery store and have them do a load test. more and likely you need a new alternator

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Anonymous

  • 37 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 08, 2009

SOURCE: 1990 ford econoline van trans problem

Check tv cable, from throttle body to trans.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 19, 2009

SOURCE: Toyota Hilux rev gauge,radio,windscreen wipers,oil gauge stopped

check fuses first

Anonymous

  • 1986 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 20, 2009

SOURCE: 98 expedition battery light comes on with increase of rpm

There may be no loss of voltage, but is there a surge of voltage?

As for the battery itself when tested, it should read 12-12.5Volts across the
leads when the car is off. When the car is running, the battery should be reading 13-14Volts across the leads, anything lower means the alternator is not charging your battery, anything higher means the alternator is over charging and damaging your battery.

Another cause for the battery light could be your ECU has detected an error

Testimonial: "thanks, haven't seen a alternator discharge light go on and off, normally it's either worked or didn't"

Anonymous

  • 855 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 21, 2009

SOURCE: issue with dash lights dimming while driving,

If the battery and alternator tested fine. I would have the charging system rechecked when engine is hot and at high rpm's. This way the checks are being done as if you were driving and driving for a long time. Alternators can work fine when cold but weaken when hot or stop working. This problem is not rare but only is seen occassionly. Unless it was checked at an electrical shop the average shop doesn't run these tests for they don't see the problem often enough to automaticly run them at all times. Good luck and let me know how you make out.

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What could cause my alternator in my 1981 Ford Econoline 150 to overcharge?

Just fit a exchange unit ,,the electronic regulator is faulty end of story .Plus voltage drain could be a diode packed up ,just fit a exchange unit ,
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ALTERNATOR NOT CHARGING

have an accredited auto electrician check the out put of the alternator . Check the condition of the drive belt and the tension of the belt. place a multimeter across the battery terminals and it should read battery voltage . Increase rpm to around 2.000 rpm and the reading should go up to 14.5-15.5 volts. It doesn't move I would suspect a faulty regulator or diode pack in the alternator.
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2004 f350 when speeding up, lose all power to truck (radio, gauges, etc)

sound like faulty alternator voltage regulator. check alternator out put at battery with engine idling should be 13.5 - 14.5 volts at 2000 rpm if not lower you have faulty voltage regulator.also check alternator drive belt and check alternator for loose wires.besure turn off radio before disconnecting negative battery cable to keep from locking out radio losing code.
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My 2005 Pontiac Sunfire has had several problems over the past couple of months. When I was driving all my gages went to zero when I would start to break. After I started moving again they would go up....

Your car's symptoms (voltage fluctuations under load that shouldn't happen) seem to
strongly indicate that your voltage regulator has failed. The voltage regulator is the component
that regulates voltage coming from the alternator, and which is supplied to the rest of the car.
Your new belt tensioner indicates to me (and should have to your mechanic) that the
alternator and/or voltage regulator weren't able to operate properly, and a faulty belt tensioner
has killed more than one car's alternator/voltage regulator.
Your do not need new headlights. Do fix the turn signals.

In the 2005 Sunfire, the voltage regulator is an integral component of the alternator, and is
not separately serviceable. So your 2005 Sunfire needs a new alternator.

2005 Pontiac Sunfire Alternator - Duralast Part Number: DL2305-15-4 $199.99 available at:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/2005-Pontiac-Sunfire/Alternator/_/N-jmqtpZ93xme

The national parts chains (Advance Auto Parts, AutoZone, Pep Boys) will (for free) administer
a "Charging System Test." Which will telly you for sure that your alternator/voltage regulator
is bad. Do this before replacing alternator, since its a pricy part in the 05 Sunfire.

Just in case, Here's the 2005 Sunfire manual entry on (a) Diagnosis & testing the alternator, and
(b) replacement of the alternator

Alternator replacement is a do-it-yourself project, though you may need to get a
"Serpentine Belt Kit" on your favorite parts store's loan-a-tool program to remove/re-install the serpentine (drive) belt.
======================================================================
Diagnosis & Testing - 2005 Pontiac Sunfire Alternator


Alternator Load Test

1. With the engine running, turn on the blower motor and the high beams ( or other electrical accessories to place a load on the charging system).

2. Increase and hold engine speed to 2000 rpm.

3. Measure the voltage reading at the battery.

4. The voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts from the voltage test. If the voltage does not meet specifications, the charging system is malfunctioning.
NOTE
Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (voltage regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.




Alternator No-Load Test

1. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
CAUTION
Ensure that the transmission is in Park and the emergency brake is set. Blocking a wheel is optional and an added safety measure.


2. Turn off all electrical loads (radio, blower motor, wipers, etc.)

3. Start the engine and increase engine speed to approximately 1500 rpm.

4. Measure the voltage reading at the battery with the engine holding a steady 1500 rpm. Voltage should have raised at least 0.5 volts, but no more than 2.5 volts.

5. If the voltage does not go up more than 0.5 volts, the alternator is not charging. If the voltage goes up more than 2.5 volts, the alternator is overcharging.
NOTE
Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.


6. If the voltage is within specifications, proceed to the next test.



Voltage Test

1. Make sure the engine is OFF , and turn the headlights on for 15-20 seconds to remove any surface charge from the battery.

2. Using a DVOM set to volts DC, probe across the battery terminals.

3. Measure the battery voltage.

4. Write down the voltage reading and proceed to the next test.



Removal & Installation - 2005 Pontiac Sunfire Alternator


2.2L (VIN 4) Engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.

2. Remove or disconnect the following:

Negative battery cable

Accessory drive belt

Alternator mounting bolts

Alternator electrical connectors

Alternator





To install:

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.

Alternator. Torque the upper bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) and the lower bolt to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).

Alternator electrical connectors

Accessory drive belt

Negative battery cable





2.2L (VIN F) Engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.

2. Remove or disconnect the following:

Negative battery cable

Accessory drive belt

Alternator mounting bolts

Alternator electrical connectors

Alternator





To install:

1. Install or connect the following:

Alternator. Torque the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).

Alternator electrical connectors

Accessory drive belt

Negative battery cable
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Loss of power& at times stalls Fuel pressure

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03 Mazda Tribute's charging indicator light begins flashing on and off when engine reaches 1200 rpm and becomes contineously on at and above 1500 rpm. With engine idling or decelerating to below 1200 rpm...

It may be that the light is being tripped due to an "over voltage" condition. The faster you spin the alternator/engine the higher the voltage output of the alternator. I would test the voltage coming out of the alternator. It should be at about 14.3v or so max. If it gets into the 16v+ range when you increase the engine RPM then the voltage regulator has failed and needs to be replaced.
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when you say car lost power bought a new battery.sound like alternator not charging battery.with car running your voltage at battery should be 13.5 volts or 14.5 volts it not alternators need replacing.have garage replace alternator if faulty because 1993 to 1994 cars if you disconnect battery car would lose memory causing car not to idle.the car will stall out at a stop light or stop sign whole lot.it would relearn itself but the stalling out dangerous around a lot of traffic.
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have it bench tested by an accredited auto electrician
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Voltage drop

The voltage regulator is having a problem. It is built into the alternator. You should take it to a local parts store that does free testing, and have it tested out.
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