Question about Cars & Trucks
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
even though the fuse is good, change it anyway and look for other bad fuses. it is possible that someone rewired and put wired them somewhere else. i just saw that yesterday. also, check to make sure a wire did not fall off or get broken/fried. if both power points are not working they are connected to the same power and ground points, whereby creating a circle/circuit. also check to see if one of the units is bad. if it take two to complete the circuit/circle and one unit is bad, maybe the circle/circuit is broken. you can test the units with two jumper wires and your battery/a jump box. these units are only + and -.
Posted on Sep 23, 2008
If it was the front dash mounted lighter socket you used, the correct fuse is the 15A CIG & RADIO fuse (at the end of the second row) of the dash fusebox. If replacing the fuse hasn't fixed it, you may need to look closer at the wiring from the fusebox as it's likely the wiring has gone open circuit.
Take the fuse out and check for voltage at the terminals in the fusebox with the ingition key turned to the ACC position. One terminal or the other will have 12V on it. If no voltage on either you have a fusebox to ignition key wiring problem. Check for voltage on the ACC pin of the ignition switch, with the key turned to the ACC position. That's pin 3, a blue wire, of the 8 pin ignition switch connector. If still no volatge the switch is likely faulty. the voltage into the switch must be there as it also feeds the ECU and IGN systems, so the car wouldn't run at all if it wasn't.
There is another possibility. If you have an alarm system, immobilizer or turbo timer (assuming the GTT model) these devices could be interrupting the power lines and be the culprit devices.
I assume it wasn't the rear hatch area lighter socket you used, because the fuse for that doesn't power the radio or clock. The fuse for that socket is the 15A ACCESSORY fuse in the passenger side footwell fuse panel.
Posted on Oct 31, 2009
Visually inspect horn make sure its not corroded and wiring is on it tight. Then use a voltmeter and when horn button is depressed 12v should register on the meter. If 12v are there and horn doesn't sound the horn is defective. If 12v does not make it there then its either the relay or clock spring (located inside steering wheel) most likely. A visual inspection should pretty much do it with the clock spring (corrosion ,wear of contacts). Relay must have B+ going to it at all times and coming out only when horn is depressed. good luck
Posted on May 21, 2010
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