Question about Cars & Trucks
Will not go into 1st or reverse unless truck is turned off, makes a grinding noise/squeel until in gear
Try bleeding the slave cylinder sounds like the clutch is not disengaging enough to slow the transmission down enough to allow it it to fall into gear
Posted on Aug 02, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Have them flush the fluid out under warranty and put in new fluid, and have them bleed the clutch lines in case air is getting in there. Audi and VW claim lifetime transmission fluid but it's BS - I've changed relatively low mile fluid from these cars and it was horrendous. It's possible that the fluid itself is causing trouble, but it's more likely that it is a synchro problem. If it was a clutch issue, you should have problems with more than just reverse gear - a clutch simply engages and disengages the engine and transmission, regardless of which gear it is. The problem (if not fixed by fluid) is in the transmission, and being under warranty, don't accept another "suggestion" like they're giving you. Changing your clutch isn't gonna do it.
Posted on Aug 12, 2008
In 9 out of 10 cases when I see this problem in the ranger, it is the planetary gear in the transmission. It is made of the cheapest metal available. It breaks usually from going to park before the truck stops or switching from reverse to drive while still rolling. Just a Idea , But I hope it isn't that . Reverse will work fine for a while, and have no forward gears.
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
SOURCE: 2002 Ford Ranger Clutch Problems
It's not the clutch, it is the clutch slave cylinder. Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder and you will see that it will be empty. The problem is the trans has to be removed to replace it.
Posted on Feb 07, 2009
Suggest you check the fluid level of the transmission first. Remove the fill plug, and see if it is Below the proper level. Do Not fill at this time! There is a reason for this.
Then I would suggest draining the fluid. You are also looking for brass fragments in the fluid. Drain into a three quart metal, or plastic drain pan. (They are approximately 18 inches across, and 4 inches deep)
1.Manual transmissions use Synchronizer's made of a brass alloy. The synchronizers have tapered teeth, that the nose of the teeth can be worn down. Also a tapered surface on the synchronizer, that can be worn down. Brass fragments in the transmission fluid is a sign of this wear.
Some brass 'dust' will occur as normal wear. A large accumulation means you have problems. Transmission is hard to shift, is one of those symptoms due to this.
This link to an animated working of a five-speed manual transmission, may help to explain how the components interact with each other, and also help me to explain the Synchronizer/s.
(From Howstuffworks.com - Auto- Under the Hood - Transmissions and Drivetrain)
Looking at the animation, observe the 'gold' colored parts. In particular, observe the the pair of gold colored teeth at the rear. (The teeth are in a vertical row, going up and down)
Now also observe the blue colored teeth next to them, on either side. (On the spinning gears)
You are looking at a side view of the transmission, and also a side view of the Synchronizers.
The synchronizers are round just like the gears. They have a Female tapered surface where they meet the gear. The gear has a Male tapered surface on the outside of the gear, that matches.
When the female tapered surface of the synchronizer meets the male tapered surface of the gear, the friction contact makes the synchronizer start turning the same speed, as the gear.
Helps the gear being shifted into start turning also, and the - teeth of the synchronizer, - gear to be engaged, and - already turning components are synchronized to each other. They will be all turning the same speed, so shifting will be smooth.
This shows you Synchronizer rings for a 4-speed Muncie transmission,
Enlarge it for a better view.
See the teeth going around the synchronizer ring? Notice that they are pointed, or V shaped. When the nose, or tip of this V is worn down, a manual transmission is hard to shift.
Also observe the flat landing on top. (In this view it's on top) The flat landing has three rectangular cutouts in it. (There are used for Detents)
Come from that top landing, down the side to the teeth. This Side has a tapered surface. Tapered ever so slightly, that it is not readily visible in this photo.
When this tapered surface wears down, the transmission is hard to shift.
1.Low fluid will cause hard shifting. It will also cause abnormally high wear of the synchronizer rings, (Synchronizer Rings are also referred to as 'Blocker Rings')
2.Worn Synchronizer Rings,
Broken or worn Detent 'buttons',
Broken Detent Springs,
and worn Synchronizer Hub's,
will cause hard shifting.
Should you not have an abnormal amount of brass shavings in your transmission fluid, and found the fluid to be low, you may want to just replace the fluid to the proper level, and see if this works first.
If so, I suggest contacting your Ford dealer, and see what the proper transmission fluid is for YOUR Ford Ranger. They will go by THE transmission is used in your truck, and will have any updates if better fluid has been developed since your truck was made.
I know dealers are expensive to buy from sometimes, but I implore you to use the transmission fluid they recommend.
It will have special additives.
Posted on Oct 31, 2009
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