Question about Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
A- you will have to drop oil pan,then remove rear bearing cap.they market a chinese finger that can install in the upper chanber, seat lower half in cap groove install cap . bolts finger tight, then torque, both bolts evenly as you can until done to manufactures specs.
Posted on Oct 05, 2008
First, the easiest way IS to remove the transmission, it is a one piece seal, if it were a 2 piece, you would need to remove the oil pan and Rear Main Bearing Cap which in my opinion is alot tougher. When installing the new seal, make sure the the end of the crankshaft is clean of debris, lube the seal before sliding it over the end of the crankshaft to ease installation and some like to apply a thin coat of high temp sealant to the outside surface of the new seal to ensure no leakage. When reinstalling the flywheel/flex plate, proper torque is key because you dont want it working loose and having to remove the transmission again.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
ok then here is the procedure
1 take off the axle nut
2 on the lower control arm you will find a large nut and bolt i belive the nut is a 21mm and the bolt side is an 18mm. this bolt is the one at the knuckle near the brakes. remove it
3 you will need to pull the knuckle out of the way or a helper to pull the knuckle out of the way so you can slip the axle out of the knuckle.( its a tight fit but there is room to slip it out.)
4 use a pry bar to pop the axle free of the diff. hosing its held in by a spring clip make sure the clip comes out with the axle if it gets stuck inside you will have to fish it out.
5 use a pry bar or screwdriver to pry seal out of housing then use a flat object that contacts the entire rim of the new seal so it can evenly be installed with out getting smashed and tap it in with a hammer. ( a good trick here is to use some grease and pack it into the new seal where the spring is this will prevent the spring from being shocked out of the seal during instalation . the spring keeps tension on the rubber in the seal so it stays tight to the shaft it is sealing.)
6 then revers the above steps. also make sure you are using the right gear lube it will most likely be 75w-140 but make sure you check your owners manual will tell you if it doesnt say on the diff cover. you can cause a lot of damage if you put in the wrong thing. and make sure you feel the axle spring clip snap into place.
as a note there are two types of axle seals that are used on these so if the new seal looks different than the old seal then the folliowing will be important to you.the seals on these have been redesigned so if you axle has what looks like a cup or dust cover pressed onto the shaft where it goes into the diff the new style does not use this and it will prevent the axle form going in all the way so the spring clip will not lock in and you will have a leak. so you will have to remove it and install the axle without it.
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
SOURCE: rear axle leaking
Block the front tires. Break the rear lugs loose. Jack up the rear of the truck at the center if possible. remove the wheels & brake drums. Remove the brake shoes,return springs & all the other hardware. Remove the differential cover & drain oil. If you have a posi the next step sucks. You need to remove the threaded pin from the housing & remove the axle retaining clips. All the while,being carefull of the spring in the posi unit. If no posi,then same procedure,minus the "pucker factor". After the axle is out,take a large flat blade screw driver or pry bar & pop the seal out. Keep in mind the axle bearing is probably gone too , so that's another procedure. Keep it apart,you'll be glad you did.
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
First check if the vent cap is plugged, to do that find the T shaped object on the housing spin the top of the tee if it does not move freely then pull it off and clean it. If it's leaking out of the front seal it's the drive line seal is leaking and will have to remove the drive line put Emergency brake on and block wheels and loosen 24MM nut to get to the seal you have to pop the seal off with a screw driver and you have to replace the crush bearing when you do this. However recommend you leave that to a professional or purchase a www.alldatadiy.com susbscription for your car so you know how to set up the bearings if it is needed, you will also have to have a tork wrench to tork the nut down. You will a new Nut for the pintal shaft that comes out of the front of the axle as well the nut is nut reusable once you remove it. Another note you have to have air impact to get the nut off or a torch t heat it just enoungh to get it off but warning fuel tank is right there so if your all thumbs don't mess with it. If it's not leaking from the front seal and is leaking from the back side of the differential then you must drain the oil and replace the gasket on the rear plate, this job is not to difficult but you mus be sue you put silicone on the cover and gasket and put silicone on the bolts as you put them in because if not you will get bolt leakage, these also require a tork wrench. the front seal nut and crush bearing will cost $45.00 the rear will cost $15.00 for the silicone and gasket. And warning if the differtal is leaking from the seal it is quite possible that the bearings will need to be replaced or set up again and this takes experince or it could cost you $750.00 to rebuild the differital. hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 09, 2009
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