Question about Cars & Trucks
Check drive belt tension. drive belt could need adjusting or replaced if glazed.check battery fuse link.make sure alternator battery plus feed wire getting 12 volts if not the battery positive cable faulty.the small 10 gauge wire on battery positive cable that feed alternator could be broken check alternator wiring field wires and battery feed wire.
Posted on Aug 02, 2013
Send it to the salvage yard
27 Years old,let it go
Posted on Aug 01, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
check the temperature switch for power and test power at fan relay, you can also run wire from battery to fan directly and tap to see if fan works
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
NOT NECESSARILY IN ORDER: Remove the 2 nuts from the top of your shock tower under the hood - remove the pivot bolt at the bottom of your shock fork - remove the upper control arm ball joint nut - remove the lower control arm ball joint nut - bang on the thick metal near the ball joints with a hammer (not hitting the rubber or the ball joint's bolts - remove the tie rod ball joint nut and do the same with the hammer - pull the shock and spring assembly out - You might need a spring compressor to take out the stock spring safely - remove the nut on top of the shock - It's recommended that you replace your shocks now - install the new springs according to the directions with the package - get a camber correction kit for your car - put it back together and immediately go pay for an alignment. Good luck.
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
That leaves only two probablities: 1) a possible short in the wiring to the alternator, or 2) the alternator itself, particularly the voltage regulator inside it. Voltage regulators can be changed, but virtually nobody does that. Since you have to take the alternator off to do it, most people simply replace the alternator as a unit.
I would take a good look at the wiring to see if there are any worn-bare places. I doubt that that's the problem, but it could be. There is also a fusible link (flat single piece of metal which melts under too high a charge) in SOME models of your car in the wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the alternator (I doubt that your car has one since it probably would have blown rather than the fuse you indicated).
Next (you won't be delighted by this) change the alternator. It might look difficult, but if you take your time and you have or can borrow the appropriate wrenches, you can do it.
Detach the negative cable from the battery.
Mark and detach all of the connectors from the alternator (do not trust your memory).
Test the tension of the drive belt (you’ll have to get it roughly back to that tension when you change the alternator)
Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt (the one that goes through the oblong hole so you can tighten the alternator against the belt).
Loosen the pivot bolt (the only other bolt holding the alternator in place).
Detach the drive belt (push the alternator away from it, but do not take the belt off, unless you have a diagram indicating how it goes on).
Remove the adjusting bolt and the pivot bolt, then the alternator should be free.
Take the alternator with you when you go to get a replacement (some place like Autozone would be okay. Ask for a rebuilt alternator (they are cheaper and usually reliable).
Make sure the rebuilt alternator has the same connections as the old one. Look at it carefully.
Alternators usually don’t come with the pulley. Have them put your old pulley on the alternator you are buying.
Take it home, put it in, tension the belt to approximately where it was. Start the car.
I hope that this helps you.
Posted on Nov 25, 2009
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