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Coolant reservoir bubbling

I just changed my thermo when my car started to when I run my AC it overheats and after I run it for a while my reservoir bubbles way more than it should.

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1 Answer

Have it tested for a bad head gasket.
Why would you be using it at all
in that condition (overheating)?

Posted on Aug 01, 2013


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Mazda MPV Coolant Loss (but no overheat)

i had the same thing on my wifes 2000 mpv van...the ends of the radiator are made of some sort of composite type had a slight crack in it....wasn't obvious until it got worse and started streaming water from it when warmed up....even after it cooled enough not to be spewing it was hard to actually see the crack though a few inches long....was hard to even see where the water and antifreeze mixture was coming from until i took out the radiator

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have 1994 Nissan Altima 230K that overheats after a few miles.

you've answered your own question! You're cooling system has leaks possibly from your rad. You should have no leaks whatsoever.
I would also look to see if you have leaks anywhere else. Look under the car on the passenger side - see if you have leaks from the water pump. I would go to a radiator
repair shop. They will flush the system and check for leaks.
I wouldn't hang around or else you will damage your engine AND transmission. Which will be more money down the line.

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

  • 97 Answers

SOURCE: my car overheats and blows steam from reservoir

I would first check for any leaks in the cooling system at the radiator, reservoir, radiator cap, coolant hoses, thermostat housing etc. Next you can get a cheap cooalnt tester for a parts store and actually check the coolants protection or cooling level it provides, your thermostat could be bad and not opening properly and would need to be replaced (you could actually check the thermostat in a pot of boiling water to determine function) next if your coolant hasn't been changed in a while or you notice any kind of debris/rust/etc while checking your coolant you should flush your engines cooling system and replace coolant, if your coolant is dirty your radiator could be clogged and not circulating coolant properly, your water pump may be going bad or you may even have a problem with the engine. start with the cooling system

Posted on Aug 04, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: all of my coolant leaked

once all the coolant leaks out your temp gage wont be accurate because there is no contact with coolant and the sensor that takes the temp reading. broken serpentine belt, weak belt tentioner, clogged cooling system

Posted on Oct 17, 2010

  • 54 Answers

SOURCE: started overheating one day when idling, but hit

Sounds like you have a leak somewhere. A good place to check first is the heater core. It is on the passenger side under the dash. Check the floor carpet and under the carpet if it is wet or any signs of antifreeze. If so than your heater core is leaking, and since you don't have heat it is of course broken. This could also the the reason why you have bubbly coolant, with air leaking into the system.

I would start with that.

Good Luck! :)

Posted on Nov 04, 2010

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2000 lincoln ls overheats. Changed t stat and waterpump. Boiling in driverside reservoir. Passenger reservoir look like fluids mixed. Car have heat

With engine cold remove radiator cap. Start engine and look for bubbles in cooling fluid. Bubbles mean blown head gasket.

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Burping involves the following steps.

Remove the lid to the reservoir, remove the radiator cap, fill the radiator to the top, turn heating on full blast, start engine and get to operating temperature, keep topping up. Squeezing the radiator hoses helps. The level will rise and then drop when the thermostat opens. Top up when bubbles stop and the level becomes constant. Put radiator cap on, top up the reservoir and put the cap on that.

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Ok, first thing, its a Ford Product. Thats an issue for another time. But for this problem, perhaps you bought the wrong thermostat for the car. They are made to open at specific temperatures. If the one you put in opens at say 200 degrees, and your car wants one that opens at say 145 degrees, then your gonna over heat even before you have any water flowing through the engine to keep it cool.

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Low coolant light is on but does not overheat and has plenty of coolant in radiator and reservoir

Those sensors are bad all the time. It is the sensor on the radiator tank. They have fingers on them that trap air bubbles. You can try tapping on it, but that usually breaks it anyways. The fix is to change the coolant level sensor.

Anyways if that helps you any little bit, then feel free to follow me on Twitter. That one is at:

Thanks for the vote, and good luck!

May 15, 2010 | 1994 Chevrolet Lumina

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Keep pushing coolant out of reservoir trying to overheat

Is it bubbling out like there is air pushing it? If so two thing I know of cause this you have air in your system bleed it thru the bleeder on the water pump and thermo areas this would happen if you had the cooling system drained or had a leak. Or you have a blown head gasket this would happen if you got it hot and kept driving it

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Overheats when idiling and overheats , cools down , overheats when driving. Have replaced the thermostat but is still doing the same thing. There are no apparent waterleaks. No water in the oil and runs...

When the car is completely cool,check the electric fan(s) for smooth rotation.

Clean/check/change the thermo sensor,contact and wire.


Excavate air pocket in coolant system / check for head gasket leak

This test will kill two birds with one stone.




You will spill some coolant during this air pocket purge test.......BE KIND TO THE ENVIRONMENT and ANIMAL please clean up after the test!


Put the front end on a pair of ramp or park your car on a VERY STEEP HILL (radiator facing top of the hill) .

Top of the coolant reserve tank

Let it ran for 10-15 minutes.

Monitor for air pockets escaping from coolant reserve tank.

Small amount of bubbles is OK at 1-5 minute mark

After the thermostat open up (after 195 F warm up) at
5-12 minute mark or after high idle you should see less bubbles.

If you do not see any in rush of bubbles then your thermostat may be partially stuck or rusted badly inside the thermostat hosing.

Give the thermostat host few gentle taps.

If you see larger bubbles surfacing after 15 minutes then should do a hydrocarbon (HC) dye test to test for potential head gasket leak.

Let engine cold down and top off coolant reserve tank.

Start monitor for coolant lost


A coolant flush is require every 2 years or 24,000 miles.

I recommend the thermostat that has a relief pop-let to reduce the change of burst radiator and coolant hoses.

Make sure you get a new thermostat gasket,black RTV and fresh coolant for the job.

Please post more information by clicking the comment link on the top right corner.

DON'T FORGET to RATE ME if my tip is helpful to you!

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Mazda MPV Coolant Loss (but no overheat)

i had the same thing on my wifes 2000 mpv van...the ends of the radiator are made of some sort of composite type had a slight crack in it....wasn't obvious until it got worse and started streaming water from it when warmed up....even after it cooled enough not to be spewing it was hard to actually see the crack though a few inches long....was hard to even see where the water and antifreeze mixture was coming from until i took out the radiator

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