Question about Cars & Trucks
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: car died while driving
it could just be a sensor malfunctioning from possibly getting too hot. as everyone knows slow traffic sucks....well its hard on the car too because the car gets alot hotter in the engine bay due to lack of air flow.....heat like that can make sensors malfunction everyonce n awhile....i wouldnt worry bout it unless it happens again...which it shouldnt.
Posted on Oct 02, 2008
Sounds like the serpentine belt (AKA fan belt) may have broken or come loose. You'd know this if you saw any lights come on when your car stopped accelerating.
Next, it could be the alternator went bad while you were driving, then when the battery went dead, the fuel pump shut off and you had no more fuel running to the engine.
Finally, (as far as I can think of with out diagnosing the car myself) it may be the timing chain/belt may have broken. I had a 1994 Chevy Cavalier with this problem, driving down the road, everything's fine, I heard a little "pop"and the engine died and I couldn't get it restarted.
When you are driving at a higher speed, the transmission will stay in gear (if you're still in drive) and rotate the engine (although the engine is no longer firing) until you slow down to a speed where the trans realizes there's no more power and it disengages the torque converter to prevent damage to the engine.
So, 3 things to have your mechanic check in order (or yourself if you like) serpentine(fan) belt, alternator, timing chain/belt. The serpentine belt is on the front of the engine, if it's front wheel drive the engine is turned 90 degrees and the belt is on either the passenger or driver's side. The alternator (probably needing to be tested at an auto parts store) is near the top of the engine, attached to the serpentine belt with wires (not hoses or tubes) coming out of the back and if you look in the holes around the alternator case, it looks like an electric motor. The timing chain/belt is usually an internal part and will need to be found with the manuals listed above or a professional will have to fix this problem. All cars and engines have it in different places, but this is what times the intake and exhaust valves to open and close at the right time to keep the engine running.
If you are still having problems, reply to this thread so we can help you figure out exactly what's going on and we'll know what we've tried already. I hope this helps. Good luck and don't forget to rate!
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
Sounds the EGR valve and EVP sen is bad even if you tested it. The EGR valve cntrols idle and if carbon up will make the car stall or idle high and low (rpms going up and down) This was common on all cars during that time. I would say replace the EGR valve and senosr. This should take care of the problem. One more thing have the fuel pressure check on the car.
Posted on Mar 20, 2009
I cannot see how adding a fuel additive would help to be honest. I would be looking for a split or leaking vacuum line, I have even seen a leaking evap canister before that caused a similar problem. Does the engine pull clean and strong when it is warm or at cruising speeds? Does it feel like its running lean or misfiring?
Posted on Apr 08, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Mar 16, 2014 | 1998 Toyota Caldina GT-T
Nov 29, 2013 | 1998 Toyota Caldina GT-T
Dec 06, 2012 | 1998 Toyota Caldina GT-T
Dec 29, 2011 | Cars & Trucks
Feb 18, 2010 | 1998 Toyota Corolla
Oct 06, 2008 | 2001 Toyota Celica
142 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!