Question about Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 24 volt charging problems .2
A 12 volt battery is actually 13.2 volts fully charged. If you are reading 16 volts, you are probably getting extranious voltage from the system somewhere, especially if the vehicle is running when you check the voltage. The alternator will put out about 15-18 volts to charge the battery normally, and yours may put out 28-32 volts to charge them in series, but the batteries, when disconnected, should never read more than about 13.2 volts each. Typically, it will read about 12 1/2 volts when disconnected. COMPLETELY DISCONNECT BOTH OF THE BATTERIES. If you still read 16 volts when it is disconnected, you must have a bad meter because the battery can't produce that much voltage, no matter what. (Six 2.2 volt cells connected in series inside the case.) Put the meter on a known good battery on another car that is not running and see if you get the same reading. It sounds like the other battery is almost dead, regardless, and it sounds like your series/parallel switch may be malfunctioning. (That is the switch that puts the battery in series to run the 24 volt starter, then puts the batteries in parallel to run the remainder of the vehicle on 12 volts. This is all assuming that you have a diesel vehicle with a 24 volt starter and that is why you have two batteries.
Posted on Aug 19, 2008
when running your car ur battery should be around 12.4v to 13.2v ur car runs off the alternator and should be putting out more the 12 volts bc of all the assesories in ur car need more then 12volts there are no problems with ur car it should be like that
Posted on Nov 17, 2009
You may have a voltage drop in the battery feed to the Alternator through the fuse link and into the battery.
Check the charge rate at the battery feed on the Alternator, it should be at least 13.8 volts, if it is, locate the fuse link and check it there on both sides of the link, if its still good, follow the cable back to the battery checking the voltage as you go. If you find that the voltage suddenly drops across a connection or the fuse link, remove and clean the connection or replace it if possible. If the voltage at the back of the Alternator is less then 13 volts, then the new Alternator may be faulty. If the voltage is higher then 15 volts, then the Battery feed to the Alternator is bad and MUST be fixed. Check these voltages with the engine running but watch out for moving parts ( fans etc). If you think the battery feed to the Alternator is bad, shut the engine down and recheck the voltage at the Alternator, it should be at least the same as it is across the battery. If there is no power to the Alt when the engine is off, start at the fuse link, checking for voltage and trace back to the alt until you lose the reading. If you get no voltage at the fuse link, track it back to the battery. The voltages at the battery and Alternator should be the same or only have a difference of half a volt, any more and you need to locate and fix the bad connection. DO NOT run the Alternator without the load of the battery for extended periods as this will damage the Alternator. The Alt needs the internal resistance of the battery to function correctly. If the voltages from the battery to the alt are correct, check the regulator wiring. If memory serves, there are two small wires to the alt which are in a small plug into the alt and one thick cable which connects to a bolt on the alt. The thick cable is the battery feed, the two small cables are the regulator feeds. One small cable operates the warning lamp in the dash cluster and the other is another battery feed which gives the regulator an indication of the charge rate AT THE BATTERY so if this one is missing the regulator will also cut out. The warning lamp wire serves as an indication to the regulator that the ignition is turned on and makes the alternator charge. This lamp should be on with ignition on but engine NOT running and should go out when you start the engine. If this lamp does not light up at all, suspect a broken or missing warning lamp connection or faulty regulator.A blown warning lamp bulb will also prevent the alt from working, this is because the bulb is fed with power and is grounded at the alt through the regulator and exciter diodes, feeding the regulator with power until the engine starts, then the alternator output essentially puts power to both sides of the diodes causing the lamp to extinguish. A diode is a one way valve for electricity and the regulator is inside the alt. If you suspect a faulty alt or regulator, remove them and have them checked by an autoelectrician. Unless you know what you are doing, DO NOT attempt to disassemble the alt as you can cause catastrophic damage and have to purchase a replacement alt. You may also void any warranty by disassembling the alt..
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Posted on Dec 15, 2009
Yes you can slowly charge the battery in the truck,but make sure the battery is disconnected first,make sure you unhook the neg first then the positive,and when reinstalling it hook the positive back up first the the negative you want absolutely no sparks.I have also had to jump start these vehicles at that battery and had the owners drive them 50+ miles and they were fine after that.For those cars it is recommended that they have to be driven or started for a length of time every day or two.I would call your local Toyota dealer and find out for sure.
Posted on Dec 26, 2009
SOURCE: alternator not charging
ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT SLIPPING OR BATTERY CABLES NEED REPLACING IF THEY ARE THE ORIGINAL ONES.THE VOLT GAUGE COULD BE FAULTY.TO TELL GET A DIGITAL VOLTMETER HOOK TO CAR BATTERY CRANK CAR UP.BATTERY VOLTAGE SHOULD BE 13.5 TO 14.5 VOLTS. WITH NEW CABLES. IF NOT CHECK ALTERNATOR FIELD WIRES FOR DAMAGE ALSO ALTERNATOR POSITIVE WIRE FOR DAMAGE.
Posted on May 30, 2010
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