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Nissan 96 n15 pulsar immobiliser reset

Check engine light is on when key is switched on,and car wont start..i believe the immobiliser was kicked in when I had to replace the ignition and key

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

pal03246
  • 723 Answers

SOURCE: 96 NISSAN MAXIMA SHUTS OFF UPON DECELLERATION OR WHEN STOPPED

Check to see if the floor on the passanger side is wet. If so, than your A/C drain clogged up and your ECM/computer got flodded by water causing all sorts of funky stuff happening. Right next to the gas pedal is a small cover attached to the computer. It has a clip in it. Remove the clip and tug on the cover. Look at the top of the computer to see if its rusted up. Remove the other side cover also, which is on passanger side floor next to your left foot(if you sitting in passenger seat). and check other side of ECM/computer. Check the ECM for rust on top.
If ALL of that looks OK, than I would replace the switch,(since you are telling me that the key got VERY hot) that is mounted on the back of the ignition cylinder. Its a white round switch that failes after a while especially car beeing 1996, just think about how many times that ignition has been turned ON/OFF since 1996. The mechanism in the switch failes, causing starting issues and funky electrical issues.
Does the car have a remote starter installed?? Or didi it have one in the past?? I have seen companies that install them cause some damage to the harnesses on the switch that is mounted to the back of the igniton cylinder. They use "scotch locks" to connect the remote starter and after a while the connection corrode and cause problems too.
Anyways, check the computer for rust first. Than I would install that switch on back of the igniton. You can buy the switch seperately. You dont need the whole ignition assembly/switch only. Switch is pretty cheap (approx $50 ?). Try that and post results. I would feel pretty good about the switch beeing faulty. I have ssen them fail in the past and that's where your power comes into for the starter circuit.(key getting HOT, switch shorting out, making the key hot and starting the car without the key)

Posted on Jul 27, 2008

ghost4548
  • 776 Answers

SOURCE: 2008 Hyundai i30. 2.0 litre petrol.

Interesting problem.. since not US spec. Is there a 'remote keyless (fob)' programmed for this vehicle? That's the only way to DE-arm the immobilizer (anti-theft) feature (based on US specs). Unless you have this key fob (keyless entry remote... which must also be programmed for this vehicle), the only other way is wait 5 minutes with the existing key in the ignition, then it should start (US specs). You will still need to have an 'ACTIVE' keyless remote programmed for this vehicle... otherwise, you'll continue to run into this problem.

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

  • 521 Answers

SOURCE: IMMOBILISER

The key has a micro chip in it that transmits a signal/code to the anti-theft module/immobilizer. There have been cases where the immobiler/module has forgotten wht code it should respond to or the chip in the key has gone bad. Either way the vehicle will have to go to the dealer for repair as they will have to reprogram the immobilizer for the new key and vice versa depending on which of the 2 items went bad. Hope this helps u

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

  • 157 Answers

SOURCE: how to replace a nissan pulsar N15 GA15 air flow

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Posted on Nov 02, 2009

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  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 98 nissan primera sri with the factory

your nissan primera nats alarm is connected to the factory fitted stereo. check your stereo fuse as these are the symtoms i have done this before

Posted on Nov 08, 2009

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