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1994 chevy caprice ls ac condenser evaporator accumulator compresser and tubes replaced. the new system holds a charge. low side is cold high side hot. ac blowing warm air. how can I fix this?

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 625 Answers

SOURCE: AC problem

is the compressor turning on? when you turn thwe a/c? on,
and also locate the low side line on engine compartment and feel if is cold, if it is, then your blend door system is not working,
the blend door does control the cold and hot air coming to engine.

Posted on Jul 02, 2008

jagjeffery
  • 318 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Chevy Silverado AC is blowing warm air on passenger side.

You have dual zones that are controlled by temperature actuators the passenger side has lost its memory or has gone bad you can put it in self programming by disconnecting the battery for ten minutes then hook it back up start the truck turn the temperature control on but do not touch any other controls let it go thru the self programming for about 6 to 7 minutes then select your temperature you want if it still does not work properly you may have a bad actuator or a bad connection at the actuator

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

roniecon
  • 6826 Answers

SOURCE: 94 civic 1.5 air condition won't blow cold,

Are you using gauges?What are the pressures?And are the cooling fans coming on when ac is on?

Posted on May 17, 2010

Testimonial: "Changed compressor and cool as can be in Arizona"

SOURCE: 2000 lincoln LS AC blowing hot air i've replaced t...

You need a scanner to diagnose,not a code reader.

The DATC Module ( Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module) is a possible

Posted on May 24, 2010

roniecon
  • 6826 Answers

SOURCE: Where do I find the AC Orifice tube

The orifice tube will be on the small line joining the evaporator,the ac line will be swelled where the orifice tube is at,you may not can see it,but use needle nose pliers to remove it,and to install it.

Posted on Jun 28, 2010

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AC diagnosis help 2005 mercury Montego


You should check for a clogged orifice tube. It'll be located right before the evaporator inside the refrigerant line. Also, your desiccant in the receiver/dryer is probably saturated but since you are opening the system anyway, you should probably replace it anyway.

Mar 19, 2017 | 2007 Mercury Montego AWD Sedan

1 Answer

Where is the low side port for ac charge located on engine for 2001 mountaineer


4.0L , 5.0L : Back near the firewall (Evaporator) above the accumulator/drier. The line will be cold /low pressure port.
Near radiator (Condenser) is hot/high pressure port

Be careful, if unsure do not risk it. If the system is leaking this will be a very temporary fix and probably needs the service of an experienced auto AC person.

Mar 20, 2013 | 2001 Mercury Mountaineer

1 Answer

Is the low pressure side of 92 F-150 on the condenser or near the compressor.


LOW PRESSURE SIDE IS THE SUCTION CHARGE SIDE WILL BE FROM AC COMPRESSOR REFRIGERANT LINE TO THE ACCUMULATOR OR DRIER TO THE EVAPORATOR IN THE FIRE WALL THE AC COMPRESSOR LINE TO THE CONDENSOR IS THE HIGH PRESSURE SIDE YOUR DISCHARGE SIDE. DONT DONT TRY CHARGING AC SYSTEM AT THE HIGH PRESSURE SIDE. CHARGE AT THE LOW PRESSURE SIDE.

Aug 18, 2011 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Where can I find the low port to recharge my AC on my 2000 chevy blazer


The low pressure port on an AC system is between the evaporator and the compressor. The evaporator is the cooling coil in the dash. I believe you will find an accumulator just on the "out" side of the evaporator. The accumulator is a round aluminum container about 4 in. in diameter and about 7 in tall. It has a tube from the evaporator going in near the top, a tube/hose going from the accum. to the compressor and probably a pressure switch and a charging port. All these items are located around the top of the accumulator. That charging port is the low pressure, (suction side of the compressor). Don't over charge. Use just enough to get cold air from the system. I doubt this system has a sight glass in the tube near the condensor, but if it does, put in just enough refrigerant to where you no longer see bubles going past the sight glass. If this is a cronic leak, you must have the leak repaired. It is aginst the law to recharge AC systems without repairing the leak.

Thanks for using FixYa. Good luck.

May 31, 2011 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Location of low pressure port of a/c system on a 96 ford thunderbird


Here is a system overview. The low side port is #5 in the picture. Hopw it helps ya.. Cobra
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Item Part Number Description 1 19972 A/C Compressor to Condenser Discharge Line 2 19E762 A/C Charge Port Valve(High Side) 3 19D594 A/C Pressure Cut-Off Switch 4 19D742 Evaporator to Compressor Suction Line 5 19E762 A/C Charge Port Valve(Low Side) 6 19E561 A/C Cycling Switch 7 19860 A/C Evaporator Core 8 19C836 Suction Accumulator/Drier 9 19835 Condenser to Evaporator Tube 10 19D734 A/C Manifold and Tube 11 19703 A/C Compressor 12 19712 A/C Condenser Core

Jun 12, 2010 | 1996 Ford Thunderbird LX

2 Answers

Where is the orphis located in the ac unit in a 98 chevrolet cavalier


Actually the orifice tube on a 98 Cavalier is up front,passenger side of AC condenser in the small line!! (#7 below)
PS If it's plugged or has deb're in it the system needs complete flush and the Accumulator Drier replaced!~!~!~!(# 1 Below)

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Mar 07, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier

3 Answers

I have a 1994 chevy c1500 with a 305 motor. when i turn on the A/C the clutch engages/disengages continuously but no cold air. Any ideas?


Your A/C system may be running low on R134a.
To diagnose problems, an A/C manifold gauge set is needed to read high and low side pressure readings. Avoid adding refrigerant with a simple charging kit like the ones sold at parts stores. Don’t add any stop leak, this can cause problems in the compressor, expansion valve or condenser.
First, on a 134A system the high and low side service ports are different sizes. AC gauge sets have color coded hoses, the blue color coded hose has a connection that fits on the low side service port and the red hose has a connection that will only fit onto the high side. The yellow hose won’t hook up to anything if just checking the readings; it can be used to connect to a vacuum pump or attached to a refrigerant can or tank.
Normal readings on high and low side with AC OFF (static pressure) – Depends on outside temperature, but normally is between 80-105 PSI
Normal low side reading with AC on high speed and MAX & engine at 800-1000 RPM’s – Ranges from 25-35 PSI – Note that on many Chrysler products a normal reading on the low side may be 15-25 PSI
Normal high side reading ranges from 200-350 PSI
Don’t assume that if adding little Freon is good that adding a lot is better! Overcharging just a little can decrease the performance of the system and possibly damage the compressor.
With the AC on the coldest setting, use a thermometer in a middle vent. Normal vent temperature readings will vary depending on the (ambient) outside temp. The vent temperature should range from around 42-55 degrees in my experience. If normal gauge readings are obtained and the vent air is cold – STOP don’t overcharge the system. The only proper way to remove refrigerant is with a AC recovery machine so if this is being done at home I can’t emphasize enough not to over charge the system. And actually the best way to insure the proper charge is in a system, is to use an AC machine to recover the freon and then evacuate and recharge the system with the correct amount. Most cars have the specified amount on a decal under the hood.
Both low and high side readings are lower than normal, this indicates a cars AC system is low on refrigerant and is under-charged.
If both low and high side readings are too high, this indicates an overcharged system – too much refrigerant. This also can indicate that the condenser fan is not working, is too slow or the car is overheating and heat is transferring from the radiator to the condenser.
When the low side goes so low that it’s reading shows it is in a vacuum, the most likely cause is a bad expansion valve or blocked orifice tube. Another possibility is a restricted condenser. Blocked condensers are not as common as they used to be but if a compressor fails and comes apart inside the remnants can end up in the condenser causing it to restrict the flow of refrigerant.
When the compressor clutch is definitely engaged and the low side is high and the high side is low, the most likely cause is that the compressor is failing – it is not pumping sufficiently. Rarely an AC clutch could be slipping but usually this will be accompanied with a squeal or chirp. Also be sure not to overlook the obvious, like a loose belt
Note: The line going from the compressor to the condenser is the discharge line – it is normal for it to be very hot to the touch. The other line going from the drier or accumulator to the compressor is normally colder. The liquid line can be hot up to the point an orifice tube is in place. Just remember that LOW Pressure = COLD and HIGH Pressure = HOT.
If you do want to recharge the system your self, make sure you do not over charge and use the thermometer at the vent and when it's cold enough, turn off the valve from the recharge line and disconnect from the low pressure service port. Good luck

Nov 04, 2009 | 1994 Chevrolet C1500

2 Answers

''does a new radiator need refrigerant added to it''


You need to replace the condensor, then take it to a shop to have the a/c system evacuated and recharged to purge moisture because the system was opened. That will cost around $150. You do not need to replace the receiver/dryer/suction accumulator even though they will tell you that you do.
go to car-part.com to find prices of condensor from salvage yards. Page with asterisk on it is the lowest priced part.

--------------------------------------
The Refrigerant Cycle
During stabilized conditions (air conditioning system shutdown), the refrigerant is in a vaporized state and pressures are equal throughout the system. When the A/C compressor (19703) is in operation it increases pressure on the refrigerant vapor, raising its temperature. The high-pressure and high-temperature vapor is then released into the top of the A/C condenser core (19712).
The A/C condenser core, being close to ambient temperature, causes the refrigerant vapor to condense into a liquid when heat is removed from the refrigerant by ambient air passing over the fins and tubing. The now liquid refrigerant, still at high pressure, exits from the bottom of the A/C condenser core and enters the inlet side of the A/C evaporator core orifice (19D990).
The A/C evaporator core orifice is the restriction in the refrigerant system that creates the high pressure buildup in the A/C evaporator core (19860) and separates the high and low pressure sides of the A/C system. As the liquid refrigerant leaves this restriction, its pressure and boiling point are reduced.
The liquid refrigerant is now at its lowest pressure and temperature. As it passes through the A/C evaporator core, it absorbs heat from the passenger compartment airflow passing over the plate/fin sections of the A/C evaporator core. This addition of heat causes the refrigerant to boil (convert to gas). The now cooler passenger compartment air can no longer support the same humidity level of the warmer air and this excess moisture condenses on the exterior of the evaporator coils and fins and drains outside the vehicle.
The suction accumulator/drier (19C836) is designed to remove moisture from the refrigerant and to prevent any liquid refrigerant that may not have been vaporized in the A/C evaporator core from reaching the A/C compressor. The A/C compressor is designed to pump refrigerant vapor only, as liquid refrigerant will not compress and can damage the A/C compressor.
The refrigerant cycle is now repeated with the A/C compressor again increasing the pressure and temperature of the refrigerant.
The A/C cycling switch (19E561) interrupts compressor operation before the external temperature of the A/C evaporator core gets low enough to cause the condensed water vapor (excess humidity) to turn to ice. It does this by monitoring low side line pressure. It is known that a refrigerant pressure of approximately 210 kPa (30 psi) will yield an operating temperature of 0°C (32°F). The A/C cycling switch controls system operation in an effort to maintain this temperature.
The high side line pressure is also monitored so that A/C compressor operation can be interrupted if system pressure becomes too high.
The A/C compressor pressure relief valve (19D644) will open and vent refrigerant to relieve unusually high system pressure.
Clutch Cycling Orifice Tube Type Refrigerant System 75cc8eb.gif
Item Part Number Description 1 19E762 A/C charge valve port (low side) 2 19E561 A/C cycling switch 3 19C836 Suction accumulator/drier 4 19703 A/C compressor 5 19D644 A/C compressor pressure relief valve 6 19D594 A/C pressure cut-off switch 7 19E762 A/C charge valve port (high side) 8 19712 A/C condenser core 9 19D990 A/C evaporator core orifice 10 19860 A/C evaporator core 11 — Low pressure vapor 12 — High pressure vapor 13 — Low pressure liquid 14 — High pressure liquid

  1. Connect the R-134a A/C Refrigerant Center to the low- and high-pressure service gauge port valves.
  2. Evacuate the system until the low-pressure gauge reads at least 99.4 kPa (29.5 in-Hg) (vacuum) and as close as 101.1 kPa (30 in-Hg) as possible. Continue to operate the vacuum pump for a minimum of 45 minutes.
  3. Turn off the evacuation pump. Observe the low-pressure gauge for five minutes to make sure that the system vacuum is held. If vacuum is not held for five minutes, leak-test the system, service the leaks, and evacuate the system again.
  4. Correctly oil match the system to verify that the correct amount of refrigerant oil is present in the system. For additional information, refer to Refrigerant Oil Adding in this section.
  5. Charge the system with the specified weight of refrigerant and refrigerant oil.
  6. When no more refrigerant is being drawn into the system, start the engine and select MAX A/C operation. Set the blower motor speed to maximum and allow the remaining refrigerant to be drawn into the system. Continue to add refrigerant into the system until the specified weight of R-134a has been added. Close the charging cylinder valve and allow the system to pull any remaining refrigerant from the hose. When the suction pressure drops to approximately 207 kPa (30 psi), close the charging hose valve.

May 14, 2009 | 1995 Nissan Maxima

2 Answers

Recharge ac


it's on the side of the suction accumulator. here's illustration. please rate. thanks.

b7e9f79.gif
Item Part Number Description 1 19D594 A/C pressure cutoff switch 2 19E762 A/C charge valve port (high side) 3 19C836 Suction accumulator 4 19E561 A/C cycling switch 5 19E762 A/C charge valve port (low side) 6 19835 Condenser to evaporator tube 7 19860 A/C evaporator core 8 19D734 A/C manifold and tube 9 19703 A/C compressor 10 19712 A/C condenser core 11 19D644 A/C compressor pressure relief valve

May 04, 2009 | 2000 Ford Expedition

2 Answers

AC system's lubrication amount?


The oil spec is PAG 150--68.00 ounces. General Motors issues Bulletin # 02-01-39-004B replacing PAG 150 oil with a lower viscocity oil. Thus, now indicates PAG 46 (P46D) oil for those vehicles.
There is a high pressure side and low pressure side to the system. The high vapor=compressor to the condensor. Low side vapor=compressor to evaporator. Your system will use R134a freon.

The A/C is a sealed system and when the compressor fails it circulates debris throughout the A/C system and contaminates it. Before replacing the compressor several other A/C parts have to be checked or changed.
Typically, the condenser should be flushed to remove any debris or contaminated compressor oil. Use approved flushing agents (aresol or liquid pour types), that evaporate quickly and don't leave any residue in the system. You will also need access to 'DRY' compressed air or nitrogen to push the flush through the system. Nitrogen (an inert gas), is best because it doesn't introduce moisture into the system. You need to do this a couple of times.
Accumulator or receiver drier should be replaced when you are replacing your A/C compressor. If don't replace your accumulator or drier you will probably void your compressor warranty. It's virtually mandintory to replace the orifice tube or expansion valve. The openings are usually about .050" and are quickly plugged. Be sure to clean all hose assemblies internally prior to installing your new compressor. Not doing this could contaminate your new compressor. Flush both ways until the flush agent exiting is clean, you will need to remove the hose assemblies to do this.
After you have cleaned, inspected and replaced all the parts, you connect the vacuum pump and remove the air from the system. Make sure it holds pressure. Then recharge the system with the proper freon and oil to the system specified levels.

No matter why you are replacing the A/C compressor there is a lot of other related work that has to be completed before you install the new compressor. Hope this helps, good luck.

Apr 29, 2009 | 1994 GMC Suburban

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