If you didn't mark the flywheel before removing to have it resurfaced is there a way to tell which way it goes back on or does it matter

There should have been a dowel pin in crank flange so the flywheel would go back in the same spot. Is it a new flywheel? Was it balanced? There are no timing marks on the flywheel. Does the gear on the starter line up with the flywheel teeth? Does the engine turn over? Would like to help.

If you are getting that amount of slippage, it is unlikely that a simple clutch adjustment will cure it. Your clutch pedal should have roughly 1" of free play from the top of the clutch pedal, and absolutely no more than 2" free play.
If you have zero free play, it "may" be possible to eliminate the slippage by adjusting the clutch, but you would have to be very lucky to get off that easy.

The slippage means that your clutch disc is most likely worn too thin and possibly glazed, as well as glazing of the flywheel and pressure plate friction surfaces. When the pedal is released, the clutch engages by sandwiching the clutch disc between the flywheel on one side and the clutch pressure plate on the other side. Strong springs in the pressure plate keep the clutch disc tightly sandwiched between the flywheel & pressure plate. Pushing on the clutch pedal releases this tension/pressure.

It's never "just a flywheel". That mechanic is bogus. All 3 parts are affected by worn or slipping clutch. Usually you don't need a new flywheel, as resurfacing it is usually fine & the normal procedure.
But you will need to replace the clutch disc and pressure plate anytime the flywheel is resurfaced.

Resurfacing a flywheel is similar to resurfacing brake rotors on a brake pad replacement (brake job).
Naturally the transmission has to be removed to get access to the clutch components, which is really the biggest part of the job.

Here's a pic of the basic clutch components:
Please rate via the helpful button if this helped in answering your question, or feel free to ask if you need further explanation.

I suspect your clutch and pressure plate needs to be replaced,when you depress your pedal to disengage your transmission from your flywheel the pressure plate is not engaging enough to seperate the two it still has a little contact on your flywheel so it is going to be difficult to change gears and your relief is going to be shorter.If you change it out always remember buy a clutch kit with a clutch plate and pressure plate and pilot bushing and slave cylinder all in one kit.Always remove your flywheel and get it resurfaced that is a must ,the flywheels surface will become uneven over time and minimize your surface area on your disc,by getting it resurfaced it will assure your disc has 100% of the flywheel surface for hook up and when you depress your clutch it will clear your flywheel good luck

Remove the Rear Drive Shaft
Remove the Transfer case if 4x4
Disconnect the Shift
Disconnect the Clutch Secondary
Floor Jack under the Transmission
Remove the Cross Member
Remove Bell House Bolts
Pull straight Back
Lower Down
6 Pressure Plate Bolts
Remove 6 Flywheel Bolts

*(Recommend replacing Rear Main Seal)

Resurface Flywheel
Reassemble

get a service manual on CD over on ebay for about 5 bucks. jack car way up, drop the drive shaft, disconnect shifter and clutch linkage, unbolt the bell housing from the transmission and remove, unbolt pressure plate and take off flywheel, have flywheel resurfaced and reinstall, install new clutch and pressure plate, replace throwout bearing, put transmission and bell housing back in, connect shifter linkage and clutch cable or hydraulic, put drive shaft back in and you are done.

You'll need to remove the driveshaft, and transmission crossmember, and then the gearbox and bellhousing from the motor. The clutch disc is between the flywheel and pressure plate. Remove the pressure plate and remove the clutch. You should get the flywheel resurfaced, especially if there are heat spots on it. Also change the throw-out bearing.

The fly wheel needs resurfacing.

Hi:
If you already have your transmission removed enough to see that your flywheel is burned and needs resurfaced, you have come along way. To remove the flywheel, you just need to remove the series of bolts that are arranged in a circle, nearer to the center of the flywheel. You need to hold the flywheel still to break them free, and most auto parts stores will sell or loan you a tool to do this.
If you need step by step instructions on your truck, a good investment is a subsription to: www.alldatadiy.com For About $20 you can have everything there is to know about your specific vehicle, and it is a big help to me when I use them.

ITS NOT A HARD JOB. BUT YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL.YOU ARE WORKING UNDER A CAR. BESURE TO USE JACK STANDS .YOU NEED A REPAIR MANUAL.IT SHOW YOU HOW TO REMOVE TRANSMISSION.YOU HAVE TO SUPPORT ENGINE WHEN MOVING TRANNY.REBUILT KITS.WILL HAVE ALL GASKETS SEALS AND BEARINGS.BUT MAJOR PARTS YOU HAVE TO BUY THEM SEPERATE.LIKE SHIFT FORK COUNTERSHAFT AND SYNCHRONIZERS.NOW THE CLUTCH KIT IT WILL HAVE CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE AND CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING.BESURE WHEN YOU BUY KIT MAKE SURE CHECK IT.MAKE SURE IT HAS EVERYTHING YOU NEED.

It sounds to me like the clutch is slipping or it was not properly adjusted. I would take it back and tell them to take it out for a drive around the block. If they still refuse to do anything about it, take it to another garage and get their opinion. Better yet, get a written estimate. Then take it back to the garage that put the clutch in and tell them either fix the problem for free or you are going to take it elsewhere to get it fixed and sue them in small claims court. I do know that when i replaced my clutch, you need to have about a 100 mile break in. But still, the gears should not be loose and it should shudder. If anything, a new clutch will grab hard with very little play untill it is broke in.