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Spongy brakes i have a 1989 landcrusier troopy hj75,i have replaced the brake master cylinder,the load proportioning valve,the rear brakes shoes, rebuilt the front and rear calliper's and cylinders. Bled the system countless times and still getting a spongy brake pedal.im at my wits end,any help please Rob

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2005 f150 spongy brakes

it sounds like your still not getting all the air out of your lines. it helps to have a brake bleeder but they are expensive, it also could be that the gasket inside the master cylinder is inverted even if it is a new master cylinder this could be the case, ive had four bad remanned ones in a row, before i got a good one... hope i could help

Posted on Mar 24, 2009

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SOURCE: Spongy brakes 1996 Chevy C1500

You can adjust the shoes outward on the rear by removing the wheels and drums, then above the axle but below the wheel cylinder you will see an arm that is horizontal, pushing both of the shoes outwards. There should be an adjustment nut that you can turn to extend the arm to push the shoes out.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

co7196
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SOURCE: bad brakes on gmc suburban,

Gravity bleed your brakes starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. No pweddle pumping. I Fill M/C and leave cover off. Then open the bleeder and watch what is coming out. Uou can see bubbles. When the fluid drips steady and without bubbles, cole and do the same to the other three. Don't let the master cykinder get low because thr fluid level helps move the fluid and air through the lines.Periodically tap the break lone with your wrench to keep everything moving.. When sll bleeders drip clean and steady. Make sore your rear brakes are adjusted to barely touch the drum. Then top off the master cylinder, cap it and give yourself a "break". :)

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

  • 64 Answers

SOURCE: Fiat Uno Pacer - Brake Booster not assist braking

it could be that the master cylinder is bad or the brake booster is bad also check the vacum hose going to the brake booster if it has a hole in it it will lose pressure and make the engine lose rpms

Posted on Aug 23, 2009

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: i replaced a master cylinder on a 2001 taurus and

I take it you have a rebuilt master cylinder. (It can happen to new ones also!) It is quite possible that the 2nd piston seal in the master cylinder is either installed incorrectly or was damaged during installation by who ever assembled it. You can install a PLUG in the front piston outlet hole and try it again. If it is still spongy.... the replacement Master cylinder is bad. (my therory... when in doubt change it out... when it comes to master cylinders)

Take the cylinder back and get another one. (warranty!!!) I have had this happen a few times over the years. Just one of those misfortunes of the task.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly


Posted on Mar 07, 2010

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Why is it that my Mitsubishi mighty max's rear brake grips first before the front brake?


there is a proportioning valve to the rear brakes that only allows them to operate fully under load or heavy braking. If it is faulty then full brakes will be applied to the rear which will allow them to lock up first.
Check pad/shoe condition and rear drum/shoe adjustment as well

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Rear brakes lock when press brake pedal.


get is serviced.

its stuck in , low bed (loaded) mode. the lever is or parts in side

stuck in full load mode.

and guess what, if you bypass the valve, what will happen

the rear brake will lock, going fast and if on wet or worse roads. 10x worse. its there for a reason. to lower the brake pressure with no pickup bed load. or not heavy trailer tongue weight.



ever consider the rear brakes are bad. first. and not the valve.



service the rear shoes and slaves.

then check the bypass.



Does the truck still have the height sensing brake line bracket and line connected into the prop valve?



http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f53/bad-proportioning-valve-any-ideas-1127468/#post10505224







here is the valve.

sold at , JEEP.



http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/JEEP/1988/COMANCHE/VALVE--Proportioning--VALVE--Proportioning--ECE-198789--1989--Except-France--Italy--1990--KDX--KDX-After-3-1-93--KDX-Up-to-3-1-93/4520728/52009114.html



Chysler p/n

52009114 ; 52003118



google that and find them for $75

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It could be your break line is clogged with air bubbles or your brake pads/shoes are contaminated. If not that I'd say you need to replace your master cylinder. You can buy a used master cylinder online for pretty cheap.

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