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Replace rear wheel cylinder

I have isuzu npr. the vac light comes on and the pump runs if you pump the brakes. ive have the booster replaced and the master cylinder. still have to pump brakes to get pedal. what could be causing this?

Posted by Anonymous on

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: Ford Bronco II spongy brake pedal

if the booster is bad the pedal would be hard sounds like the e-brake is stuck take off the drums and make sure the arms are all the way back then did you adjust the rear brakes after changing the shoes

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

  • 64 Answers

SOURCE: Fiat Uno Pacer - Brake Booster not assist braking

it could be that the master cylinder is bad or the brake booster is bad also check the vacum hose going to the brake booster if it has a hole in it it will lose pressure and make the engine lose rpms

Posted on Aug 23, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 75797 Answers

SOURCE: brake pedal dropping to floor

do u have the antilock brake bleeding tool? if not you will need to have the dealer bleed the brakes, the ABS control valve must be electricaly held open to bleed the brakes there of course is a special tool for this.

Posted on Oct 18, 2009

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  • 474 Answers

SOURCE: my 94 c1500 has very

You still have air in the system. You will have to bleed more. I had to bleed a quart of brake fluid out of each wheel to get good brakes on my 1996 GMC.

Posted on Jul 29, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I Hanve 1996 GMC 1500

did you try a brake booster ?

Posted on Oct 10, 2010

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1 Answer

2003 IZUZU NPR brake booster lite comes on, hard pedal, floats to floor


check for a faulty check valve in the tanks or vacuum hose . make sure that you have bleed all the air out of the system and the brakes have been adjusted correctly

Jan 21, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Had brakes when parked, replaced front rotors, pads, turned rotors, replaced brake lines no rear brakes replaced hubs,shoes wheel cyc, lines master cylinder, booster and bleed.bypassed abs system. could...


Sounds like you have an air lock in your distribution block or it could be a bad distribution block all together. Sometimes you can tap it lightly and the air lock will bleed out. Also check your vacuum booster. If it is real hard to press the brake petal down, with the motor running, the vacuum booster diaphragm is blown, or there is a vacuum leak in the line to the booster. Pull the vacuum line off the booster with the engine running to see if there is vacuum to the booster, this will likely make the engine stall out if the booster is working properly. A little trick I do when bleeding my brakes is take about 16 inches of clear tubing that fits the bleeder, then get a quart Mason jar stick the tubing that is attached to the bleeder into the jar, then add about and inch of brake fluid to the jar and start pumping the petal. Always keep an eye on the jar and your master cylinder as to not let the master cylinder run out, or the jar to overflow. Hope this helps, good luck. If I think of something else I'll do another post.

Jun 10, 2014 | 2000 Ford Expedition

2 Answers

Loosing brake fluid bad; no apparent leaks anywhere.


If there is no leakage at any place is safe for the liquid is lost from themaster cylinder to the booster

Mar 01, 2011 | 2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

2000 isuzu npr brake booster servo unit replaced brake booster light still on on dash no brakes?


if you have already replaced the booster, it is probable that the vacuum pump is the culprit.

Apr 10, 2010 | 1995 Isuzu Pickup

1 Answer

Install new brake pads and rotors all 4 wheels. Replaced front 2 calipers. Bled brakes. New clean fluid coming out. pedal is still soft and goes to floor. 200 Seebring.


Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
Are you losing Brake Fluid and can't find a noticeable leak? Then there is a good posibility that the rear seal in the Master Cylinder is leaking and the Fluid is going into the Brake Booster - which is the large wheel shaped drum located on the fire wall. In this case both the Brake Booster and the Master Cylinder will have to be removed and replaced. The Booster contains seals that Brake Fluid is very caustic to and will ruin these seals- causing future failures.
If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.

Dec 31, 2009 | 2002 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

Experienceing loss of power to brakes


1. What is the Brake Fluid Level?
2. Are you losing any Brake fluid at all? Are there any puddles or noticeable wetness on the ground or on the tires/wheels? With vehicle parked, the reservoir filled (overfilled), and engine running: pump the brakes and check on the ground and back sides (inside portions) of the wheels. Look for any brake fluid leaks.
3. Leaks from Calipers usually means a leak from the caliper piston. The rubber seals will be wet.
Leaks from Drums usually means a leak from the wheel cylinder.
4. In any case of leaks from the wheels - replace the calliper OR wheel cylinder.
For caliper leaks: change the brake pads, and clean the rotors with brake cleaner.
For drum leaks: clean the drum and brake hardware with brake cleaner, and replace the shoes.
5. If no leak is detected from the wheel area's: check under the Master Cylinder for wetness indicating a possible leak.
6. If no leak can be found: you MAY have a rear seal leak in the Master Cylinder which is pumping Brake Fluid into the Brake Booster (that large disk looking thing attached to the fire wall, attached to the Master Cylinder in front).
a. Use a large drip/catch pan under the Van in the area on the Master Cylinder.
b. Disconnect the brake lines from the Master Cylinder using a flair wrench.
c. Remove the two nuts (12 or 13mm?) attaching the Master Cylinder to the Brake Booster. If you have been using a lot of fluid, and have found no leaks, here is a good possibilty that all that brake fluid has collected in the Booster; so when you detach the Master Cylinder from the Brake Booster, all that fluid will come rushing out!
7. If there is Brake Fluid inside the Brake Booster: there is no cleaning that out. Brake Fluid is very caustic to the seals inside the Booster and should be replaced.
8. Of course the Master Cylinder will also have to be replaced.
9. After replacing the Master Cylinder/Brake Booster - make sure you get all that spilled brake fluid off the engine compartment area parts! I use a brake cleaner, then mild soap and then water to rinse. Clean any Brake Fluid off Paint imediatley as it will quickly dissolves finishes and paint.
10. If no leak is detected and the Booster is clear, there may be problems with the Booster One-Way Valve. This is attached to the outside of the Booster and has a hose from an "advance" connected to it. This maybe malfunctioning where you are losing power. Replace this first before deciding to replace the whole booster (in cases of NON-LEAKS ONLY). If that did not work, there may be inner seals inside the Booster that have failed. That means a new Booster.
11. In any of the above cases: Make sure you bleed the Master Cylinder correctly and bleed the brakes (at each affected wheel) correctly. Any air in the brake lines will decrease your braking proficiency or could result in brake failure.

Let me know if this helped or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

Dec 10, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Caravan

3 Answers

I have a brake problem with my 1989 dodge daytona


Check the large vac line running to the booster, also, check the check valve. Lastly, you might have only needed a new boaster.

Jul 24, 2009 | 1989 Dodge Daytona

1 Answer

Brake fluid drains too fast


If you don't see any sign at the four wheels, pull the rear drums and check the wheel cylinders, it is being sucked into the engine through a bad master cylinder and through the power brake booster.

Jun 07, 2009 | 1994 Isuzu Pickup

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