Need to find the horn relay location on my 1998 Winnebago Adventurer with Ford F53 chassis
R&R steering wheel and horn contact. Ohm check horn pad switch and horn contact. Both r OK. Ohm checked the 3 wire harness that runs down the steering column. All 3 wires r OK. Tested both horns directly with 12v. Both r OK. Disconnected 8 pin connector above horns to main harness. Tested with 12v. Wire is good to both horns. Need to find the horn relay to do further testing. Cannot locate in my chassis manual or on Winnebago's online wiring diagrams.
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The horn system consists of a single horn, a horn relay located in the underhood fuse block, and driver controlled horn switch in the steering wheel. The horn system is designed to provide the driver with an audible warning to signal pedestrians, other drivers, etc.
Voltage is supplied to the horn relay coil and contacts at all times through a 10 amp HORN fuse, located in the underhood fuse block. When the driver pushes the horn pad, driver air bag module, the circuit completes and energizes the horn relay coil. This causes the horn relay contact to close. When the contact closes, current travels to the horn and the horn emits an audible warning.
The horn relay primary receives + full time and is actuated by receiving ground (-) from the horn button. Check ground continuity at the horn button (at the steering wheel) to make sure it is working first (most likely culprit). If the horn button is working, check to see if the horn relay is working (second most likely culprit). To test the horn relay, provide chassis or battery ground to the (-) primary terminal of the horn relay and see if the horn honks. If it does, that will tell you that the problem is in the wiring between the steering wheel and the relay, most likely a disconnected wire at the steering column.
The only other components in the system are the fuse for the horn circuit (if you have 12v at the horn relay, that is fine), and the horn itself. My bet is on the horn button pad itself.
There should be a fuse for the horns. Your owner's manual would give the location. It may be in the fuse/relay block under the hood. Is there another fuse panel under the driver's side dash? There is also a horn relay in the horn circuit. This should be in the under hood relay block, but they only rarely are the problem. The most common problem with no horn is the horn switch under the horn pad on the steering wheel. The metal contact strips often get bent out of shape. You would have to pull the horn pad off to check. The pad may be held on by plastic clips, or maybe Phillips head screws from the back of steering wheel. If that part looks good, you would probably need a voltmeter or test light to start checking for power along the circuit. Sometimes just finding the horns themselves can be difficult. Maybe behind the grill, or seen from inside a fender well (behind the fender inner liner), or mounted to a lower radiator support...somewhere on the front of car.
First go to horn, its in the right side (passenger side) very front behind bumper. Turn wheel to the right, remove inner fender well, locate horn. Check to see if you have 12V there when the horn is activated to ensure its not just a horn. If there is 12V and ground and horn doesn't sound, you'll need a new horn. If voltage is good then back track to the horn relay, it should be under the hood electrical center (some earlier models were under the dash below steering wheel. If you press on the horn in the steering wheel, you should hear it click to locate. If not check the black wire going up the steering column, when jumpered to ground and horn sounds then the problem is inside the steering wheel, horn ring or contacts on the pad are faulty.
I have a 1977 Cadillac Seville and it does the same thing, and when the outside temperature drops below 65 degrees the horn will sound continuously until either the horn relay or the horn fuse is removed.
The problem is in the horn pad on the steering wheel, and the contact plates inside of the horn pad are too close together (a manufacturing defect) and when the temperature drops down to a certain degree then the horn pad will contract and cause the metal contact plates inside of the horn pad to touch and make contact, and it is same thing as if you were pushing on the horn pad.
I have also heard of the exact opposite happening and when the temperature gets too hot the horn pad will expand and cause the metal contact plates to touch and make contact and activating the horn.
The horn relay is located toward the front of the engine. It is located just behind the radiator overflow reservoir and attached to the inner fender next to two other relays. It is the only one without a plastic cover over the top of it. FYI, our Crown Vic horn didn't blow, and the cruise didn't work. I changed the relay and still no horn. I decided to check the horns themselves. Found wires disconnected from terminals. Touched wire to horn terminal and horn blew incessantly. (previous owner had disconnected horn rather than diagnose why) Pulled the horn "button" from steering wheel and disconnected the wire leads and horn quit. Disassembled the "button" assembly. Foam had degraded over time between the contacts. (Ford has discontinued this part). Cleaned and replaced foam with Scotch foam mounting squares with holes punched out over contacts (2 layers thick). Re-assembled and viola! Horn and cruise control both work! Relay was bad as was horn button.
In most cases this problem is caused by the rotating ribbon circuit contact under the steering wheel having a broken filament, the part is known as a clock spring contact, u will need to properly disarm the airbag and remove the steering wheel to access the part. WARNING: Failure to disarm the airbag system can result in an unexpected Airbag deployment and possible serious personnel injury disconnect the battery 30 minutes prior to start of work.
The horn relay IS NOT located in a box toward the front of the engine. It is located just behind the radiator overflow reservoir and attached to the inner fender next to two other relays. It is the only one without a plastic cover over the top of it. FYI, our Crown Vic horn didn't blow, and the cruise didn't work. I changed the relay and still no horn. I decided to check the horns themselves. Found wires disconnected from terminals. Touched wire to horn terminal and horn blew incessantly. (previous owner had disconnected horn rather than diagnose why) Pulled the horn "button" from steering wheel and disconnected the wire leads and horn quit. Disassembled the "button" assembly. Foam had degraded over time between the contacts. (Ford has discontinued this part). Cleaned and replaced foam with Scotch foam mounting squares with holes punched out over contacts (2 layers thick). Re-assembled and viola! Horn and cruise control both work! Relay was bad as was horn button.
a very common cause of this problem is the steering wheel mounted horn button looses it's connection to the horn circuit due to a defective ribbon rotating contact under the steering wheel, the special clock spring shaped ribbon wiring harness is what allows you to turn the wheel and still have a connection to all steering wheel buttons and the airbag, to check this listen for a click when u press the horn button with the engine off, it will be faint but if u listen closely u will hear it, if u don't hear it u will ned to replace the Clock-Spring rotating contact under the steering wheel. I am a Ford factory trained tech with 20 years of new car dealer experience.
There is something called a clock spring in the column that is used for the airbag, horn and cruise control buttons. This clock spring if messed with will cause a/bag light to come on and possibly cause a/bag failure if there is a collision. DON"T mess with the wiring in the column. Run new wires in to the horn or install an a/market horn.