Question about 2007 Toyota Hilux 2.7

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Spongy brakes I have had a chronic brake problem on my vehicle,I have changed the master cylinder and the brake booster but i still can't seem to have firm pressure on the brake pedal.I have to pump the pedal about five times to get some pressure.I have had tha system bled a zillion times but nothing I do seems to help.

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  • 39 Answers

Brake lines could be leaking somewhere.

Posted on Jul 28, 2013

Testimonial: "Hi Nate,checked the system thoroughly,absolutely no leaks."

  • studdmuff14
    studdmuff14 Aug 03, 2013

    Is your brake light on?

  • Xavier Chesang Aug 07, 2013

    No brake lights

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Brake pedal is hard when vehicle is not running,but is soft when the 2005GMC Envoy is running.changed the brakes and rotors?


This sounds like a vacuum or hydrolic issue. If The pedal is spongy soft while its running it indicates air in the brake line, or faulty master cylinder, or faulty brake booster. A faulty master cylinder would get hard after a few pumps of the pedal. Since the pedal is hard when it is shut down, it makes me lean toward the brake booster.

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2001 Silverado 2500 HD Why Rear brakes don't work after I installed new hydro-boost power booster, master cylinder, calipers, and pads. I bled master cylinder before installing, and brakes beginn


Hello Patricia,

Have you checked the master brake cylinder reservoir for brake fluid loss?

I don't suspect the master cylinder as you have replaced it... but am more suspect of a leaking brake line or fitting which should have
been discovered when you had the system bled.

The only time I ever had a rear brake problem with a 2500 series Chevrolet was due to seized rear brake caliper guide pins...as your calipers are also new that is not your problem.

If your brake pedal feels spongy and travels to the floor board you have air in the system, a brake fluid leak or a failure in the power steering system, such as a broken hose, broken power steering pump drive belt, or failed pump, would result in a loss of pressure to both the hydro-boost and steering.

Find more information here:

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if you can see brake fluid around the booster then yes it is most definitely not right, but sometimes these can fail without any fluid noticable, the visible fluid could mean that the brake master cylinder is failing & this will have an adverse affect on the booster power & performance, check your brake master cylinder first as this is a much simpler & easier repair than the brake booster & can be done at home on a flat drive or or street even, a Haynes manual is invaluable for the home mechanic & i recommend you get one as soon as you can as this will help you diagnose the problems with your vehicle before going to a mechanic/garage, if it is the brake booster at fault then i suggest you go to your local scrapper/breakers yard armed with tools & the Haynes/Chilton's Manual (Depending on which side of the pond you are from) & remove the brake booster from a now deceased Toyota 4Runner & remove the brake booster & master cylinder in one should only cost you a few Quid or Bucks & replace the part once your vehicle is back at home, once the parts have been replaced the brake system will need to be bled so that there is no air in the brake lines, this can be easily done with two people at home, Jack up one corner, remove that wheel & then just crack off the bleed nipple of the brake line Putting a bit of clear hose over the nipple to catch the excess brake fluid in a jug etc & have a friend push down slowly on the pedal, when only fluid comes out with no air then the system is bled for that wheel, Check the level in the brake master cylinder & repeat the process for the other 3 corners/wheels Once done your brake pedal should fell firm & Not spongy, If you get a spongy feeling when braking after this then there is still air in the brake lines & the system needs to be bled again, of course if you have done it right then your brakes should feel firm underfoot. Please don't forget to rate me, regards, Paul.

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check or adjust brake pedal, check brake booster or replace new one, check pedal return spring and bushing, check all wheel cylinder or replace, check brake shoe or brake pad, check brake fluid or replace,.

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I have replaced the brakes, rotors, calipers and master cylinder on a 2003 dodge durango, i bench bleed the master cylinder, and have spent 2 days now bleeding the brakes, only to end up with a spongy...


sorry you went thru all of that... those vehicles have an issue with power brake boosters. one more thing to replace...Or, you still have air in the system...

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1 Answer

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could be the master but NOT the booster
the booster increases pedal effort and when it goes you have a HARD pedal

...go to your parts store and ask for a brake booster bleeder kit and bench bleed the master on the car...if the pedal is still spongy then YES its the master

However, more often than not, a vehicle with ABS this year, that had the pistons pushed in during service suffer from ab HSU failure'

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So long as the brake booster is working, test it by turning on the engine, press the brake pedal all the way down, then shut off engine keeping your foot on the brake pedal, if the pedal comes up slightly pushing against your foot then the booster IS working.

Did you BLEED the brakes??????

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Hi there. If you have determined that the brake system doesnt have any leaks in the lines or at the calipers or brake cylinders, I would start by checking for vaccum to the brake booster first. There should be a large vaccum hose going from the power booster down to the top back of the engine. If this got unhooked or broken, your brakes will feel like old manual brakes rather than power. Make sure you have good suction by unhooking one end of this line with the engine running and place your hand over it to see if it has suction. GT would be the sporty version of the car and usualy has an emblem either on the fender or rear bumper saying GT. If you dont see this you probably have the L series.

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Mr. Clark:
It would be extraordinary for a technician to recommend a booster and a master cylinder with no previous mention from you of a possible problem in this area. In other words, the technician had no business looking at the m/cyl or the booster, unless you told him that your braking was deficient.
Here is what REALLY happened: Somewhere, I'd bet, your brake light came on, and somebody "topped off" the master cylinder, to shut the light off. Now, please understand that the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir DROPS PROPORTIONALLY to the wear of the brake pads. When the tech replaced the front brake pads, he obviously had to squeeze the caliper pistons into the housings to allow the insertion of the new pads. This action forced the brake fluid from the now-compressed caliper pistons BACK into the master cylinder, and it sprayed out from under the cap, coating the cylinder and the booster. Tell that repair service that you do NOT need a booster and a master cylinder, THEY caused the problem with the fluid being everywhere. I am confident that I just saved you a significent amount of money that you do NOT need to spend. Have a great day.

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