Question about Cars & Trucks
Hi I have a EP91, 4E-Fe Toyota Starlet with a A242L 4 speed auto transmission. I have an issue where the car vibrates ALOT when in D or R when sitting still with my foot on the brake. as soon as i add acceleration it stops. i have checked the mounts and they are all good. cleaned the throttle body, sensors and idle adjuster, removed and replaced the intake manifold and gaskets. sparkplugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor. The engine is not misfiring and there are no error codes and the timing is fine. I have noticed the car pulls alot with no acceleration in both D and R so i'm thinking the next step is to replace the trans fluid and filter, adjusting the bands while i'm down there, however i cannot find a trans manual for this car... does anybody know the correct procedure for this including torque and how many turns to back off?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
My problem was solved when I repaired my 4 wd activation dash switch. The switch was contacting on 2WD & 4HI at the same time. The front differential activation is vacuum activated possibly creating a tug of war that didn't actually engage it but drained off vacuum from the engine? A theory at best but stumbbled across it because I knew the switch wasn't working properly I repaired it and low and behold rough idle disappeared and all is good for 3 weeks running.
Posted on Dec 10, 2008
Wow you have replaced a lot of stuff. Lets go back to the Fuel pump. When you replaced it did you replace the hose between the pump and the sending unit. These are common for splitting. Have you hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to check what pressure you have? It should be real close to 13 psi and should raise to at least 18 or 19 when you pinch off the return line.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
Have you heard of Noid lights? You unplug the fuel injector and plug these in and they will light up if the injector is getting power. This might give you a better hint. There are also lights that go inbetween the spark plug and wire. Between these two items you may be able to narrow down the problem to a specific system. I believe that your car has a coil pack. Some of these engines have problems with the crank trigger. I believe it is located on the back side of the motor. If you decide to change it, be careful. I have heard of them breaking into two pieces and becoming a big problem.
Posted on Jul 21, 2009
I would begin by replacing the filter if its not new, 2 possibility of issue, faulty shifting module or defective transmission rebuilt. just because it has been rebuilt does not mean the individual work on it did a good job. the less cost effective way is to locate used modulator from ebay or junk yard, if that does not rectified the issue than more likely it will be the tranny. the bad part is that I dont know of a company offer a bench test for the tranny modulator.
Posted on Nov 22, 2009
Generally, what causes C-4's and C-6's to be slugish going into gear, is the seals on the servo pistons are getting hard. The servo pistons are what apply pressure on the clutch packs, when the seals get hard the oil can blow past the piston and the clutch won't engage. It's worse when the the trany is cold and usualy gets better as the oil gets warm. You could try some transmission conditioner, the cheep stuff works as good as the high dollar stuff. Don't rev the engine to try to get it to go into gear, the clutch is trying to engage and you will burn the clutch up pack. If the clutches were replaced 3k miles ago why didn't they put seals in it at the same time?
Posted on Nov 24, 2009
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