Question about 2001 Pontiac Sunfire
Replaced the chain as the tensioner went to pieces. I installed the new stuff and it ran great for 2 weeks. It died slowly started knocking and pinging and losing power. Took the cover back off to discover that the new chain wasn't riding over the tensioner evenly. The chain was running off the edge of the tensioner.only on one end . My question is can I shim one side of tensioner? This seems to look like the only solution. And would this also cause car to lose all power? I think so, but another opinion would be good
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Car dies while driving
First off, check your battery terminals and posts for corrosion or any other cause of a poor connection. If your connection to the battery is cutting out/back on rapidly it would cause exactly those symptoms. also inspect the battery cables end to end for poor connections corrosion or breaks/tears in the insulating coating. if that yields no answers it is probably a sensor for the ecu or the fuel delivery system. good luck!
Posted on Jan 23, 2009
SOURCE: Car not running on all cylinders
the first thing that comes to mind is ignition system faults. Are the spark plug wires connected properly, in the right firing order? Has work been done on the distributer, or the engine head, recently? Ignition timing can be 180 degrees out, and the engine will still run, sometimes. If it is not the ignition system, the next most likely culprit is the head gasket, which seals the head to the block of the engine. If this gasket is breached seriously, it can cause a cylinder(s) not to fire. Is there water in the oil, as evidenced by a thick, white foam? Is there oil in the coolant? Either of these are symptoms of a leaking head gasket.
Basically, one cylinder isnt firing for one of a number of reasons. The most common cause is an igntion fault. This will cause the engine to feel and sound "lumpy", and the power would be greatly reduced. The best way to find the cylinder which is responsible is quite simple but care must be taken. Firstly if you hate electric shocks as much as I do, find a proper pair of electricians insulated pliers, and even some decent rubber gloves if you can aswell. Start the engine, and one at a time, use the pliers to remove a lead from the top of one spark plug, if the engine almost stops, or gets worse in any way, it is not that piston which isnt firing. Repeat the proccess, one at a time, you will know which piston ISNT firing when you remove the plug lead, and there is no change in the engine sound, this is your defective cylinder. Its just a case then of looking at the condition of the spark plug and asessing the cause of the misfire before carrying out repairs. BEWARE:- THE LEADS WHICH CONNECT TO THE SPARK PLUGS CARRY SEVERAL THOUSANDS OF VOLTS - HENCE RUBBER GLOVES AND INSULATED PLIERS
Posted on Mar 05, 2009
Your car is equipped with a system called PASSKEY standard on all GM cars and light trucks, try the following procedure to reset the system, the battery being dead will trigger the system.
PASSKEY LOCKOUT RESET GM CARS 1999 UP
1) Put the key in the ignition and turn to the "ON" position. Leave it that way for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes turn the key and take it out. Repeat this process (2) more times (3 times, 30 minutes total) This should reset the passlock system to recognize your key.
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
There are many other possibilities that are to be checked, other then timing chain and chain tensioner:---
1) Loose timing chain, bad timing chain tensioner.
2) Bad lifter.
3) Bent valve.
4) Improper timing (piston striking valve).
5) Bad wrist pin.
6) Spinning or corroded rod bearing.
7) Spinning or corroded main bearing.
8) Excessive piston to bore clearance.
9) Excessive bearing to journal clearance, main or rod.
10) Failing oil pump
ALSO it could be a loose flywheel/flexplate bolt.could be lifter knock, or it could be Injector tick. injectors are more noticeable at idle, and lifter knock is all the time loud, unless it's doing it from oil pressure drop, and it might go away with RPM.As you mentioned in your case, that noise disappears at high rpms. ---------- This troubleshooting will help, to locate exact fault paret causing this noise.Thanks.Helpmech.
Posted on Apr 25, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 11, 2015 | Cars & Trucks
Mar 27, 2013 | 2001 Chrysler Concorde
Jan 17, 2011 | 2001 Ford Escape
Mar 04, 2010 | 1996 Mercury Grand Marquis
Jul 31, 2009 | 2000 Dodge Durango
Oct 31, 2008 | 1997 Hyundai Sonata
26 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: