Question about Dodge Caravan

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Engine shudder 2005 Dodge Caravan 3.8l engine. Infrequent shudder between 60-70. Back off speed and it goes away and all is normal, then happens again months later

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  • Daniel Jul 26, 2013

    thanks-already tried balancing very infrequent shudder

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  • 352 Answers

TIRE BALANCE ISSUE? HAVE CHECKED AND BALANCED AS TO ELIMINATE THIS AS A POSSIBILITY

Posted on Jul 26, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2005 Dodge caravan dashboard indicator lights and dials went haywire

2005 Caravan I had the same problem with my van gauges bounceing, headlights not comeing on when the switch was turned on.I took a day and downloaded a wireing diagram from dodge and studyed it.GROUND PROBLEM dodge have several ground conections to the body then there is one MAIN BODY GROUND.This is most likely your problem it is easy for any back yard mechanic to fix.This main body ground is located under your battery box.You will have to remove the battery and then the battery box becarful of the battery sensor that is mounted in the bottom of the box.Also there is a hose that you will have to disconnect but dont try to remove it from the box remove it from above the box.After you get the battery and box out you will see a threaded stud with a black wire conected to it this will be rusted because of no antioxide grease applyed.You will have to remove the nut and wire connector clean both and the stud with wire brush or sandpaper.Put antioxide grease or if nothing else some vaseline to keep it from coroading again.put back together and see if this dosent fix your problem.It has been six weeks for me now.good luck.dont forget that neg battery terminal is the first one to disconect and the last to reconect.

Posted on Sep 26, 2008

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SOURCE: 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan - EGR code

I replaced the EGR Valve ($80 after tax), problem solved, vanruns great now. Now my problem is that I can't get the light to turn off.

Posted on Oct 06, 2008

  • 32 Answers

SOURCE: heater won't get hot on 2005 dodge caravan

there could be an air lock in the system, pluged heator core, a bad thermostate or control modual. try bleeding the air out through the bleeder screew if there is no heat after that have the control modual tested if its okay try having the cooling system flushed then if it still doesnt heat intall new termostate

Posted on Oct 22, 2008

motor1258
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SOURCE: 2002 caravan, heater problems

That was a common complaint a few years back, due to the fact that the heater core is a little too much higher than the engine, which requires that extra push it gets when engine RPM's increase. One thing I did do on my Caravan was remove my hoses to the heater core, and use a small external pump with hoses to circulate C.L.R. through my core for a while, then let it sit with CLR in the core overnight.Next day I circulated it through again, both ways by reversing hoses, and then re-attached hoses, bled air out of system, and notice quite an improvement in heat at idle. Once cleaned out, the heater core allowed coolant flow through it better at idle. If your stumped by explanation, take it to an automotive shop, or a Rad shop, and get a quote on flushing that core out for you. I recommend the CLR, but it might be too time consuming for you , but a flush will probably show some noticeable improvement.

Posted on Nov 23, 2008

SOURCE: Dodge 2005 Grand Caravan water Pump replacement

JUST COMPLETED THIS JOB TODAY. MAKE SURE THE ENGINE HAS COOLED DOWN . IT TOOK APPROX 2 1/2 HRS. DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE POST ON THE BATTERY. JACK UP PASSENGER SIDE FRONT AND SUPPORT ON JACK STANDS. REMOVE PASS. FROUNT TIRE. DRAIN RADIATOR INTO CONTAINER FOR PROPER DISPOSAL OR REUSE. USING FLOOR JACK PROVIDE SLIGHT TENSION ON OIL PAN WITH A SHORT 2 X 4 WOOD PIECE TO PROTECT OIL PAN. LOOSEN 3 ENGINE MOUNT BOLTS ON PASS. SIDE OF ENGINE COMPARTMENT. ALLOW APPROX 1" BETWEEN SHOULDER OF BOLTS AND MOUNT. LOWER ENGINE UNTILL BOLTS ARE SET ONTO MOUNT. REMOVE ENGINE SPLASH SHIELD INSIDE WHEEL WELL OF REMOVED TIRE. LOCATE WATER PUMP AND LOOSEN 3 PULLEY MOUNTING BOLTS (THIS IS WHILE BELT IS ON PULLEY) REMOVE SURPENTINE BELT AND CONTINUE TO FULLY REMOVE THE PUMP PULLEY. IT WONT COME OUT AS THE PUMP & PULLEY HAVE TO COME OUT TOGEATHER. REMOVE 5 WATER PUMP BOLTS AND CAREFULLY WORK WATER PUMP OUT BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND VEHICLE FRAME. CLEAN ALL MATING/GASKET SURFACES AND BOLTS. USING A SMALL AMOUNT OF TACKY SEALENT TO INSURE THE NEW WATER PUMP SEAL STAYS IN PLACE, THE INSTALL IS PRITTY MUCH THE REVERSAL OF REMOVAL.

GOOD LUCK, REMEMBER TO TIGHTEN ALL BOLTS TO MFR SPECS AND BLEED THE AIR OUT OF THE COOLANT AS REQUIRED.

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

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