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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I am currently going thru this nightmare with this ford piece of ****. I would like to stick a bail out up a ford execs ***. Try going 12 volts to the compressor, if you get noise, and it is running, then it is a relay, which is located behind the pass headlight, in the front of the pass wheel housing. My current problem is that I can get the compressor running thru 12 volts, vehicle raises and is level, with no air leaks as the height holds. I believe I have either a defective harness or another bad relay. There are 2 little shock type adjusters, one is in the middle mounted to the rear axel, the other in the front, mounted to the drivers side upper c/arm. they pop off easily. pop one off, prp it so it senses a load and see if the vehicle raises. the reverse will induce a lowering. any other quesions, email me 2 email@example.com
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
beats me, as they are a non servicable item(they either work or not)but to lock up solid???(normally the corner with the problem just hops about,bounces.)the original/first owner did have the transit blocks removed from inside the rear springs??
just a thought if you are not the first owner has someone fitted adjustable shockers?
Posted on Apr 29, 2010
best advice i can give is to make a coca can gasket for the ERG valve so it blocks the hole off ,then it will run ok promise ,you do not this device and it will pass the mot without it ,nobody will even know its blocked off
Posted on Dec 26, 2010
The two symptoms you posted may or may not be related. I'd check the driveshaft and axle joints for any looseness or binding. (do this with the rear wheels hanging free in neutral, front wheels blocked)
The chattering may be an axle joint or the posi unit in the differential. Most times replacing the diff lube, (using posi additive) then making tight left and right circles will free the clutch packs.
Difficult to diagnose noises online. If you have any problems finding the source, have an experienced tech look at it,,,You still have the option of actually doing the work itself.
Posted on May 28, 2011
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May 12, 2016 | Peugeot Cars & Trucks
following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any
electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.
The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM or ECM,ECU), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems. Also engine mechanical problems can and do cause many drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other symptoms.
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