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Engine knock and I flush the motor and spray B12 chemtool down the push rods it still knocking the oil don't come up through the push rods on that one side where the knock is coming from gmc 2005 truck 1500

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: ENGINE KNOCK 81 GMC 1500 (350)

IN 1981 GM MADE SOME SOFT CAMS,ALOT OF PEOPLE WERE COMPLAINING OF THIS CAM & LIFTER REPLACEMANT SOLVES THE PROMBLEM.AS FOR THE KNOCKING TAKE IT TO A PRO.

Posted on Jan 15, 2009

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SOURCE: 2003 GMC Sierra Knock sensor and oil pressure??

the knock sensors are located below the intake plenum,or,upper intake manifold as some call it, they screw into the lower intake, the front one is sensor 1, the rear is sensor 2. it is wise to change both if you have some miles.since you are going to be buying a gasket set to do this job.the sensors are cheaper than the gaskets.

Posted on Jun 12, 2009

Murphybanton
  • 2004 Answers

SOURCE: 2008 infiniti g37 motor is knocking has 16500 miles on it.

Please change the oil now at the Nissan garage and watch the vehicle closely.

$100 is not so much like getting your car totally knocked.

Good luck and rate this solution/ suggestion.

Posted on Aug 25, 2009

  • 834 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 2002 ram 1500 with 4.7 magnum truck

There are several reasons why you would hear a loud knock from the engine, and the knock will usually be either in the top end or in the lower or bottom end of the engine.

The first thing that should be done is to drain the engine oil, and then pour the oil filter into a pan where you can see it, and if there is a lot of metal flakes, or a fine cloud of brass floating in the engine oil, you will not want to waste the time or the money trying to repair that engine by dropping the oil pan and replacing the piston rod bearings, it will only be a very temporary patch at best, that is if the patch even lasts for a day.

If you do find metal flakes in the engine oil and oil filter, the piston rod bearings will not be the only bearings in the engine that will need to be replaced, and the crankshaft main bearings can only be replaced by removing the engine and placing it upside-down on a good engine stand. The biggest problem would be that even if you did successfully replace the piston rod and crankshaft main bearings, it would only take one piece of metal flake that was left over in the engine block to find its way to one of your new bearings and then it will take no time at all before that engine will be right back where you started, and that is how important just the cleaning process is in repairing or replacing internal engine components.

If you do not find any metal in the engine oil or oil filter, then you should attempt to find the actual cause of the knock before you decide how to repair the engine, and you will have to remove the engine oil pan to inspect the rod bearings, and if you do remove the engine oil pan make sure that when you inspect the rod bearings that you only do so one at a time because you can not mix up the rod caps, and be very sure that when you remove a rod cap that you do replace it the same way that it came off, and if you turn around the rod cap and install it the wrong way or scratch the crankshaft bearing surface the rod bearing will fail.

If you can hear the knocking louder from under the vehicle then the most likely causes for a lower end engine knock are a damaged piston, worn out piston rod bearings, a broken piston rod, a broken flex-plate, and sometimes loose torque converter to flex-plate bolts, and the only parts that you can really check out without opening up the engine would be a broken flex-plate, or for any loose torque converter to flex-plate bolts.

If you can hear the knocking more from the top of the engine, then the most likely causes for an upper engine knock would be a faulty lifter, or broken rocker arm, or a broken valve spring allowing the valve to contact the piston, and it will require the removal of the valve covers and possibly the intake manifold to inspect for the problem.

If you have any doubts then it would be a good idea to consider a good used engine that you can hear run before you buy it, or a rebuilt engine for that vehicle.

I hope that this information will help you out and save you some time and a lot of money.

Posted on Jun 07, 2010

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: engine knocking noise in 2000 saab 9-3 SE?

It's a common problem with these cars i am actually fixing mine as of now. That car is all about oil pressure and when it is low you'll start to get a tap and or what sounds like a knock due to the lifters not having enough pressure. Try taking your oil pan off and check your oil pick up line going from the oil pan to the turbo. A lot of times it gets a lot of sludge build up and makes the pressure little to none. If that looks clear check the slump inside the oil pan and see if that has sludge build up. Well hope this helped

Posted on Jul 23, 2011

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1 Answer

Have a hard knocking noise in engine when pushing on accelerator just change oil only 410 hours had since new 400 ranger 4x4


Hopefully it's not a connecting rod loose? Describe the vehicle,etc.
Knocking can come from belt tensioner especially when cold. don-ohio (:^)

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99 FORD RANGER 2.5 ADDED CAN OF CHEMTOOL B-12 INTO 1/4 TANK OF GAS ENGINE STARTED KNOCKING AND QUIT


Perhaps you should have put more gas or less
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Oil coming out air filter


Depending on the type of service that was done; This can occur when the Computer is not reset (if the car is fitted with one). B12 chemtool is an injector cleaning tool, but remember that it will clean the Fuel Tank, try to clean the fuel filter, the fuel pump, and all of the fuel lines. This can cause the Fuel Filter to be filled up with rubbish from the Fuel Tank, Fuel lines, and the Fuel Pump. This B12 chemtool's job is to carry all of this rubbish through the system and even remove carbon from combiston chamber, and push it all down the exhaust and out of the car.

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Knocking noise and becomes louder every time I accelerate! What do I need to fix


SOUND'S LIKE YOU COULD HAVE A BAD ROD OR CRANK OR LIFTER.TRY THIS CHECK YOUR WATER AND OIL NOW START THE ENGINE IF IT IS A FAST KNOCKING HOLD YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE AND PUT THE CARE IN GEAR IF IT QUEITS YOU HAVE BAD ROD SERIOUS MOTOR REPAIR INTERNAL.DO THE SAME THING AGAIN AND IF IT IS MORE A THUMPING NOISE AND A SLOW DEEP KNOCK THEN WITH THE ENGINE IDLEING PUT IT IN GEAR HOLD THE BRAKE GIVE IT A LITTLE GAS AND IF THE MOTOR KNOCK'S GET'S QUEIT IT'S POSSIBLY THE CRANKSHAFT ANOTHER INTERNAL PROBLEM MOTOR OVERHAUL IF IT'S A FAST RATTLING IT'S PROBABLY A LIFTER STUCK OR BLEED DOWN DIRTY OIL OR A WEAK OIL PUMP ALL ARE BAD NEWS SORRY.GOOD LUCK

Jul 14, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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1995 toyota corolla knocking in motor after no oil


Somehow or another (missing or loosened oil pan drain bolt, excessive oil usage, etc), you lost oil and therefore, oil pressure. Running a car with little or no oil, even for a few seconds, most likely ruined your engine. The knocking sound means you probably threw a rod. Unfortuneately, the only fix is a major engine overhaul or a new engine. Sorry for the bad news.

Jul 15, 2012 | 1995 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

89 gmc c2500 5.7 tbi had oil changed at well known franchise place. They also recommended flush out, let run 15 min with stuff he put in oil. Then drained, added oil and was about 1/2 mile away when motor...


Hi, this is not the first time i've heard of this problem..I have repaired engines with rod knock, crank bearing knock and piston slap after these treatments. These products can clean so much carbon and varnish from the engine that it brings the real internal problems to the surface. Try using thicker oil

Jul 25, 2011 | 1985 GMC C2500

2 Answers

Top engine knock when first start engine. And knocking when 3/4 quart low oil. lht661@juno.com e-mail


It sounds like a weak lifter. When the oil is down 1/2 quart, add 1/2 of dextron ll instead of oil. This will help fill the lifter so it won't collapse again. Also look down the hole when you take of the oil cap and make sure it isn't filled with engine sludge. If you see some, get it cleaned out by a garage.

Mar 01, 2011 | Ford Windstar Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

KNOCKING ENGINE


Hi. There are two main issues that will cause the engine to knock. The first will be the oil pump. If the oil pump is failing, or damaged, this will produce a low oil pressure state. Low oil pressure will cause the internals to not receive the necessary lubrication needed for optimal performance. This low pressure state will cause the rod bearings to ware, thus, producing this knocking noise. This will be accompanied by a low pressure, or illuminated oil light. The next issue will be worn, or damaged rod bearings. These vital bearings can fail if the bearing clearance is excessive, or worn. They will, also, fail if the oil supply is not sufficient. This inspection will require you to drain all oil and coolant, and the dropping of the oil pan, to expose these bearings.Worn, or excessive bearing clearances will cause a knock.

NOTE_ There is another issue that i should warn of. If There is sufficient sludge build up in this engine, due to not changing the oil regularly, or not administering scheduled engine flushing, this will cause the internal oil ports to clog up, thus, inducing poor oil circulation. This will damage the entire engine. If you have not had this engine flushed, i would recommend to schedule this , asap.

Dec 08, 2009 | 1996 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

'99 jeep grand cherokee v6 loose rod in engine


Likely you need more than one (not rod, but rod bearings) In most cases you get knocking noise and low oil pressure as symptoms. If caught early you can do this in-car otherwise engine needs crankshaft and all bearings as well as new pump and system flush.

Jun 20, 2009 | 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

1992 suzuki 413 Knocking noise in motor


No, there is no direct oil feed to the gudgeon pin. There is a cross drilling on the upper half of the bigend of the conrod that allows oil to be sprayed upwards at the right moment to both lubricate and cool the piston. It sounds more like you have piston slap (excessive piston to bore clearance) that will be more pronounced when the engine is cold. It's always a good idea to either let your engine warm up a little before driving, or just drive sedately until it has warmed up.
It could be small end related, but that noise is generally only noticable at that point where the load is least on the piston to conrod connection - ie: at the time where the piston pushing the conrod changes to the conrod pushing the piston, and vice-versa. Don't worry about an oil flush. Sometimes it's the carbon deposits that stop an engine making MORE rattles!

Mar 24, 2009 | 1991 Suzuki Samurai

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