Question about Chevrolet Lumina
Im working on a 97 chevy lumina 3.1 with abs. i replaced front rotors, front calipers, cleaned and adjusted rear drum brakes.I rehomed abs system and bled brakes and master according to snap on scan tool. i have no lines broke, or leaks, I have no brake pedal pressure while running. I can bleed brakes manually so I'm thinking master cylinder is good?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1998 chevy C-1500 brake problems
Try a clean and adjust on the rear shoes, because sometimes when they aren't properly adjusted they won't seem to work properly. Also there is a common "squishy" petal feeling after brake work on most all larger GM's around that year, wich I have run into several times. Try test driving it, and put a couple miles on it, That usualy helps.
Posted on Dec 17, 2008
start by bleeding the master cylinder bleed the line closest to the fire wall, then proceed to the right rear wheel, left rear wheel, right front wheel, and then the left front wheel.
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
Even if the proportioning valve is wide open the rear brakes should not lock up, this is indicative of the front piston not working on the master cylinder, if there was a problem with the abs it would throw a code so to check use two people to do this one to apply the brakes and one to tun the wheel. apply the brake gently while turning it by hand with all 4 wheels off the ground, if the wheels stop at the same time for all for wheels then you have another problem, Do this with the key on engine off in neutral. It sounds like you have a problem with the primary brake shoe the front of drum brake in rear or if disk then the disk brake. Check to see if the Emergency brake cables are not binding if the e-brake is disc the wire cable where the wheel splitter is may be frayed and is keeping the emergency brakes applied and causing this to happen. If this is not explained in a way you can understand post a reply and tell me to clarify if you don't understand what I am saying. The reason I say to do it without running is it will not use the ABS system to mess with your results this will test the mechanical area, thats where i think the problem is. If you let to much fluid drain out it is possible when you started bleeding the brakes if you did not bleed the fronts first you may have damaged the master cylinder piston seal for the disk brakes.
Posted on Dec 01, 2009
Did you adjust the rear shoes out? If the rear drum brakes are out of adjustment they will give you a lot of pedal travel. If the pads are worn have no fear of that U-CLIP brake spring, just change one shoe at a time. Take the spring off one side, change the shoe, put the spring back on the post and do the same to the other shoe, no problem.
Posted on Dec 19, 2009
Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
Posted on Jan 30, 2010
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