Question about 2004 Nissan XTerra

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My car sometimes won't start

My car sometimes won't start. I replaced the battery and the starter and then a couple of days later it wouldnt start. As i was getting the car towed i tired to start it and it did. I appreciate any help with this...

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1 Answer

Can't guess at possible problems
The vehicle has to be tested

Posted on Jul 26, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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elix0411
  • 3530 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 Nissan pulsar automatic, has

Welcome to Fixya

Here's are common issues that your engine might be dealing. This problem would lead to engine not cranking.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Thank you for using Fixya!

Posted on Jun 02, 2011

elshaddai159
  • 1016 Answers

SOURCE: My car was running, then

Hi,
You need to have the cam angle and crankshaft position sensors checked. These are 2 parts which enable the ignition system to fire. If these are ok then check that the rotor in the distributor is turning when you crank the engine.
If it is not turning then you have a cambelt/chain or gear problem which you will need to repair before it will start again.
Hope this helped.
Thanks
Jason

Posted on Jul 20, 2011

  • 733 Answers

SOURCE: I don't know what is

sounds like it may be a bad alternator. jump start the car and if it gets going disconnect the negative battery cable and if it dies you have a bad alternator. It may die as soon as you unplug the jump start cables.

Posted on Jul 28, 2011

Mustgo
  • 2359 Answers

SOURCE: Hi, I have 2003 Nissan

The three areas that need inspection / replacement are
Failing Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) / Cam Angle Sensor Connection and cable to the CAS
Timing belt related issues: Example: worn timing belt + guide jumped timing belt
=====
Check service record for the last timing belt service.
T-Belt change schedule is every 95,000 miles.

Worn T-belt can jump pass on the dual over-head cam tooth and offset timing.

The only method is to open the timing mark inspection cover on the cam and see does both cams line up when cyc 1 is at top dead center (TDC)
=====
Locate the cam sensor on the motor and clean it part cleaner.
Inspect and clean the connector to the sensor.
CAS can fail after 140,000 miles

Posted on Jul 31, 2011

bendarden
  • 984 Answers

SOURCE: 1988 nissan 300zx won't start it gets fire,

Make the FixYa experience better for everyone by voting.

Hi,

My name is Ben and I'm your guru, i.e., mentor, an influential teacher or popular expert: a management guru. - origin from Sanskrit, 'weighty, grave', for today.

As you evaluate my advice and suggestions, there are a few things you must keep in mind:

• I did not diagnose your problem and am therefore only able to evaluate what you tell me. For example, if you ask me a fuse location, that doesn't mean that I can tell you the reason why the fuse blew.
• A thorough diagnostic approach involves the use of technical equipment, such as voltage meters. scanning equipment and other sophisticated devices.
• Lastly, fixing one problem can very easily reveal a problem with something that you might consider unrelated. However, you must keep in mind that I can only evaluate and suggest based on the information that you provide.

Subject: Vehicle will not start
Your description of the problem: 1988 nissan 300zx won't start it gets fire, and fuel, cranks but won't start it has been sitting up for couple years but would't start is why I purchased the car I replaced the plugs, previous owner said he thought it was a fuel problem, but pump works, new f/filter new fuel rail, hose and clamps .

Discussion: Late model vehicles are highly computer controlled to reduce emissions, maximize fuel economy and improve consumer comfort. The various control systems in vehicles are interrelated and controlled by multiple computers that constantly monitor vehicle performance through a myriad of sensors located throughout the vehicle. Based on information received, the computers adjust the vehicle performance through a series of valves, switches and motors. You must use a scanner to unlock the information stored in your car's computer. Your 300Z is OBD -1 compliant.

A Scan Tool can be used to read and erase trouble codes, display, record and play back LIVE diagnostic data and perform other tests allowed by the vehicle maker. Scan tools that cover vehicles 1982 to present are available at your local auto supply dealer.

You don't indicate any diagnostic tests to date. A dealer or your local mechanic will charge $100-$200 to perform a diagnostic scan. However, AutoZone will sell you one for less than $30. Anyone who tells you that a modern vehicle can be diagnosed without a scanner with the problems you have set forth is merely guessing. You car has a computer and memory and probably knows exactly what the problem is. That on-board computer is just waiting for you to ask, "What's wrong". All of the suggestions cited below will require the use of a code scanner or a code reader.

This is how your problem is solved in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system or one of the system sensors that is causing the on-board computer to make adjustments as best it can. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a camshaft position sensor or a bad fuel pressure regulator.

This is where you'll start.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Step 1.
Start with the pre-check:


Do a Thorough Visual Inspection
Do a thorough visual and "hands-on" underhood inspection before starting any diagnostic procedure! You can find the cause of many problems by just looking, thereby saving yourself a lot of time.
• Has the vehicle been serviced
recently? Sometimes things get
reconnected in the wrong place, or
not at all.
• Don't take shortcuts. Inspect hoses
and wiring which may be difficult to
see due to location.
• Inspect the air cleaner and
ductwork for defects.
• Check sensors and actuators for
damage.
• Inspect ignition wires for:
- Damaged terminals.
- Split or cracked spark plug boots
- Splits, cuts or breaks in the ignition
wires and insulation.
• Inspect all vacuum hoses for:
- Correct routing. Refer to vehicle
service manual, or Vehicle Emission
Control Information (VECI)
decal located in the engine compartment.
- Pinches and kinks.
- Splits, cuts or breaks.
• Inspect wiring for:
- Contact with sharp edges.
- Contact with hot surfaces, such as
exhaust manifolds.
- Pinched, burned or chafed insulation.
- Proper routing and connections.
• Check electrical connectors for:
- Corrosion on pins.
- Bent or damaged pins.
- Contacts not properly seated in
housing.
- Bad wire crimps to terminals
-Lastly, check for water in the fuel. Pour in a can of Heet and a bottle of injector cleaner.

Step 2.
Instructions:

Check the entire fuel delivery system.

  • Relieve system pressure. Disconnect the negative battery cable and loosen the gas cap to let pressure drain from the system. Attach a dual tube pressure gauge to the test port and drain fuel into an approved container.
  • Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor vacuum hose. Check for fuel in the line. If there is fuel present in the line, the fuel delivery problem is likely caused by a faulty fuel pump pressure regulator. If there is no fuel in the line, reattach the vacuum hose and continue with the fuel delivery diagnostic.
  • Twist off the fuel pressure test port cap and attach a pressure gauge to the fuel pressure valve if one is not already connected. Reconnect the negative battery cable and turn the key to the first position. Do not start the engine.
  • Check the pressure gauge. It needs to register between 45 and 48 psi. Start the engine and let it idle. Check the gauge again. It needs to register approximately 46 psi. Leave the engine on and remove the vacuum hose. Check the gauge one last time. It needs to register approximately 50 psi. Pressure that's too high indicates a malfunctioning pressure regulator. Low pressure indicates a clogged fuel filter or a broken fuel pump that needs to be replaced.
  • Cut the engine off, relieve system pressure again and remove the negative battery cable.
  • Clean the fuel filter inlet with compressed air to remove any dirt that might come loose and contaminate the fuel supply as you remove the fuel filter. Pull the filter out at the male filter fitting and disconnect the remaining connections to the filter. Remove the filter.
  • Examine the filter for clogs and replace it if necessary. If there are no clogs, the fuel delivery problem is probably caused by a breakdown in the fuel pump itself.


DO NOT RUN OUT AND BUY ANYTHING YET! This was only the opening act.

All of the above systems are monitored by the Engine Control Module/ Powertrain Module (a.k.a. on-board computer). A diagnostic scan retrieves any inform related to the malfunctioning parts and tells you precisely what is wrong. Perform the scan diagnostic now.

Be guided by the scan diagnosis and the problem should be fixed.

Start the car and perform another scan. The reason we rescan and repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, e.g.,if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

I know that the above is wordy but I wanted to do more than just tell you that your problem is complex.

All the best,

Ben

Posted on Sep 22, 2011

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