Question about Cars & Trucks
I am getting a high pitch whine/squeal coming from rear end/drive shaft area. solid drive axle. happens between 50-70k thinking bearing but no sure. ive done u joints.tranny was done recently
Its not just the bearing its the hub...cheap or relatively cheap fix. The hub is about $100-150 depending where you shop and about 1 hour labor unless its heavy duty then a bit more money.
Posted on Jul 25, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Rear Axle Bearing Replacement
That absolutely sounds like an axle (wheel) bearing. Jack up that corner of the truck and grab the top and bottom of the wheel, and shake like crazy. If you have any play whatsoever, it's a sign of a bad bearing (although you could have a bad one and not have any play - it would only mean the bearing isn't worn badly enough to cause looseness in the wheel).
You should be able to remove the axles without opening the diff up. If the axles have c-clips or snap rings on the ends inside the diff, you can usually get the axles out by dismounting them from the hubs and getting them free of all attachment except the diff, and then use a large flat-tip screwdriver as a pry bar. Use it right where the axle body mates to the diff, and lever it while you pull/yank/shake/swear at the axle, and you'll manage to pop the axle out of the diff. Sometimes it takes some time and profanity, but so far it's worked for me everytime.
Posted on Aug 02, 2008
you have to replace bearing and hub as a unit.you have to remove remove brakes and caliper rotor set them aside dont disconnect brake line. get a piece of clothes rack wire to hold brake caliper .do not let it hang by brake hose. you got to remove hub nut. best way to do that is loosen it a litttle while tire still on weight of car keep wheel from turning .
Posted on May 03, 2009
use a cutting wheel and cut through the bearing as far as you can without damaging the drive shaft.Then get a big hammer and a chisel drive the chisel into the cut and break the bearing.
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
remove the rear shaft from a 1990 full size gmc van (g-van) make sure the one you select has the scew on sleeve at the front of the rear section of the shaft
this will be the right lenght
take the rear yolk off your old shaft cut of the ball socket now get the same u-joint your truck calls for and mount the rear yolk (the section of the shaft that bolts to your rear end) to the new shaft
this works ive done it
you eliminate 2 of the 4 u-joints and lighten up your shaft this releives strain on you tranny and rear end when these u-joints and ball bearings fail they cause the vibrations which ruin the rest of your drive train also you gain 10hp
i spent 300 bucks rebuilding the OEM shaft and got no where so for 25 bucks i did this
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
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