I have replaced the distributor, crankshaft sensor, checked the fuel pump relay, it gets spark and fuel, fuel pump kicks on but car still will not start
Check your dissy, you could be out timing... if good, perform fuel pressure test...
Testimonial: "it has plenty of fuel pressure and just replaced the distributor and timing is not off"
If you are getting fuel and spark... A: your timing is out (ignition or physical, check both) B: your not getting enough fuel (IE pressure issue) or C: you dont have compression
For B I am generalizing, you might have fuel in the line but its not making it into the cylinder. Which could be PCM issue
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SOURCE: 1997 Mazda Millenia, Changed Almost Everything, Still No Spark..
check the pcm .get it scan make sure your pcm is working.also check ignition coils.
SOURCE: I have a 1998 mazda protege and i am getting no
the first thing is to scan computer for codes, and also pay attention to the anti theft system, if the key chip is bad car will not start,then check coil,
SOURCE: 97 mazda 626 dx 2.0. manual shift, crank but won't
First check the spark plugs. If your engine cranks normally but will
not start because it has no spark, or it stalls and won't restart because it
has no spark, the problem may be due to any of the following: 1) A bad pickup inside the distributor ,a
stripped distributor drive gear (common problem with plastic
distributor drive gears), broken, loose or corroded wires from the pickup to
the ignition module or PCM. 2) A bad crankshaft position (CKP)
sensor or broken, loose or corroded wires from the sensor to the PCM. 3) A bad ignition module or A bad
ignition coil . 4) A bad rotor or distributor cap (cracks
or carbon tracks that are allowing the spark to short to ground) 5) Faulty ignition switch. ------------ You can also do a test to confirm the
problem .The procedure to do the test is as follows:--- If your
engine has spark plug wires, disconnect one of the plug wires from a spark plug
and place the end of the wire near a metal surface on the engine. Then insert a
small Phillips screwdriver into the end of the wire (the plug boot), or a small
bolt or nail to provide a conductive path. Then crank the engine and look for a
spark to jump from the screwdriver, bolt or nail in the end of the plug wire to
the engine. If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition problem. OR----------- If your engine has a
coil-on-plug ignition system with no plug wires, In that case remove one
of the coils from the spark plug and insert an old spark plug, a spark plug
tester or a screwdriver into the end of the coil. Ground the spark plug or plug
tester to the engine, then crank the engine and look for a spark. No spark
indicates an ignition problem. Possibilities
to be checked in this problem are as follows:-- If the engine has no spark, check for
voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on. If NO
voltage, then problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor,
ignition module or primary wiring circuit). But If there is NO voltage at the coil
itself, then in that case the problem is on the supply side (the ignition
switch or ignition wiring circuit). But if the coil has voltage, then problem
may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor,
hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon tracks inside the
distributor cap or on the rotor.------Getting this all possibilities checked
will point towards the exact faulty part which is to be replaced. But if all this possibilities checked out ok,then yes its the ECU fault.Get the ECU checked and replaced.----------This
should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
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