Question about 1993 Mazda MX-6

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Engine cranks but wont start

I have replaced the distributor, crankshaft sensor, checked the fuel pump relay, it gets spark and fuel, fuel pump kicks on but car still will not start

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  • Contributor
  • 24 Answers

Check your dissy, you could be out timing... if good, perform fuel pressure test...

Posted on Jul 25, 2013

Testimonial: "it has plenty of fuel pressure and just replaced the distributor and timing is not off"

  • Cheeso Jul 25, 2013

    If you are getting fuel and spark... A: your timing is out (ignition or physical, check both) B: your not getting enough fuel (IE pressure issue) or C: you dont have compression

  • Cheeso Jul 25, 2013

    For B I am generalizing, you might have fuel in the line but its not making it into the cylinder. Which could be PCM issue

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1997 Mazda Millenia, Changed Almost Everything, Still No Spark..

check the pcm .get it scan make sure your pcm is working.also check ignition coils.

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

johnjohn2
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SOURCE: I have a 1998 mazda protege and i am getting no

the first thing is to scan computer for codes, and also pay attention to the anti theft system, if the key chip is bad car will not start,then check coil,

Posted on May 20, 2010

  • 5370 Answers

SOURCE: 97 mazda 626 dx 2.0. manual shift, crank but won't

First check the spark plugs.

If your engine cranks normally but will not start because it has no spark, or it stalls and won't restart because it has no spark, the problem may be due to any of the following:

1) A bad pickup inside the distributor ,a stripped distributor drive gear (common problem with plastic distributor drive gears), broken, loose or corroded wires from the pickup to the ignition module or PCM.

2) A bad crankshaft position (CKP) sensor or broken, loose or corroded wires from the sensor to the PCM.

3) A bad ignition module or A bad ignition coil .

4) A bad rotor or distributor cap (cracks or carbon tracks that are allowing the spark to short to ground)

5) Faulty ignition switch.

------------

You can also do a test to confirm the problem .The procedure to do the test is as follows:---

If your engine has spark plug wires, disconnect one of the plug wires from a spark plug and place the end of the wire near a metal surface on the engine. Then insert a small Phillips screwdriver into the end of the wire (the plug boot), or a small bolt or nail to provide a conductive path. Then crank the engine and look for a spark to jump from the screwdriver, bolt or nail in the end of the plug wire to the engine. If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition problem.

OR-----------

If your engine has a coil-on-plug ignition system with no plug wires, In that case remove one of the coils from the spark plug and insert an old spark plug, a spark plug tester or a screwdriver into the end of the coil. Ground the spark plug or plug tester to the engine, then crank the engine and look for a spark. No spark indicates an ignition problem.

Possibilities to be checked in this problem are as follows:--


If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on. If NO voltage, then problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or primary wiring circuit).

But If there is NO voltage at the coil itself, then in that case the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit).

But if the coil has voltage, then problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor.------Getting this all possibilities checked will point towards the exact faulty part which is to be replaced.

But if all this possibilities checked out ok,then yes its the ECU fault.Get the ECU checked and replaced.----------This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Posted on Jan 02, 2011

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