Question about 2005 Kia Sedona

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2005 Kia Sedona A/C Unit/Alternator - Info Needed

I need some good advice. Pls contribute! I had my alternator go out in April this year, 2013. Local garage fixed it by replacing with a refurb. I was very unhappy when I got it back as it was filthy with mechanics grease, I had a broken cover on my window washer fluid, van inspection list, including head lamp check, was all checked off as okay- (when in fact, a lo beam headlight was out when I took it in), and my A/C no longer worked. There was also oil all over the engine, but since I had the oil changed too, I assumed someone spilled a can. And when a puddle of oil began to form under the van in my driveway over the two days it sat there, I hoped it was just dripping off the engine from thir spill. I took my 2005 Kia Sedona LX, back in to them and of course they denied knowing a thing, but they did clean the black grease from my interior, lied about the head lamp inspection and replaced my broken windshield washer cap. Now, they also told me there were no leaks in the van... of course. The A/C, they said, just didn't get reconnected well.. They said the mechanic plugged it back in but didn't get it tight enough.. (It plugs in?) I knew my Van had no leaks prior to alternator going out, and with their assurances, I went home. The puddle kept growing, little by little, and when I visited anyone, they would all call me later to tell me I had a leak I better check out, as I had left a stain in their drive way. Well, yesterday I was driving and all of a sudden, my A/C stopped blowing cold air. It blows warm or hot now (compressor was replace 3 yrs ago). My bad luck? I thought so until this morning when I read someone's post about having too much oil in the A/C lines. There's oil in the A/C? Didn't know that.. I blush. But a light went off. I bet there is no oil in mine.. I bet that is what has been leaking all this time. Now I need some thoughts on this. Could I be right? They unhooked the A/C and most everything else in the front of my Sedona, to get to the alternator. It was a B. Could they have left a line loose somewhere in front that would cause my A/C oil to leak out? And if feasible, what would that cause if it did? Stop blowing cold air maybe? I need some fuel in the form of knowledge to go fight my battle. If anyone knows the complexities of 2005, please explain if this is a possibility.. This is something well beyond my ability to fix and I am a senior on fix income.. I don't mind paying for my repairs, but I'll be darned if if I am going to pay for someone else's mistakes. This is a very well known auto shop, so they should know better. Thanks

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  • yadayada
    yadayada Jul 25, 2013

    Your timing belt should be replaced every 60,000 miles according to the KIA manual. mI suggest you replace it and the water pump at the same time.

  • Bob Weaver Aug 11, 2013

    Thank you!

  • Bob Weaver Aug 28, 2014

    I bought a new Kia. Too expensive to repair the other one and beyond my ability to DIY .. i really hate the new one. Longer, awkward.. Doesnt have the driving stability the other one had, and most importantly, I cannot lock the doors manually from the inside, so my son can trip the locks with the door handle and potentially fall out of car.. No child locks in front seats either.. Scary! Anyone know if there is a fix for that? Can i have manual locks added? Keyless entry.


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  • 887 Answers

Hello. there is only a small amount of oil in the a/c system, about 1/8th of a cup so that's not the leak your seeing. they probably didn't tighten the oil filter good enough or stripped the drain plug. the a/c is probably not working because they unhooked a line and now the seal is leaking. you need to put in some leak detection die into the a/c system to see where its leaking. also you can test the Freon pressure with a gauge you can buy at an auto parts store. Make sure you check the engine oil level so you don't seize the engine from running with no oil.

Posted on Jul 25, 2013

Testimonial: "Thank you. You saved me from making a fool of myself.. When I read the discussion about the oil in AC on fixya this morning, they were saying the freon contained oil and every time someone tried to re-charge it, it released freon, but retained the oil. It was recommended that all the oil be drained/flushed out of the lines and start from scratch. That gave me the impression of a lot of oil. LOL Thank you for contributing your knowledge here, as it really helps those of us willing to learn, but who have no mentors. I will accept your suggestions and let u know what happens. "

  • Bob Weaver Aug 11, 2013

    What a journey I've had. I have looked everywhere for pressure guages to test the freon pressure.. Most auto parts have the guage that comes with the cannister of of freon, but not the set of guages to test the high and low.. I finally found a set, but have to order them.. In mean time, two days after problem beagn, A/C started working again. Not as cold at first.. But as day wore on, colder and colder. It has worked fine since but I am still ordering the guages, as I know someting caused the A/C to quit in the first place. Does anyone have any idea what could cause he A/C to stop blowing cold air suddenly? Blower still worked but blew warm air, and there was a smelly radiator oder that followed the blast of warm air. 2 days later, A/C began working again. Suggestions?? Is still working great, weeks later..


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2002 kia sedona van


There has been known issues with the alternator on several year/versions of this car. If memory serves me right, there was a TSB for the alternator either over or undercharging.The TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) specifies replacing the alternator and re-flashing the PCM.(Powertrain Control Mudule).

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Jul 19, 2008

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: how do i change the spark plugs on 2003 kia sedona van

Hey bobnatboys,
The back 3 spark plugs are a pain to get to.
But I have 2 methods, which perhaps you can put 2 an 2 together to make it easier for yourself.
firstly make sure you buy new ignition leads because they can break when removing them from the spark plugs. The front (cylinders 1, 3, 5) are easy to get to with 3/8" drive sparl plug socket, an extension bar and ratchet. As for the back 3, put the vehicle up on stands at the front, grab the spark plug socket, a short extension bar and the rachet, crawl underneath the front of the car on your back and start swearing. 2 hands are required. First off, remove the plug leads by a small twist then pull. This is where the plug lead might break. Once the ignition leads are out of the way (yes, even though they seem to come up hard against the firewall - by manipulating them they can be removed), drop the plug socket down the hole onto the spark plug, feed the short extension bar into the hole and click it onto the socket, then feed the ratchet up to the extension bar (2 hands) and proceed to loosen/undo the spark plug. If you don't have the socket with the rubber piece in the end of it - to grip onto the plug, then you will need a thin magnet to drag them out with. Reverse the process for installation.
Now the second option is remove the inlet manifold, its an easy procedure, and no need to hoist the car, just remember once the inlet manifold is off, block the holes to prevent things from falling in.

Posted on Apr 08, 2009

  • 91 Answers

SOURCE: kia sedona 2003. does the timing leak oil. a

could be the crankshaft oil seal

Posted on Dec 31, 2009

SOURCE: 2005 Kia Sedona LX - check engine light keeps

Sounds like the dealer has more work to do on the EVAP System. Smoke test the system and check Tech Service Bulletins. You could go to a local garage,it would be cheaper.

Posted on Mar 11, 2010

  • 343 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2005 Kia Spectra EX. Had mechanic look at

The ringing noise could be from a bad alternator, a loose bolt, a loose pulley or gear or possibly a low fluid level in the power steering pump. Try listening for the noise when the engine is idling, then as you rev the motor from 1000 to 1800rpm and also while you are driving on the street and the highway. While the car is in park and running, crank the steering wheel right and/or left until it stops and hold it there to listen for noises from the power steering. The electronic gurgling noise and chattering noises could be failing bearings in one of the pulleys (tensioner, idler,etc. and/or possibly a water pump bearing. Here is a tip for diagnosis- Find 3/8 drive extension that is at least 12" to 18" long. Open the hood and start the car. Take one end of the extension and place it on the alternator body away from any electrical connections, pulleys, belts, etc. and put your ear against the other end and listen for chattering, ringing or any other odd noise. Then do the same to the p/s pump, a/c compressor, etc. BE SURE YOU SAFELY APPLY THIS TECHNIC AND IF YOU DON'T FEEL COMFORTABLE, TAKE IT TO A PROFESSIONAL. SAFETY FIRST.

Posted on May 11, 2010

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There has been known issues with the alternator on several year/versions of this car. If memory serves me right, there was a TSB for the alternator either over or undercharging.The TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) specifies replacing the alternator and re-flashing the PCM.(Powertrain Control Mudule).

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

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