Question about 2005 Kia Sedona
I need some good advice. Pls contribute! I had my alternator go out in April this year, 2013. Local garage fixed it by replacing with a refurb. I was very unhappy when I got it back as it was filthy with mechanics grease, I had a broken cover on my window washer fluid, van inspection list, including head lamp check, was all checked off as okay- (when in fact, a lo beam headlight was out when I took it in), and my A/C no longer worked. There was also oil all over the engine, but since I had the oil changed too, I assumed someone spilled a can. And when a puddle of oil began to form under the van in my driveway over the two days it sat there, I hoped it was just dripping off the engine from thir spill. I took my 2005 Kia Sedona LX, back in to them and of course they denied knowing a thing, but they did clean the black grease from my interior, lied about the head lamp inspection and replaced my broken windshield washer cap. Now, they also told me there were no leaks in the van... of course. The A/C, they said, just didn't get reconnected well.. They said the mechanic plugged it back in but didn't get it tight enough.. (It plugs in?) I knew my Van had no leaks prior to alternator going out, and with their assurances, I went home. The puddle kept growing, little by little, and when I visited anyone, they would all call me later to tell me I had a leak I better check out, as I had left a stain in their drive way. Well, yesterday I was driving and all of a sudden, my A/C stopped blowing cold air. It blows warm or hot now (compressor was replace 3 yrs ago). My bad luck? I thought so until this morning when I read someone's post about having too much oil in the A/C lines. There's oil in the A/C? Didn't know that.. I blush. But a light went off. I bet there is no oil in mine.. I bet that is what has been leaking all this time. Now I need some thoughts on this. Could I be right? They unhooked the A/C and most everything else in the front of my Sedona, to get to the alternator. It was a B. Could they have left a line loose somewhere in front that would cause my A/C oil to leak out? And if feasible, what would that cause if it did? Stop blowing cold air maybe? I need some fuel in the form of knowledge to go fight my battle. If anyone knows the complexities of 2005, please explain if this is a possibility.. This is something well beyond my ability to fix and I am a senior on fix income.. I don't mind paying for my repairs, but I'll be darned if if I am going to pay for someone else's mistakes. This is a very well known auto shop, so they should know better. Thanks
Hello. there is only a small amount of oil in the a/c system, about 1/8th of a cup so that's not the leak your seeing. they probably didn't tighten the oil filter good enough or stripped the drain plug. the a/c is probably not working because they unhooked a line and now the seal is leaking. you need to put in some leak detection die into the a/c system to see where its leaking. also you can test the Freon pressure with a gauge you can buy at an auto parts store. Make sure you check the engine oil level so you don't seize the engine from running with no oil.
Posted on Jul 25, 2013
Testimonial: "Thank you. You saved me from making a fool of myself.. When I read the discussion about the oil in AC on fixya this morning, they were saying the freon contained oil and every time someone tried to re-charge it, it released freon, but retained the oil. It was recommended that all the oil be drained/flushed out of the lines and start from scratch. That gave me the impression of a lot of oil. LOL Thank you for contributing your knowledge here, as it really helps those of us willing to learn, but who have no mentors. I will accept your suggestions and let u know what happens. "
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2002 kia sedona van
There has been known issues with the alternator on several year/versions of this car. If memory serves me right, there was a TSB for the alternator either over or undercharging.The TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) specifies replacing the alternator and re-flashing the PCM.(Powertrain Control Mudule).
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards.
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Posted on Jul 19, 2008
The back 3 spark plugs are a pain to get to.
But I have 2 methods, which perhaps you can put 2 an 2 together to make it easier for yourself.
firstly make sure you buy new ignition leads because they can break when removing them from the spark plugs. The front (cylinders 1, 3, 5) are easy to get to with 3/8" drive sparl plug socket, an extension bar and ratchet. As for the back 3, put the vehicle up on stands at the front, grab the spark plug socket, a short extension bar and the rachet, crawl underneath the front of the car on your back and start swearing. 2 hands are required. First off, remove the plug leads by a small twist then pull. This is where the plug lead might break. Once the ignition leads are out of the way (yes, even though they seem to come up hard against the firewall - by manipulating them they can be removed), drop the plug socket down the hole onto the spark plug, feed the short extension bar into the hole and click it onto the socket, then feed the ratchet up to the extension bar (2 hands) and proceed to loosen/undo the spark plug. If you don't have the socket with the rubber piece in the end of it - to grip onto the plug, then you will need a thin magnet to drag them out with. Reverse the process for installation.
Now the second option is remove the inlet manifold, its an easy procedure, and no need to hoist the car, just remember once the inlet manifold is off, block the holes to prevent things from falling in.
Posted on Apr 08, 2009
Sounds like the dealer has more work to do on the EVAP System. Smoke test the system and check Tech Service Bulletins. You could go to a local garage,it would be cheaper.
Posted on Mar 11, 2010
The ringing noise could be from a bad alternator, a loose bolt, a loose pulley or gear or possibly a low fluid level in the power steering pump. Try listening for the noise when the engine is idling, then as you rev the motor from 1000 to 1800rpm and also while you are driving on the street and the highway. While the car is in park and running, crank the steering wheel right and/or left until it stops and hold it there to listen for noises from the power steering. The electronic gurgling noise and chattering noises could be failing bearings in one of the pulleys (tensioner, idler,etc. and/or possibly a water pump bearing. Here is a tip for diagnosis- Find 3/8 drive extension that is at least 12" to 18" long. Open the hood and start the car. Take one end of the extension and place it on the alternator body away from any electrical connections, pulleys, belts, etc. and put your ear against the other end and listen for chattering, ringing or any other odd noise. Then do the same to the p/s pump, a/c compressor, etc. BE SURE YOU SAFELY APPLY THIS TECHNIC AND IF YOU DON'T FEEL COMFORTABLE, TAKE IT TO A PROFESSIONAL. SAFETY FIRST.
Posted on May 11, 2010
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