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Isuzu kb300 no power above 3000rpm.

We took it to delta they did the diagnostics no fault codes found, tested airmass meter,diesel filters,egr valve,throttle sensor,eng.coolant temp switch,and boost pressure,multiplug on the back of inj.pump,removed and tested the injectors,neutral switch.no power above 3000rpm with a slight jerk up to 3800rpm,it felt like feul starvation and a elektric feul pump was added and no differance.any ideas?

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 321 Answers

SOURCE: buick lesabre nightmare

Need to get a scan tool and look at the data stream while it is running for alot more info.Also any trouble codes.Sounds like initially,the engine isn't getting any fuel.I would have a pressure gauge connected to the fuel rail on the engine,so i could monitor the fuel pressure while all this is going on.Items to look at on the data stream would be timing,what timing is the PCM commanding for the engine.Also,have you checked for continuos power feed to the coils during this no start condition,and fire at the plugs while cranking.You could possibly still have spark,but maybe it is extremely weak?I have seen bad ignition switches cause weird problems before too.Many things power up through the ignition switch,just a thought.Have also seen bad PCM's cause strange problems..38 volts is a little on the low side for GM.Usually see those at,at least .50 and up,and rise steadily while pressing the throttle,up to just under 5.0 volts.Potentiometer with 5 volt supply.Vacuum leak can be checked with engine running at a steady idle speed,spray brake cleaner all around the intake manifold and listen for engine speed change.

Posted on Jul 31, 2008

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  • 255 Answers

SOURCE: buick lesabre no start

Hi you have replaced allmost everything ,(try fuel pump relay)

Posted on Aug 18, 2008

  • 321 Answers

SOURCE: 99 olds alero 2.4

I'm sure you have installed a fuel pressure gauge and monitored the fuel pressure while the problem is occurring?Another diagnostic tool which is easy to do,is while the problem is occurring,unplug one sensor at a time beginning with the Mass Air Flow first,.if it uses one.Many times,not always,depending on the sensor,if the sensor is taken out of the picture as far as what the PCM is seeing,like unplugging the MAF,the PCM will substitute the missing sensor output with a generic value that will allow the engine to at least run,and if unplugging for example the MAF,the engine idle speed returns to normal,you know you're onto the problem.You didn't mention if the engine ran ok other than the idle problem.As far as checking for vacuum leaks,i use something like brake cleaner or WD 40,more of a liquid,and it does sound like a vacuum leak.Plastic intake manifolds do develop nearly invisible cracks that open up more with heat.Revsisit the possibility.And as for the PCM,it is possible,but more likely a mechanical problem.Lastly,remove an O2 sensor or two before the catalytic convertor,run the engine and see if anything changes.Cheap way to verify the catalytic convertor is flowing and not restricting engine airflow,as i have seen bad cats cause misfire codes and strange problems.Good luck.

Posted on Dec 04, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: PO171 OBD-II Trouble Code " System Lean To Bank 1

Check PCV valve and be sure it is not stuck open.  Check for vacuum leak at intake manifold.  

Posted on Jan 01, 2009

freetek
  • 5568 Answers

SOURCE: power loss

Can't answer your last question but catalytic convertors that are just not working anymore won't cause any loss of power. However, if they have shattered inside (they are kind of a ceramic honeycomb) they can dump junk into the exhaust system that can eventually clog your muffler or resonator.
Checking whether this has happened isn't difficult; after the warm up of the engine, either you or a helper needs to listen to the exhaust note. If firing of the cylinders is still distinct, the system isn't clogged with shrapnel; if it seems to hiss at higher RPMs, it is likely clogged.
This effect is easy to miss; I've had two failures and when cold, the engine would pull fine because the chunks of ceramic would fall to the bottom of the muffler and glue together somewhat. Once hot and agitated, they would clog the muffler and cause a severe loss of power but the idle would be OK. A hill that I would normally pull at 70 MPH, I couldn't top at all; had to sit and wait for things to cool down before proceeding.
It also seems some engines appreciate a bit of back-pressure in the exhaust system because the car gained in mileage and pulling power for several thousand miles before the clog became critical causing the mileage to fall sharply along with the power.  

Posted on May 23, 2009

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