Air/vacuum line on intake unplugged

2.0 or 2.5?
here is 2.0
if you need more just let me know

1. Disconnect battery ground cable, then isolate cable end with electrical tape or equivalent.
2. Remove air intake system and fuel line mounting bracket.
3. Disconnect throttle cable.
4. Disconnect coolant line from idle air bypass air valve.
5. Disconnect coolant and vacuum lines from throttle body. Mark vacuum lines for installation reference.
6. Disconnect throttle position sensor connector.
7. On models with automatic transaxle, disconnect idle switch connector.
8. Disconnect brake booster vacuum line from back lefthand side of intake manifold.
9. Disconnect EGR temperature sensor connector, if equipped.
10. Disconnect speed control vacuum line from back righthand side of intake manifold.
11. Disconnect EGR solenoid connectors.
12. Remove PCV valve from cylinder head cover.
13. Raise and support vehicle.
14. Remove intake manifold support bracket, then the EGR pipe from intake manifold.
15. Lower vehicle and remove intake manifold attaching bolts and nuts.
16. Remove intake manifold and discard gasket.

Intake Manifold Tightening Sequence

1. Reverse procedure to install. Torque bolts and nuts in sequence to 14-19 ft lb.

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Sorry I don't have the diagram, but I do have a diagram of the engine and component locations. Your vacuum system is fairly simple. You have a MAP sensor attached to the air cleaner. I have pasted a picture below. It has one electrical connector and one vacuum hose that goes to the intake manifold or the throttle body.
Behind the right headlight is your evap canister. This will have a hose or line running to the fuel tank. Then it will have another hose going to the purge valve. The purge valve should be close by and it has a connector plus another hose that goes to the intake manifold.
Then you have the PCV hose that goes from the PCV valve in the valve cover to the air cleaner or intake manifold. I think yours just has a hose from the air cleaner and the rest is internal.
There is one more vacuum hose, and that is the bog one that goes from the intake manifold (or throttle body--looks to me like there are a couple of vacuum ports on the back side of the throttle body, and there may be a "T" on one of the hoses) to the brake booster. It this one was off, the engine would not run, as the vacuum draw is large. Please let me know if you cannot figure it out from these instructions and provide a picture, if you can.

MAP sensor:


purge valve:

I think you have an air leak, a vacuum line loose, or possible intake manifold gasket leaking, maybe your big air intake hose is leaking. spray carb cleaner or soapy water around mating surface of intake and on vacuum lines and connections. If idle changes, there is your leak. good luck.

The age of your vehicle guarantee's a vacuum leak. It may sound silly but the truth is rubber grommets and hose's shrink and dry out over time and the harsh environment under the hood makes it worse. Check all vacuum lines and fittings attached to the intake manifold, valve covers(pcv valve), and be sure to check for a vacuum fitting on top of the intake just behind the throttle body. Does it fit tight in the hole? You can seal loose fittings with a high-temp RTV (Red) silicone sealant/adhesive. Several small leaks add up and your engine, heat/AC, will be all to glad to tell you about it.

Check the vacuum line under and in front of the throttle body...with engine idling. It is located under where the air filter snorkel attaches to the engine. Then check all vacuum lines at the intake manifold. Check vacuum lines at distribution block on firewall and check the large brake booster vacuum line from one end to the other. You'll find it!

Check the vacuum line under and in front of the throttle body...with engine idling. It is located under where the air filter snorkel attaches to the engine. Then check all vacuum lines at the intake manifold. Check vacuum lines at distribution block on firewall and check the large brake booster vacuum line from one end to the other. You'll find it!

The age of your vehicle guarantee's a vacuum leak. It may sound silly but the truth is rubber grommets and hose's shrink and dry out over time and the harsh environment under the hood makes it worse. Check all vacuum lines and fittings attached to the intake manifold, valve covers(pcv valve), and be sure to check for a vacuum fitting on top of the intake just behind the throttle body. Does it fit tight in the hole? You can seal loose fittings with a high-temp RTV (Red) silicone sealant/adhesive. Several small leaks add up and your engine, heat/AC, will be all to glad to tell you about it.

Computer is not getting current through the purge valve/solenoid. Check connection to valve. If good, you can either test the valve to see if it's bad (requires special equipment) or just replace the valve. Instructions for both are pasted below. The cost of the part is $40. Let me know if you have more questions.

COMPONENT TESTING Carefully check for cracks or leaks in the vacuum lines or in the canister itself. The lines and fittings can be reached without removing the canister. Cracks or leaks in the system may cause poor idle, stalling, poor driveability, fuel loss or a fuel vapor odor.
Vapor odor and fuel loss may also be caused by: fuel leaking from the lines, tank or injectors, loose, disconnected or kinked lines, or an improperly seated air cleaner and gasket.
If the system passes the visual inspection and a problem is still suspected, proceed as follows:

1. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, unplug the electrical connector from the canister purge solenoid. Use an ohmmeter to check the solenoid coil resistance; it should be 19-31 ohms.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON then, disconnect the vacuum line from the intake manifold and connect a hand vacuum pump to the valve.
3. Apply a vacuum of about 10 in. Hg (34 kPa) to the hose and solenoid, then observe if the valve holds the vacuum. If the valve does not hold, apply vacuum directly to the solenoid to determine if the solenoid or hose is at fault, then replace the component which allowed vacuum to release.
4. If the vacuum holds in the initial test, jumper the test terminals on the ALDL (terminals A and B are the test terminals and are the two uppermost right terminals of the ALDL connector), and observe if the valve activates, releasing the vacuum. If the valve does not activate and release the vacuum, replace the solenoid.
   

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Canister Purge Solenoid Valve
See Figure 2
The purge solenoid valve is mounted on the engine, towards the rear and below the intake manifold.

1. As an added safety precaution, you may wish to disable the air bag(s), if equipped. refer to Chassis Electrical for the air bag disabling procedure.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the air cleaner/intake tube assembly.
   

For DOHC engines, the solenoid can be reached through the access hole located next to the intake manifold support bracket.

1. Unplug the solenoid vacuum hoses and electrical connector.
2. Remove the attaching bolt, then remove the canister purge solenoid.

To install:

1. Install the solenoid and tighten the retaining bolt to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
2. Connect the vacuum lines to the solenoid, then install and push in the electrical connector until it clicks firmly into place.
3. Install the air cleaner/intake tube assembly.
4. Connect the negative battery cable.
5. If necessary, enable the air bag(s). refer to Chassis Electrical .

Fig. Fig. 2: The canister purge solenoid is mounted below the intake manifold

No vacuum to switch. The system uses vacuum from the intake manifold to operate the various vent doors. Look under the hood for the small vacuum line that goes into the firewall near the A/C lines--there may be some other ones there a different color, but only one--usually black--goes to the intake manifold vacuum port. Make sure it's hooked up and not leaking there. If that's OK, see if you can get behind the control switch in the cabin. The line may have come loose there, or perhaps your switch is leaking there.

This system uses vacuum from the engine intake manifold to steer the vacuum actuator of the mode door. Fail safe position is defrost. Most of the time problem is caused by a loose vacuum line at the manifold or a shaved trough line somewhere under the hood. The line runs on the LH side off the engine (as seen from drivers position) starting on the intake manifold.

Intake Manifold REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1.9L SOHC Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
3. Drain the coolant system.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Air cleaner fresh air hose
   • Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve hose
   • Fuel line from the rail
   • Throttle cable from the throttle body
   • Throttle cable bracket nuts
   • Fuel injector electrical connectors
   • Throttle Position (TP) sensor electrical connectors
   • Idle Air Control (IAC) valve electrical connectors
   • Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor electrical connectors
   • Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve electrical connectors
   • Heater hose from the intake manifold outlet
5. Position the wiring harness over the brake master cylinder
6. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Intake manifold support bracket bolt
   • Label the vacuum line for proper assembly
   • Drive belt
   • Power steering pump
   • Upper intake manifold bolts
   • Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge valve solenoid vacuum hose
   • Brake booster vacuum hose
   • Lower intake manifold bolts
   • Intake manifold
   To install:
   
7. Thoroughly clean all gasket mating surfaces. Be careful not to damage or score the aluminum surface. If replaced, use Loctite® 290, to seal the new PCV valve inlet tube into the manifold. NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the intake manifold torque sequence illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart.
   
8. Install or connect the following:
   • New gasket and manifold. Torque the nuts in sequence to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
   • Power steering pump. Torque the fasteners to 27 ft. lbs. (38 Nm).
   • Drive belt.
   • Heater hose and install the manifold support bracket bolt. Tighten the bolt to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
   • Lubricate the male ends of the fuel lines with a few drops of clean engine oil, then connect the fuel supply and return lines.
   • Fuel line(s) in the retaining bracket. Torque the mounting screw to 36 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
   • Throttle cable to the throttle body and attach the accelerator cable bracket. Torque the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
   • Reposition the wiring harness and connect the wiring and vacuum hoses to their original locations. The harness leads to the TP sensor and EGR solenoid must be routed between the intake manifold runners.
   • Negative battery cable
9. Fill the coolant system.
10. Prime the fuel system by cycling the ignition ON for 5 seconds and OFF for 10 seconds a few times without cranking the engine.
11. Start the engine, check for leaks, and repair if necessary.

The vacuum line on the drivers side of the intake manifold just below the throttle body fell off.