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Volkswagen golf 1998 the main relay become hot then stop the car no power to injector no spark

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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Clean the conctact relais from your pins, and relais contacst.use the contacts cleaner. remember to disconnect the negative from battery for to avoid shock.i will be a good idea to replace the relais, the coil can be overheating.
God bless you

Posted on Jul 23, 2013


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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check for 12v at injector plug if no 12v this is fed from the ecu so backtrack all fuses and ecu feeds
you may need new ecu control unit but be sure to check all 12v feeds and earths etc

Posted on Jul 01, 2010

SOURCE: car will not start

If I am right, the firing order is,1-3-4-2. With the dissy cap removed, have someone turn the engine over so you can see which way the rotor arm goes. Set the engine to TDC and the rotor arm should point to the No1 cylinder at the start of the firing order. If it rotor points away from the No 1 cylinder then slacken the dissy housing and move the diddy until the rotor ppoints to the No1 cylinder. Now pHT lead from the No1 spark plug to the No 1 possition on the dissy cap. The next lead goes on the next available possition on the dissy cap in the way of the rotation of the rotor then to the No3 spark plug carry on the same with 2 and 4 and that should solve your problem unless you have a different firing order.

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

  • 722 Answers

SOURCE: my 1998 petrol golf Mk4 is backfiring and lost power

Hello patrick_toal, and thank you for choosing Since you replaced the injectors, it sounds like the timing belt/chain may need replaced. My 87 buick was doing that very thing. Also, have your lifter rods checked. You may have a bent or broken one. You will usually hear a pinging or knocking sound if one is bent or broken, so if your not, than they are probably sitll good, but if your timing belt or chain (whichever is equipped) is wearing out (if chain, the gear is probably wearing out, and if belt, the belt is probably beginning to strip). If this is the issue, then you will want to get it fixed, or it can cause more damage, such as mentioned above, bend or broken rods.

Now, before you do any of that, just in the effort to save you time, and money; change the air filter, and the fuel filter, and if you haven't already, the tranny fluid and oil (the filters for these will be replaced automatically, as they are part of the fluid change process).

Some other things that may cause this are as follows: First however, consider having a diagnostics test done on the car. Go to your (a) mechanic, or a local auto parts store and request (if available) to have a diagnostics test done. It should only take about 5-10 minutes at a auto parts store, and if anything is wrong with the car, the test will reveal such codes for such faults, and they representative will be able to tell you what each code represents and what parts need repaired/replaced.

Other causes:

Fuel Injected Engine:
coil wire/spark plug wires/spark plugs
coil pack(s)/modular <--coil pack(s) will be screwed to modular
fuel filter/air filter
O2 Sensor(s)
Fusable Link(s)

Carburated Engine:
Distributor/Cap/Rotor <-- consider switching to an EFI Distributor as they do not have points
coil wire/coil
spark plugs/wires
fusable link(s)

Also, have the alternator and batter tested for safe measure. Check all fuses. If and when you have a diagnostics test done, write down all the codes and the parts/components for each they represent. Have the codes cleared. Replace parts starting with the least expensive first, and if the issue persists, move up the list.

The above is what I do for all my vechicle. When I first purchase a vehicle, the first thing I do is a complete tune up which includes oil/tranny fluid and filter change, air and fuel filters, new plugs, wires and if carburated, cap and rotor. The chances of the coil pack (if fuel injected) and or modular being faulty are very low, but still possible, so consider them as well.

I hope this information is useful to you, and helps you get your car running smoothly again. I thank you for choosing for your car repair solutions. NOTE: If this is a diesel (as diesels have injectors as well) it's best to take it to a diesel mechanic (or if under warranty still, the dealership of purchase, or VW service dealer).

Again, thank you, and please let me know if there is anything I can do to assist you further in getting your car up and running right again.


Posted on Apr 04, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2001 volkswagen golf epc light on loss of power

i had the same problem... Change the spark plugs and the ignition coils, All of them... It usually accelerates without giving it gas.. Don't worry about that...

Posted on Jul 05, 2009

  • 271 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 Volkswagen Golf- need the diagram layout

Did you check brake pedal switch for power? Disconect the switch/located next to steering column under the dashboard/ and short the terminals/two/with wire,switch ON and look at the taillights.If not-change the fuse.If YES - change brake lights switch,but first trie to pull out the front side of the switch and check again tail lights.

Posted on May 05, 2010

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When you say shopping you mean Stalling right. If yes then the usual cause is a failing Relay 109 which is the main power relay . The early golf had a grey relay which failed due to dry solder joints etc the modified black relay was issued to elevate the issue.

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