I have power to the coil, all the way through the distributor cap. I have power to the ignition module. I have had both tested [coil and module]. I have no spark at the spark plug. The '94 Kia Sephia w/1.6L engine died while driving a few times. The mechanic that I took it to, could not determine the problem, and did not experience this problem while he had it. I picked the car up, it ran as normal for two days,then it died and will not start.

There is no definitive test for it the ICM, or igniter. If you are positive that the coil is good and it has power at the black/yellow wire, confirm that it is hot at the igniter. Make sure all 4 connecters on the igniter are tight, they should not pull off easily. With the cap off, you should check for spark directly from the coil to ground. Rotors fail too. If everything checks out, and still no spark, the next step is replacing the igniter. Check prices at Honda, sometimes they are the same or cheaper than aftermarket.

Do you have fuel, is your fuel pump working. If you do not have any spark at all, have you been able to check to see if you have power to your distributor. If so and you do have some then it might be either your ignition coil, pick up coil or your ignition control module. Your pick up coil in in your distributor under the plate. The coil is on top of the distributor cap. The ignition module is right under the cap where all your distributor wires connect to. Some part houses can test your ignition module and let you know if good or bad. Good luck.

Start with the ignition coil. It should have power to it with key on. Should be battery voltage on the primary circuit to the coil-that's the coil positive terminal. If the coil is good, it could be a bad ignition module-the module cuts primary current to the coil when commanded by the engine computer.
It could be several things-fouled plugs, bad plug wires, cracked distributor cap, bad rotor, crank sensor or pick up coil (inside the distributor), pcm. Test the ignition coil, or try a known good coil.

Replace your cap and rotor.

Check pickup ring inside the distributor sounds like the wire is broken and make sure you have power going to ignition module. If you don't go to library and use their all-data services for test procedures for no spark condition. If you have power to ignition module i would say its the pick up coil in distributor. This system is a pretty reliable one. I have seen new modules that where bad so you might have yours tested by your local parts store most of them will test them for free or a small charge.
Good luck I hope this helps get you back running agian

You need to check for power with a test light to the distributor components.Check for power at bat terminal on distributor while cranking.. I would replace the module and coil, plenty of them at the salvage yard. Testing them is not always correct off the car by the zone.

There wrere two types of HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributors used by GM in 1985, one was the original design with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap, and the second had the coil mounted seperate from the distributor and used a coil wire.

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also if the coil is seperate from the distributor that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.


GM HEI Ignition Coil (Mounted In Distributor Cap Type)

Check your fuses (ECM) and also recheck your wire leads to the coil. Your ICM (ignition control Module) may also be bad, it's located in your distributor under the rotor. You can have that tested also to make sure it's working 100%, there common to go bad from corrosion caused by condensation under the distributor cap.
Thank you for using Fixya and good luck.

There are 3 possibilities. 1 the coil. 2 the ignition module. 3 the pick up coil. In my experience the ignition module is the most common cause. It is in the distributor held in with 2 screws. The coil and module can be tested at any parts house. Good Luck

I had the same problem recently but replacing the ignition Coil under the distributor (inside) solved the problem. Also replaced the distributor Cap and rotor at the same time.