Question about Cars & Trucks
How to remove the instrument panel on a 1994 ford f150 XL.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Some of the gauges are on the same fuse as the dome light; check the fuses. The other main source of gauge problems for this vintage F150 is the sending units and I don't use the term sending unit lightly, so when you go to the parts store make sure you say you are looking for sending units not sensors (sensors hook to the computer) sending units are of 2 types for this vintage F150, lights and guages you need the ones for gauges, the oil sending unit is about 4 dollars and the coolant temp sending unit for a guage is about the same.
I have 4 fords and you will come to understand that the wiring is a jury rig, all this come out when they are the age of your 1989 PU.
Posted on Oct 16, 2008
You have to remove the dash but it is VERY simple to do.
Remove the fuseblock cover on the end of the dash on the passenger's side.
Once removed, remove the screw holding on the end of the dash.
Now, next to the glove box, to the right, remove the one screw on the bottom. Then remove this panel by pulling it out (it will now be held on by two clips at the top.)
Now, looking at the temperature control cover, remove the two screws from the bottom of this. Pull it off. It also is held on by two clips.
Now, below the steering wheel, remove the one screw from this panel (on the right). On the left there is a "plug" holding it in place, Pop out this plug. I think there are a couple of clips now holding this on at the top.
Now that you have all of that pulled out, pop the dash out. At worse, it is held in with clips.
Now that you have this out, there are four screws holding in the instrument panel. Take out these four screws. You will find one electrical cable connected to the cluster. Pop that off of the cluster and you now have the entire instrument cluster in your hands.
I've had to take mine out to figure out why my gear indicator/odomiter would not illuminate (Buick told me it was a light). I can see where this encased LED has a short (black mark). It is soldered onto the board. Looks like I have to purchase a repaired board.
I hope this helps.
Posted on Nov 03, 2008
Ok here is how you do it.
Ratchet or spinner handle
Ford DIN radio removal keys
ZipLoc bags, cups or some other way to store bolts
T15 torx bit (column shift only)
Automotive trim removal tools (helpful but not necessary).
(optional for odometer adjustment)
T15 torx bit
very flat straight edge
ICP=integrated control panel, the radio and HVAC controls.
Obviously it's up to you, but taking your ratchet and a 7mm bit to the negative terminal on the battery may be a good idea considering you will be working with electronics. Make sure you have turned off all lights; keys are out of the ignition, before you disconnect the terminal.
First, take the 8mm socket and attack the two screws up under the steering column. They are gold/copper color and near the OBD-II port. You'll feel them if you don't want to bend down at see them. Once you remove them, give the kick panel a few tugs and it should give way. There are some clips holding it on as well. If you are stuck halfway, you might it useful to use the flashlight to look around to see what's holding it on.
Next, removing the radio involves using the two Ford DIN radio removal keys. Insert both of them into the slot and push them in until they are sticking out about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Then take your thumbs and push the inside side of each key outwards and start pulling...the ICP should pop right out. Keep pressure on pushing the keys in as well, so the radio doesn't get stuck. Column shifter people will find it ideal to fold out the console to rest the ICP surround and the ICP. You can also disconnect the cabling entirely if you'd rather. Floor shift models will find it ideal to put their keys in, turn the key to "RUN" and place the shifter in "1". Floor shift models can also go ahead and tilt the wheel all the way down as well.
Now you should see 5 screws holding on your ICP bezel. Take the 7mm socket and remove each of those 5 bolts. There are also two bolts of the same size behind the ashtray. Pull the ashtray out, push down on the tounge, and pull the ashtray out. Remove those 2 screws as well. I used a cup to dump all the screws into. A ZipLoc bag is a good idea as well. Grab around the ICP opening and give a good tug. Plastic clips embedded in the ICP surround and those screws are holding it in place. There is a clip holding the ICP surround next to the kick panel you previously removed, that can be difficult as well. *NOTE* You can also leave the screws in the ashtray attached and fold the ICP surround down, but it's best not to do this multiple times, you can only flex the metal tabs so much.
Next, remove the two 7mm bolts in the top of the instrument cluster surround. Now, column shift models (floor shift models have already done this), go ahead and put your key in the ignition, turn it to the "RUN" position and shift down into "1". Also tilt the wheel all the way down. There is one 7MM screw holding that bezel on to the top-left of the ICP surround area . It's right below the row of warning lamps on the far right of the instrument cluster. It holds the upper instrument cluster surround to the dashboard.
Now it's time to start pulling off the upper instrument cluster surround (the one with the vents, light switch, etc). A metal trim remover is not as ideal as it can put blemishes in your dash. Harbor Freight sells a kit of 6 plastic trim removal tools for about $5. They won't scratch and harm the soft upper dash as much. Don't be afraid to try griping at different angles, just requires a little pulling. Use the tool accordingly. Once you have it loosened out of the dash, you have one more step before you fully remove it.
Unfortunately, the G4 headlight switch knob does not pop off as easily as the G3. You can either stick a small, flathead screwdriver (wrapped in a cloth) in the slot between the dash and the bottom of the light switch. Then start prying away at it. OR (the easier method) Once you have popped out the upper dash trim, you should be able to push the headlight switch out through the opening. Disconnect the cables and set the headlight switch aside.
Now you can fully remove the upper dash trim. Start by pulling on the upper part that goes around the instrument cluster. Be warned there is a plastic wedge shapped clip in the middle. It will require bending of the plastic to make it pop out correctly. If you have a leather wrapped wheel, be careful not to scratch or cut the leather. The upper dash trim requires manipulating the shifter position (column shift models) and swiveling the trim around the steering column and pulling up on it towards the roof of the car. Eventually it will pop out.
Now you should have a good view of your instrument cluster. There are 4 7mm screws holding it in place. The cluster rests on two small knobs on the bottom as well. Go ahead and remove those bolts. There are two, 2" long connectors that go into the back of the cluster. They are at opposite ends near the top of the cluster. They have clips on the top of the connectors. Push down on it and uninstall them (not an easy task, but doable. If you are a floor shift model, continue on. Otherwise...if you are a column shift model, this is an ideal time to remove the PRNDD1 indicator. This requires the T15 torx bit. There are two small T15 on opposite ends of the bottom of the PRNDD1 indicator. Be careful and don't let the cable drop behind the dashboard.
Go ahead and remove the cluster. If you need to take your keys with you, regardless of shifter position, you can put the car in park and take your keys out.
----------Instrument cluster disassembly and odometer correction-----------
This would be a good time to check all the lightbulbs, make sure they are not blown. Flip the cluster over. Take some needle nose pliers, grasp one of the lighted areas (they are marked and color coded). The big black ones are the background lighting, the smaller ones are for the indicator/warning lamps. Twist the holder counter clockwise, then pull up. You should have a view of the light bulb.
Next, reattach the upper trim panel, inserting the clip in first. As with last time, play around with the shifter in various positions(column shift) and make sure you get that 2" trim piece BEHIND the shifter. Once you have it set in place, go ahead and insert the two screws holding the panel into the upper dash. Reconnect the headlight switch and push it back into the dash. Insert the screw below the instrument cluster. Next reattach the ICP trim surround. Insert those 5 screws. Reinsert the kick panel below and insert the two 8mm screws. Pop back in the the ICP (with the radio DIN tools removed). Congrats, should be all back in place AOK.
Posted on May 30, 2009
If you are talking about the odometer display does not show numbers, here is a detailed instructions on where to find the cold solder joints at :
This is if the cluster lighting still works, but the display is blank. Don't know if you mean the gauges in the cluster do not work.
Posted on Jul 20, 2010
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