Question about 1995 Geo Metro
I have a 1995 geo Metro. this car sit for over a year and was only started a few times. it had a 1/2 of a tank of gas in it. now that im driving it again. it started out running very rough, not wanting to start or stay running. I noticed that there is a white bubbling mixture coming out of the intake area of the carborater. I was advised to put seafoam in the gas, I did that and it is running better to a point but now when starting it up first thing of the day it starts right up and runs but shows signs of dying out when you try and pullout at times. once you get going the car runs great, stopping it show signs of dying out. then once you turn the car off, it will not start back for bout 30 minutes or so. when trying to start it almost starts spits and sputters but doesn't. to add to this it blows steam out of the over flow area from the radiator, no water really just steam. the head gaskit was replaced all new sensors belts hoses last year. I replaced air filter and replaced air filter this week. I have drove the car about 300 more or less miles this past week. it seems to run better everyday, but I cant keep it running any ideas?
A GM suzuki swift.
G10 or G13 engine? both are EFI no carbs here, in USA. 95.
last carb usa 1994 Isuzu.
OLD gas goes bad clogging that Injector or if MPI ? injectors.
Old spark plugs cant burn old gas, like a double bad effect.
give a tuneup> last decade?
Nix, that sEA-Floam, use Chevron, Techron injector cleaner
its got the REAL clearer called Benzene, costs more but is MORE.
all that said , i never use additives. (snake oil ever)
after all cleaning and injection system correctly is hard work.
so I offer this comment based on, (fast and dirty fix)
sure, ISC dirty, they love to jam parked for a year.
EGR and PCV gasses, there form gunk,
Gunk cloggs, ISC, valve, (electric) idle speed valve
i cant drive car, see if right for overcomes a dead isc easy
if the lower RPM is from MISFIRE< i can hear it and feel it.
and Misfire has over 50 causes, spark plugs bad tops the list.
when it wont start to the operator guide , stated unflood method work. cranking wide open throttle, work?
I bet the PCV is clogged to. valve
steam, is a whole other matter, non of which is good
do a hard leak down test?
new head, was it milled (shaved) or put back not checking
for warp-age like the Service manual directs?
warped head bust be de-warped using baking oven.
Ask your machinist this is knows this very well on alumin, heads.
Id work steam issue, hard and not drive too far, like that,
Most heads replaced, DIY fail.
for 2 reasons,
not dewarped, and not surfaced correctly and other reasons.
Posted on Mar 04, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your timing belt is worn out. Some days it runs good because the cogs are lined up. The next time you start it, it maybe backfires just a touch, and it's out of time. Today, it's really out. Or maybe even broken.
Posted on May 20, 2009
SOURCE: running issues
BASICS, BASICS, BASIC......
**CHECK PLUGS, WIRES, FUEL FILTERS, RUN CAR AT HIGHER RPM AND SPRAY CARB CLEANER DIRECTLY INTO CARB, CHECK (WITH SPRAY CAN OF CARB CLEANER) FOR VACUUM LEAKS BY SPRAYING ALL AROUND INTAKE AREA, VACUUM LINES ETC...
IF IDLE SMOOTHS OUT OR RAISES..CHANCES ARE THERES A VACUUM LEAK
Posted on Jul 21, 2013
Testimonial: "Plugs and wires were replaced sorry I forgot to add that. "
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