Question about 1999 Volkswagen Passat

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Turbo not boosting

My 99 passat tdi 90bhp is not boosting.the turbo is not switching on and there is a rattle coming from the engine now since the turbo stopped boosting.the car still runs and starts the same as it always did but just have no power.i changed the boost sencer thats infront of the turbo but that didnt do anything and its still running the same its only doing this for about 4 days and is getting very annoying any ideas on what it may be thanks

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 84 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 passat tdi power fault

Air mass sensor, almost never shows codes but always makes the vehicle loose power !! cheaper from vw than pattern and more reliable

Posted on Dec 24, 2008

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Turbo Boost problems. 406 HDI 2000

Chech the solenoid that operates the turbo, its located beside the EGR solenoid on the bulkhead, I had one where the vacuum pipe was blocked where it connects to the brake vacuum pipe.

Posted on Aug 04, 2009

alicantecoli
  • 22156 Answers

SOURCE: vw tdi turbo dying

check the rubber pipes are not collapsing ,they run from the air filter to the turbo if they appear ok then replace the turbo

Posted on Sep 09, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My Audi A3 2.0 tdi limp mode/turbo overboost

i also have done a diagnostic test and it states a turbo overboost condition and it drives fine locally but loses power on the motorway and struggles to reach 80mph? any suggestions please email me at shiz86@hotmail.co.uk

Posted on Sep 14, 2009

bobbysmema2
  • 90 Answers

SOURCE: LOST TURBO BOOST POWER ON 2006 JETTA TDI. COMPUTER

You have turbo problems. Nedds to be taken to a VW dealership tech to repair/replace.

Posted on Jan 06, 2010

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1 Answer

On a dashbord flashing "oil


STOP the engine immediately !!! There is an oil pump failure of 2.0 TDI engines !
Remove the oil pan and the oil pump & balancer shafts assembly.

tdisline_456.jpg


Either the shaft driving the pump from the balance shaft rounds off or the balance shaft drive gears eat themselves.
The same issue ... low oil pressure warning light, noisy rattling engine, and the turbo has gone. Diagnosis: oil pump balancer shaft assembly ...


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Many 2.0 TDI engines show excess chain noise and wear anywhere from 50,000-100,000+ miles. Cars have broken the chains/tensioner as low as 65,000 miles. This is just a range of cars that have been reported, diagnosed, and repaired. The actual statistics on dealer repairs or failures is unknown and I've heard cars over 100,000 miles that, in my opinion as a non mechanic (most mechanics wouldn't recognize this sound and problem either), aren't noisy. From what has been reported, noticeable noise/chain-tensioner wear/greater risk of breaking is around 60,000-150,000 miles. Your case may vary. The most obvious symptom is a rattling loose noise from the oil pan. Unless you listen to a Passat TDI with a tight chain and one with a loose chain, it's hard to describe the difference other than rattling chain noise.
The reason the gear drive oil pump modification was started is because a few mechanics who specialize in TDI have seen many worn oil pump chains/sprockets/tensioners. There will always be a few defective parts that come off the assembly line and all mechanical components like chains wear out sooner or later, but in my opinion, the failure rate is abnormal considering the number of Passat TDI sold versus the number of reported oil pump failures. This does not necessarily mean that every or even most Passat TDI will have this problem, just that the reported failure rate is high enough to consider this part a design failure. Nobody, not even VW-Audi knows the average time between failure for these parts and the percentage of cars that will have this problem, but they changed this design and if you want to not have this specific failure, the only sure way is to swap to the geared module.


tdisline_464.jpg

Apr 17, 2011 | Audi A6 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Oil warning light on saying oil pressure pump STOP engine Oassat diesel 2.00litre First Reg Nov 2005 mileage 56,5000 approx.On standard servicing schedule not long life


STOP the engine immediately !!! There is an oil pump failure of 2.0 TDI engines !
Remove the oil pan and the oil pump & balancer shafts assembly.

tdisline_448.jpg
Either the shaft driving the pump from the balance shaft rounds off or the balance shaft drive gears eat themselves.
The same issue ... low oil pressure warning light, noisy rattling engine, and the turbo has gone. Diagnosis: oil pump balancer shaft assembly ...


tdisline_449.jpg tdisline_450.jpg tdisline_451.jpg tdisline_452.jpg tdisline_453.jpg
tdisline_454.jpg
Many Passat show excess chain noise and wear anywhere from 50,000-100,000+ miles. Cars have broken the chains/tensioner as low as 65,000 miles. This is just a range of cars that have been reported, diagnosed, and repaired. The actual statistics on dealer repairs or failures is unknown and I've heard cars over 100,000 miles that, in my opinion as a non mechanic (most mechanics wouldn't recognize this sound and problem either), aren't noisy. From what has been reported, noticeable noise/chain-tensioner wear/greater risk of breaking is around 60,000-150,000 miles. Your case may vary. The most obvious symptom is a rattling loose noise from the oil pan. Unless you listen to a Passat TDI with a tight chain and one with a loose chain, it's hard to describe the difference other than rattling chain noise.
The reason the gear drive oil pump modification was started is because a few mechanics who specialize in TDI have seen many worn oil pump chains/sprockets/tensioners. There will always be a few defective parts that come off the assembly line and all mechanical components like chains wear out sooner or later, but in my opinion, the failure rate is abnormal considering the number of Passat TDI sold versus the number of reported oil pump failures. This does not necessarily mean that every or even most Passat TDI will have this problem, just that the reported failure rate is high enough to consider this part a design failure. Nobody, not even VW-Audi knows the average time between failure for these parts and the percentage of cars that will have this problem, but they changed this design and if you want to not have this specific failure, the only sure way is to swap to the geared module.

tdisline_455.jpg

Apr 15, 2011 | 2006 Volkswagen Passat

1 Answer

Turbo problem...dealer replaced valve...still


If you have a problem that isn't caused by something obvious, you need a Ross tech VCDS cable. This is a laptop computer diagnostic cable to talk to the car's computer. Without it you cannot do the more advanced tests.
Note about generations - some generations have similar engines: Mk3= 1996-1997 3rd generation Passat TDI or 1996-1999 3rd gen Jetta TDI Mk4= 1998-2006 New Beetle, 1999-2005 Jetta, 1999-2006 Golf, 2004-2005 Passat TDI Mk5= 2005.5-2010 Jetta TDI Mk6= 2010+ Golf TDI
Remember, an engine needs fuel, air, and compression to run. Low power is related to a lack of one of these or a sensor problem making the computer thinking there's a lack of these. Any sensor problem could also be caused by a bad ground or broken/chaffed wire so also check every section of the wiring of the suspect sensor for breaks.
Bad MAF sensor - very likely cause on the mk4 TDI. Not common on the mk3 TDI (1996-1999 Jetta/Passat). Early mk4 MAFs failed often.Error codes normally do not show up with a faulty MAF since the signal degrades instead of going out completely. Through VCDS, checking MAF actual vs. specified at idle, high rpm, and high load will quickly show a bad MAF or other problem causing a low MAF reading.
Clogged intake manifold - carbon buildup chokes the intake manifold, starving the engine of air. Only ultra low sulfur diesel is sold in North America now so there should be much less buildup in the future. Always use good quality synthetic engine oil on your TDI..
Anti shudder valve shut or almost shut (does not apply to mk3 TDI, more for mk4 TDI) - there is a spring loaded valve right before the intake manifold. Newer TDI use an electronic valve and are not as susceptible to sticking. If there is excess carbon buildup, it could shut in a partially closed position.
Clogged snowscreen/air filter - a clogged air filter will starve the engine of air. A clogged snowscreen (large debris air pre-filter) shouldn't block off all air unless the aux-intake flap is also clogged.
Clogged fuel filter - change interval is 20,000 miles but biodiesel use (cleans out old buildup) or bad fuel could clog it early, resulting in fuel starvation. Algae or bacterial growth in the fuel tank could also clog the lines.
Boost leak - a cracked hose or loose connector lets measured air out. No air or major leaks = poor engine running or stuttering. A visual inspection may not reveal all the possible or hard to see spots where leaks can form.
Hose inside ECU (mk3 TDI only, does not apply to mk4 or newer TDI) - this hose leaks and normally sets a check engine light,
Vacuum lines to/from turbo and n75 solenoid - these dry out over time and crack or can rub through. It's possible they are clogged. The n75 solenoid controls the turbo wastegate or VNT vanes with either vacuum or pressure. b4 Passat - on firewall above coolant reservoir, a3 Jetta - on pass side near air box, a4 Jetta/Golf - on firewall above brake fluid reservoir.
Problem with the n75 solenoid, VNT actuator, VNT vanes, or vacuum lines. You should have already checked the vacuum lines, the below test will inspect the entire system. Start the engine and through VCDS, click on "engine"-->"measuring blocks"-->hit "up" until you reach "group 11". Compare Specified vs. Actual MAP. This compares what's actually happening and being observed from the boost sensor (barring a faulty sensor/plug/wire) to boost the computer is requesting (what should be happening). They should be relatively close. If they are far off this normally results in limp mode but it could also be contributing to the problem. If you have a mk3 you have a conventional turbo but you can still use this test to check the n75 solenoid, the wastegate, and vac lines. However, wastegates are much less susceptible to sticking vs. VNT vanes. The videos below show how it works. The lever on the outside is welded to a lever inside the turbo housing. This is how it moves the VNT vanes. See the below videos to see how smoothly and free the lever should move. It should not stick or bind at all. Vacuum is being applied to the can, not pressure.
If the test shows poor response or no response at all, it could be sticky VNT vanes/actuator (mk4 and newer TDI only), The vanes or actuator can stick or fail to function, the lever should move freely.
If the actuator is fine, also check the n75 solenoid and vac lines. The n75 solenoid controls vacuum or boost to the vacuum line going to the turbo wastegate/VNT actuator. To test, apply voltage to the solenoid or swap with a known good unit. If you have a mk4 TDI, you can swap it with the EGR solenoid to test. Also check the plug for corrosion and the wiring harness for chaffing. If those are good, disconnect the VNT actuator rod and move the vanes by hand. If the vanes are stuck then remove the turbo and clean the inside of the exhaust housing to free the stuck vanes.
Faulty injection pump's fuel injection quantity adjuster - these are occasionally set wrong from the factory or after seal replacement. It's also possible the fuel pump's internal quantity adjuster is faulty. Applies to 1996-2003 TDI only or TDI that use a Bosch VE injection pump (not pumpe duse or common rail). Injection quantity should be 3-5 at idle and up to 36-38 at full throttle.




Feb 01, 2010 | 2004 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

My 2004 passat TDI is giving me an exhaust leak sound noise.


This vehicle certainly does have a waste gate and they do have problems. However the waste gate diverts exhaust internally so you would not hear any unusual noise if it was being problematical. Also if the expected boost from the turbo did not match the actual boost there would be a check engine code and light on. If the hoses between the Turbo & the intake have a leak there may be a similar loss in power depending on the extent of the leak. It would be best to scan the engine computer to see if there are any Codes.

Dec 31, 2009 | 2004 Volkswagen Passat

1 Answer

Hi folks i have got passat 130pd tdi ,it seems


have you checked your air intake system? A clogged air filter will severly limit the amount of air that it can get, or a leak in the exhaust driving the turbo will limit the amount of pressure to spin it. Start by putting a new filter on it. Then if that makes no difference, you can check the waste system by installing a boost gauge, so as to check how much pressure you're actually getting to the manifold. If boost is normal, then you need to look for fuel system or mechanical factors.

Nov 19, 2009 | 2001 Volkswagen Passat

1 Answer

Loud rattling noise coming from the engine


Are you losing power as well? if so it sounds like the camshaft is worn, this can be confirmed with a compression test

Jun 16, 2009 | 2005 Volkswagen Passat

3 Answers

Reduced power when driving Mk4 Golf TDI


how many miles has it done?is it remapped? we have had the same problem and done the same repair as above and the next stage for us is to remove the turbo and strip it down and clean the veins inside the turbo as these can stick and give a loss of power,this is on a 2002 gti tdi pd with +-130000miles and its remapped.my car is gt tdi 130bhp stock 140000miles no faults

May 28, 2009 | 1997 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

Loss of power noisy engine turbo does not come in on a 19 tdi volkswagon sharan


Well,

The turbo bearing is gone. The turbo is not able to create enough boost. A local mechanic is going to have to change out the turbo. This is an expensive repair.

Good luck

Mar 21, 2009 | 1999 Volkswagen Passat

1 Answer

Loud audible beeping sound coming from the dashboard


Is the problem just indication or a real problem?
Check oil level.

Jan 18, 2009 | 1996 Volkswagen Passat

2 Answers

19 tdi loss of power


I have a 1999 VW golf tdi with intermittent loss of power. The turbo will cut in for a few seconds, then die forcing you to change gear and get a small boost again. The turbo will not boost much past 2200 rpm. The cars computer has been plugged in at the garage and does not show any problems. Various people have said, replace turbo, air mass meter or just simply wash turbo filters in WD40. Can anyone help?

Dec 11, 2008 | 2001 Volkswagen Passat

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