Question about 1997 Ford Escort

1 Answer

Timing belt failure OR idle air control valve?

- Turned off AC. - Started car - Heard muffled "clunk" from engine compartment. - Idle issues. Will not idle. Stalled. - Required feathering throttle to start. - Required constant pressure on throttle to run. - Ran "fine" at higher rpm. - Typical suspects: Fuel, Spark, MAF, IACV, Timing belt. - Fuel ok. - Spark ok. (Any way to put a timing light on this thing?) - MAF... could probably be cleaned. [will test] - Leaves IACV or Timing belt. I don't want to start the motor multiple times to check the IACV if it is the Timing belt. Is there an "easier" way to check the timing belt?

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  • Todd Hornquist Jul 22, 2013

    Problem update: Thanks Peter. I bought the timing belt kit because it is way over 75k miles due for replacement. The old belt actually looks almost new. IACV will be next because it's the easiest and least expensive. Will also clean the throttle body.
    Thanks for the suggestion of cylinder and head check. This will be necessary if problem persists after IACV replacement. Still working.



1 Answer

As far as the timing belt,if it has been on the car 7 years
or 75,000 miles, you just install a new water pump,belt &
all the pulleys & tensioners in one kit,after you check cylinder
integrity,valves,compression & such
A cylinder contribution test is done first with an oscilloscope
& software to do that.
Once the above mechanical condition of the motor is
out of the issue, you move on to other tests
Smoke testing for vacuum leaks,fuel & spark issues,etc.
Can you check timing belt-- if fairly new,yes
You can put a camera wand behind any dust cover
& you can use your scope software again to look at cam,
crank,injector & spark events in relation to when they should
Now the problem ! To find a shop that has that knowledge,
equipment and skill level,not many do.
All your mentioned parts can & should also be component
tested, in the proper sequence, if necessary
What can you do
You can try & get access to check the timing belt
Using a timing light,no,scan tool to look at data yes
You can test some,a few items, maybe,yourself if
you Google & study up some on how to do it
You Tube Video is a place you should spend some
time on any subject

Posted on Jul 21, 2013

  • kingtwomp May 17, 2014

    The black plastic timing belt cover has an inspection panel on the top which can be opened with a screwdriver. You can easily see and feel the timing belt on a 97 Escort. If your belt isn't there the car won't start but it will still turn over. Your car has a non-interference engine which means the valves won't collide with the cylinder heads in the event of a timing belt failure. If you have considerable play in an existing belt it could have slipped off its timing mark which would cause your car not to idle. If you've ever heard a loud screeching sound from your engine that's likely your timing belt. Check the top pulley the belt goes over for slop and play. You may need to get a new bearing kit installed as well.



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2 Answers

Engine idles fine till you turn on a.c. then slow & shakes badly

Hello good sir or mam

So here is goes when you turn on your ac system you put a harder load on you engine as it engages the ac compressor clutch. That being said if you are low on freon your ac compressor will be harder to turn as refrigerant contains oil for your system too.

You may also want to check your serpentine belt as a worn belt will cause this to look for frays,cracks,or a depth Gage. also you may need a tune up check your spark plugs,igniton coil, and or distributor cap & rotor if applicable older models.

You may also need to replace your idle air control valve as it can definatlly cause this

well i hope it helps if so please leave 4 thumbs up

May 15, 2011 | Ford Escort Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When i turn on the ac the idle goes low and the the car vibrates. When i turn off the ac the car stop vibrating.


The Idle Air Control (IAC) valve controls the amount of air that bypasses the throttle valve, which controls the engine idle speed. The IAC valve consists of windings, an armature, a return spring, and a rotary slide. The engine control module (ECM) pulses the voltage to the winding, the opposing forces on the armature by the return spring cause it to maintain a fixed position, adjusting the amount of bypass air to maintain the correct idle speed.

Removal & Installation

  1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
  2. Disconnect the idle air control valve harness electrical connector.
  3. Using a suitable tool, remove idle air control valve.
  4. Installation is in reverse order of removal.


Checking Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) Triggering

  1. Check IAC valve is electrically OK.
  2. Slide up boot on the IAC valve connector.

0900c152801c00a1.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. IAC Connector

  1. Use scan tool 'Output Diagnostic Test Mode' function 03 to trigger the IAC valve - N71.
  2. Connect VAG 1527B voltage tester, or equivalent, between terminal 1 and engine ground (GND). Voltage tester must flash.
  3. Connect VAG 1527B voltage tester, or equivalent, between terminal 2 and battery positive voltage (B+). Voltage tester must light up.
  4. If specified results are not obtained:
    1. Connect VAG 1598/19 test box, or equivalent, to ECM harness connector.
    2. Check the wiring between harness and connector terminal 1 (in engine compartment) to test box socket D11 . Then check the wiring between harness connector terminal 2 and test box socket D9 using wiring diagram. Repair as necessary.
    3. If the wiring is okay, but triggering still does not occur, replace the ECM.
    4. If the triggering signal and the wiring are okay and the valve does not react, replace the IAC valve.

Checking Mechanical Function
  1. Remove the idle air control (IAC) valve.
  2. Visually check the surface of the rotary slide (arrow) for signs of wear.

0900c152801c00a2.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Showing the IAC Valve

WARNING Do NOT check for ease of movement by prying on the rotary slide with a screwdriver or other tools that could cause scratching or other damage.

  1. Reconnect the IAC valve, while still removed, to the harness connector.
  2. Use scan tool 'Output Diagnostic Test Mode' function 03 to trigger IAC valve - N71.
  3. Check whether rotary slide moves freely from stop to stop.
  4. If there are signs of scoring, or if the rotary slide does not move freely in both directions, replace the IAC valve.
  5. If the IAC valve does not respond (not triggered) during the Output Diagnostic Test Mode, check triggering.

Resistance Test
  1. Remove the idle air control valve harness connector.
  2. Use a suitable Digital Multimeter (DMM) to measure the resistance between the 2 terminals of the idle air control valve.
  3. The correct measurement should be 7-11 ohms. If not, replace the idle air control valve.

NOTE At room temperature, the resistance value will be lower. The resistance value will be higher if the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is measured at under-hood operating temperatures.
  1. Reconnect the idle air control valve harness connector.
  2. The idle air control valve should hum and vibrate slightly when the ignition is turned 'ON'. If not, the ECM or harness may be defective.

Testing with VAG1551:
  1. Remove the idle air control valve harness connector.
  2. Connect the VAG 15278 LED tester to terminals 1 and 2 of the harness connector using the jumpers from VW 1594 adaptor kit.
  3. Turn ignition ON, perform steps from output DTM (Diagnostic Test Mode) to activate the IAC valve (N71) LED tester must blink.
  4. If tester does not blink, check wiring using VAG 1598 pin out box, electrical checks, step 26. Repair as necessary.
  5. If wiring is okay, replace the ECM.
  6. If LED tester blinks but the IAC valve does not operate, replace the IAC valve.

Feb 15, 2011 | 2000 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

1 Answer

90k , timing belt new @ 80k worked fine sprayed engine with water to clean dust started and ran fine nest day started but then idled up to 4k and wouldn't idle down drove it about 5 miles and got off...

I have ran into this problem at my shop. There are 3 things that could be bad. Idle air control valve, pcv valve or the vacum hose for the pcv valve. Vicually inspect the pcv vale hoses. If you dont see a tear, spray carb cleaner around the hose, if engine idle changes there is a vacum leak in hose some where. If pcv valve and hose are ok than its your idle air control valve. You can attempt to remove part and clean it but this is only a temporary fix, Good luck.

Oct 17, 2010 | 1998 Mercury Tracer

3 Answers

Would an idle control valve cause a car not to accelerate?

no, idle air control valve is literally to control your idle speed.
what happen when you press on gas? car shakes, RPM goes up, or engine just bogs down?

Mar 09, 2010 | 2004 Infiniti I35

2 Answers

Where is the timing belt on a 2001 BMW 325i??? Also, where is the ICV (Idle Control Valve) on a 2001 BMW 325i?

iac valve ( idle air control valve) its located on the throttle body, and timing belt, that year does not have a timing belt, good luck.

Nov 06, 2009 | 2001 BMW 325

1 Answer

Valve adjust

well that noise you hear is normal. on your stock intake it muffles the sound and on your after market one it dont the sound you are hearing is from the (IAC) idle air control. if you look an your throttle boddy you will see a big set screw should be next to the line that runs next to your e-vap if you tighten that screw the sound will quit down if you loosen it will get louder but if you change that screw it will change your idle

Nov 13, 2008 | 1991 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Timing help

Have you tried to replace the IAC (idle air control) valve?

Another probable cause could be a stuck EGR solenoid. If this solenoid sticks open, it will send vaccuum to the EGR valve, which will open the EGR valve and flood the system with too much air and "snuff" the engine out. This problem only shows up at idle. The engine should run fine when driving. Please let me know if this helps.

Jul 06, 2008 | 1988 Chevrolet C1500

2 Answers

I need help!!! 94 accord

well my 94 just blew a belt and they all seem to run on the same main pully. As i just learned these belts need replacing, especially the timing belt. its only good for 70000 miles. If its beyond that and the timing belt gets strecthed even a 1/4 inch it can throw off the timing and much more and make your car turn pretty gutless. If the timing belt brakes, there is a good chance it can permanetly damage the engine valves. If the timing belt is weak, it may affect idle when the ac needs to be turned as well?

Jun 05, 2008 | 1994 Honda Accord

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