Question about Cars & Trucks
Hi John, I suggest first carrying out a compression test. As you'll know a difference of readings between combustion chambers can result in misfire and loss of power. It would seem to me that if pressure is building in the cooling system there is something wrong with the head or head gasket. Did you have crack detection carried out? When removing the head I'm guessing you checked for ridge wear in the cylinder bores, so we won't go in that direction. I'm also guessing that the head was skimmed and is not warped? I guess you have used the correct torque setting when refitting the head? If not, as you'll know a leakage between the cylinder head and subassembly can result in combustion leaking into the water jackets, causing pressurization of the cooling system. Did you use genuine replacements when replacing the points and condenser? Make sure the new plug cables are all in good condition. These days we're getting plenty of dud replacement parts inclusive of condenser's and contact breakers! I suggest you carry out a resistance inspection. The ignition timing is as you know, also critical. Did you carry out a strobe setting of the ignition timing or static? I suggest a strobe. Open the peep hole cover on the bell housing and mark the timing at eight degrees BTDC on the flywheel and put a spot of paint on the pointer and reset timing with the engine idling at seven hundred and fifty RPM. Once timing is set, adjust the mixture control screw on the valve body of the carburetor, turning it inwards very slowly. If the engine begins to slow and become "lumpy," turn the screw outwards until the engine speeds up and runs as smoothly and as fast as possible. If the RPM increases too much, reduce by using the idle adjustment screw mounted on the linkages of the throttle butterfly mechanism. An incorrectly set float can also result in flooding and poor fuel consumption. Let me know how you get on. Regards John
Posted on Jul 21, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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