I have a 92 mustang lx 4cyl. timing belt broke and now i have the cover and pullys off but can not get the new one on cause it appears to be a crank senser in the way! how do i go about getting it off?

The cam have two notches on the side Wich have to line horizontal with the engine cover surface along with the cam spoke label up.
the crank pully also have some mark but it's on the inner side of the crank pully beside the engine belt usually a few close together and one by itself lining up to the timing cover above the crank pully

cut off switch could still be bad. First my sure gas is getting to the engine....if so then this indicates that fuel system is working properly. Sounds like car may not be firering. Things that could cause this is coil bad, ingnition modual failed or maybe pickup coil."sensor maybe some where..timing out which would indicate timing belt or chain or gears are broke......Keep in mind these are just some things that could cause your problem and gives you ideal what to look for........hope this info helps and good luck....Please rate this post and if you need more help then fill free to contact me and we will try to get ya back on the road......

I would check the timing belt. If it is hard to access, then pull the distributor cap or valve cover. If nothing moves as you crank it. Your belt broke.

need timing marks of an 1989 toyota camry 4cyl

You have a componant that is driven by the belt that is frozen solid and will not let the engine crank.Take the belt back of and turn all the pullys by hand to find the frozen one.

you need to remove the crank pully and the tensioner pully i think it is. i think its a large allen head bolt if i remember correctly

You will need a pulley puller for that one. Most parts stores sell or rent them fairly cheap.

TIMING BELT CHANGE You should have some mechanical skills before attempting any engine maintenance! These are basic instructions, and you must knoe what you removed, when, and what order so you can reinstall them in order. First, you have to remove everything in the way! You need to remove the Fan, clutch, and shroud, pump pully & drive belts. Next, you need to remove the Crank Pully:

1. Crank Pully Bolt 2. Crank Pully 3. Center Bolt 4. 5mm Hex drive (used to remove pully bolts) Once the fan stuff, and pully(s) are removed, then you need to remove the Timing Belt cover:

Once the cover is removed, you will need to loosen the adjusting nut and pully bolt on the Belt Tensioner:
A. Adjust Nut B. Pully Bolt C. TENSIONER PULLY Once the the Adjust Nut, and Pully bolt are loose, move the pully as far towards the water pump as possible.
Then, you can slip the timing belt from the sprockets. Check the tensioner for roughness and excess play! DO NOT MOVE THE CAM OR CRANK SPROCKETS! IF you do, then you will have to line up the Crank and Cam for piston number one at Top Dead Center before placing the new timing belt on! Note the timing marks on the crank and camshaft sprockets. IF YOU MUST! Allign the Cam and Crank at piston#1, Top Dead Center before removing the belt. Each sprocket has a small hole, with a line through it, and there is a small groove or "V" it alligns with on the engine. Now, once the timing belt is off, look at your new timing belt. Older belts use the Squared off teeth, while new ones have the rounded teeth. Make sure you have the correct belt for your sprockets! Never reinstall a belt that is in questionable condition. BELT WEAR CONDITIONS
If there are Arrows on the belt, they must be pointing to the RIGHT when you put the new belt on the sprockets. If there isn't one, then paint one on, and place the belt back on the sprockets. The arrow will indicate to a mechanic, this is the way the belt must be put back on (if they replace any cam or crank oil seals). Slip the new belt onto the Crank sprocket. While maintaining tension on the side of the belt opposite the tensioner, slip the belt onto the Camshaft sprocket. Releace the Tensioner adjusting nut to allow spring tension against the belt. Temporarily reinstall the crank pully, taking care to align the notch in the pully with the raised area on the sprocket. Rotate the crank clockwise two complete revolutions. Recheck the alignment of the of the valve timing marks. If they do not align properly, loosen the tensioner, slip the belt off the crank pully, align the timing marks, reinstall the belt, and check alignment again. Tighten the tensioner nut, then the bolt. Reinstall all parts removed, in the opposite order, of course. Start the engine and allow to reach normal operating temp, then road test. THEORETICALLY, you should simply be able to replace the belt with the new one, and go, as long as you did not move any of the sprockets when removing or installing the belt. Most people do it this way, and do not test for alignment before replacing everything. When the belt wears, timing will be off, very little, and this is why you check alignment. The belt may have slipped a tooth, making the timing off. This is why the Cam and Crank sprockets must both align properly. An experienced person will do just that: Replace the belt, and go. It really isn't all that hard. It helps to have a second person around with some experience also.

well if memory serves me this car has a coil with a distributor so first replace the rotor button check the distributor cap for cracks and oxidation then check your timing belt remove #1 plug turn piston to tdc then check if your timing marks are lined up other things you could check:module,egr valve,pcv valve you could also be more specific how do you know it has spark and fuel?

well has soon as you loosen and take out the alt the belt will become loose then put alt on it will slide down to put belt around and then pull up on alt and tighten it up