Question about Lexus ES 300
How to replace the driver side inner axle on 1995 Lexus es300
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Change the whole axle. You will waste TONS of time trying to change that bearing, and it is virtually impossible for a guy to do it without a real good machine shop. Trust me. Change the whole axle.
Posted on Sep 12, 2008
SOURCE: what is the procedure to
You don't need the special tools that they use in this procedure, you can use a hammer and a block of wood to get the axle out of the hub and you can use a pry bar to get the axle out of the transmisson.
Notice: Care must be exercised to prevent the constant-velocity joints from being over-extended. When either end of the drive axle is disconnected, over-extension of the joint could result in separation of internal components and possible joint failure. Drive axle joints and seals should be protected any time service is performed on or near the drive axles. Failure to observe this can result in interior joint or seal damage and possible joint failure.
Notice: Prior to removal of drive axle assembly, cover all sharp edges in the area of the drive axle with shop towels so that the seal is not damaged during removal.
Any time the front halfshaft is removed, the transmission (the halfshaft male and female shank) and the knuckle sealing surfaces should be inspected for debris or corrosion.
If debris or corrosion are present on the sealing surfaces, clean them with a 320 grit cloth or equivalent. Transmission fluid may be used to clean off any of the remaining debris. The surface should be wiped dry, and the halfshaft should be reinstalled free of any debris or corrosion buildup.
Important: Verify that the drive axle is seated by grasping on the inner joint housing and pulling outboard.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Tighten the drive axle nut to 200 N·m (144 lb ft).
Posted on Nov 02, 2008
SOURCE: CV Axle removal and installation
The axle should be able to be removed by using a flat ended pry bar tool with a dull flat end. Or possibly a very large flat screw driver. Put the pry bar between the axle and transmission. With light pressure, the axle should pop out of the transmission. The axle just snaps into the transmission. There should be no need or cause to damage the seal because the seal is inset into the transmission. Just watch what you are doing. As far as replacing the seal, I do not know. I have not had to do that yet, and I have replaced both sides with new boots more than once.
Posted on Nov 11, 2008
Naturally you need to remove the tire then the brake caliper. After the brake caliper is removed then you need to remove the 34mm axle nut that is inside the hub. After that is removed then you can remove the hub. Becareful not to damage the hub seal on the back or you will have to buy a new hub (100 or more). Then you need to remove the strut knuckle assembly. Once the knuckle assembly is removed then you can pull the CV axle. Take care the inner CV housing is held in place by an inner snap ring. You will probably have to pry off the inner housing. Once the axle is off then install the new axle (if you buy complete axle). Make sure if you are doing both that you take care which side you are installing. I made that mistake and double the work. Slide the new axle on the spline and make sure it is seated completely. Then put back together the reverse of removal.
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
The answer is NO... you do not pry it 'OPEN." I'm assuming you've already removed the cotter key and the 1 1/4" nut from the axel hub? The DOJ (Dual Offset Joint) that is inserted into the differential side of the trans has a retaining ring which "COMPRESSES" when you pry the DOJ out using a large pry bar or extra large screwdriver. The same 'COMPRESSION' happens to the ring when you install the new axel.... once fully inserted, the ring 'EXPANDS' inside the differential splines creating enough tension to keep the DOJ in place.
Posted on Jun 20, 2009
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