Question about Cars & Trucks
Yes hello i was wondering if you can help me i recently had replaced my carby with a brand new one on my 3f toyota landcruiser 1990 model due to also having a blown head gasket i had fixed that problem up replaced the head gasket adjusted rocker shaft replaced the points condenser leads had the head re-coed by a proffesional motor mechanic replaced the intake/exhuast gasket as they are one the engine still shakes like its missing could be a leak somewhere in the manifold exhaust gasket not too sure ?? anyway i had a lot of back firing from carby all the time so i got rid of the old carby and put a brand new one on it engine it goes ok no more back firing through the exhaust and as u drive anyway but its now using too much fuel i got 166 km from a full tank to empty and usually i get about 300-345km from the same sub tank doing the same distance as before also as the other petrol tank has a leak in it so i only use the sub tank for the time being it also lacks power it takes forever to get up to 100 km/h on the open highway what could this problem be ? any advice on how to make it run smoother ? how do i fix the fuel usage and give it back the power it once had ??? please help
You did not say what model carb you put in. Did you check the float level? Metering rods or jets?
Posted on Mar 03, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 3f carby motor missing as if points are out. Engine has 200000kms on the clock, new NGK plugs & leads, new coil, new points and rotor button, valve clearences done, new gasket kit on carby, new fu
check the earth for the anti dieseling wire to the carby. I had the same prob and the small wire to the carby on the passenger side had a crook earth. This was forund after a number of previous attempts to solve the issue
Posted on Jun 28, 2013
SOURCE: help me
Hi John, I suggest first carrying out a compression test. As you'll know a difference of readings between combustion chambers can result in misfire and loss of power. It would seem to me that if pressure is building in the cooling system there is something wrong with the head or head gasket. Did you have crack detection carried out? When removing the head I'm guessing you checked for ridge wear in the cylinder bores, so we won't go in that direction. I'm also guessing that the head was skimmed and is not warped? I guess you have used the correct torque setting when refitting the head? If not, as you'll know a leakage between the cylinder head and subassembly can result in combustion leaking into the water jackets, causing pressurization of the cooling system. Did you use genuine replacements when replacing the points and condenser? Make sure the new plug cables are all in good condition. These days we're getting plenty of dud replacement parts inclusive of condenser's and contact breakers! I suggest you carry out a resistance inspection. The ignition timing is as you know, also critical. Did you carry out a strobe setting of the ignition timing or static? I suggest a strobe. Open the peep hole cover on the bell housing and mark the timing at eight degrees BTDC on the flywheel and put a spot of paint on the pointer and reset timing with the engine idling at seven hundred and fifty RPM. Once timing is set, adjust the mixture control screw on the valve body of the carburetor, turning it inwards very slowly. If the engine begins to slow and become "lumpy," turn the screw outwards until the engine speeds up and runs as smoothly and as fast as possible. If the RPM increases too much, reduce by using the idle adjustment screw mounted on the linkages of the throttle butterfly mechanism. An incorrectly set float can also result in flooding and poor fuel consumption. Let me know how you get on. Regards John
Posted on Jul 21, 2013
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