Question about 2000 Jeep Wrangler

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Sport After driving about 10 miles, and shutting off, then starting again, this happens......brake light, airbag light comes on, stays goes off...and when engaging the clutch fully, a grinding noise occurs (sounding like starter engaging) but when letting out it stops until fully depressed again........I am stumped, because after it cools down all of this goes away.......until i drive another 10 miles or!!!!!!!

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  • Maury Moseley Jul 21, 2013

    This all started when my check engine light came on, i let vehicle cool down then started checking everything from gas cap loose to wiring. The battery proved to be junk as the next morning it would not start. I replaced battery and no more check engine light but the above occurred after driving a short distance. Again i let it cool down and all the symtoms went away. I then drove a short distance and the symtoms re-occurred. Why would this only occur when hot and not cold? It almost seems to me that something is overheating ( circuitry related ) that causes the lights and or starter to act crazy? If this is all individual symptoms i could understand but they all occur at same time only when vehicle gets hot, all the while driving and otherwise seeming normal?

  • Hi Maury, I wonder if you've had a diagnostic scan carried out? You must have forgotten to mention the engine check light coming on in your first note. Have that done and then let me know the results and faults recorded, we'll go on from there. Regards John

  • Maury Moseley Jul 22, 2013

    Before i realized there was a battery issue, i took it to local parts store and they tried to run a dianostic but it wouldnt even register. I thought it odd at the time but next day when battery was dead i figured that might be reason.

  • Maury Moseley Jul 22, 2013

    I am going to try again now that new battery is installed

  • Maury Moseley Jul 22, 2013

    Talked with dealer, think we have problem solved, faulty ignition switch seems is the problem, gonna change it out and see what happens, thanks for responding, i will let you know if this is a fix



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Hi Maury, Seems you have a number of different problems at the same time. The grinding sound when pushing the clutch pedal would seem to be the clutch thrust release bearing, which is located inside the bell housing and requires the removal of the gearbox to replace. The warning lights should come on each time the ignition is switched on and then they should extinguish after a few seconds. The illumination of these lights is a fail safe system to show that all warning systems are active. The radio will go off during the period when the starter is engaged as a relay shunts all power to the starter during that procedure. The starter motor uses more power from the battery than any other system. The manufactures have taken this into consideration when designing the circuitry and decided as many others have, to adopt the operation. If when starting from cold this does not happen and the radio plays, it is indicating either excessive drawing of power by the starter and may also be the cause of the grinding noise you experience? Regards John

Posted on Jul 21, 2013


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SOURCE: 4x4 transimission clunks when engaged?

When engaging the 4WD system, you are pulling the lever on the Transfer Case right? Not the transmission, it's a different gearbox.
There were several versions of transfer cases that used both full and part-time 4 wheel drive.
From your description this sounds like a part-time transfer case.
Going with that, it is somewhat normal to hear and feel a mild clunk when engaging 4WD high range, especially if you are at a complete stand-still or under full throttle.
Try engaging 4WD High while slowly rolling at idle - no throttle. It should pull in fairly smoothly.
Once 4WD is engaged it will literally LOCK the front and rear axles together. So do not do it on hard dry pavement.
These older style 4WD systems need a little "give" especially when turning. The engineers assume you are not engaging 4WD unless you are in a somewhat slippery scenario.
Many CV joints, axles, U-Joints, differentials, and transfer cases are damaged and broken by folks who don't understand this.
Reading the owners manual should provide a clearer description of what you've got.
Bear in mind that when you come out of 4WD it may not completely release, again due to hard pavement binding up the axles. You can try this: backing up 10-25 feet in a straight line, or getting one set of wheels on the shoulder or in some gravel. That should allow it to release the transfer case and go back to everyday 2WD high.
I hope this helps.

Posted on May 15, 2009

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SOURCE: Engine sputters when clutch/brake engaged; revs when brake only engaged

Good fix. Way to go.

Posted on Jul 04, 2009

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SOURCE: HELLO EXPERTS I have a 1995 jeep wrangler with

Check all your hydraulic connections for seepage . If you find nothing leaking, check where the rod goes into the master cylinder under the dashboard...If still nothing, I'd change the master cyl, as it is likely internally bypassing and permitting the clutch to release. PS it takesa a special "touch" to shift gears without using the clutch, if you cannot do that don't drive it Till you get it will damage synchros and will need to have trans removed and rebuilt. $$$you don't want to spend!!!

Posted on Jul 12, 2009

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SOURCE: 2000 Jeep Cherokee Gear Grinding & 4WD Whine sound

Give a try by change your transmission/filters and Transfer case oil.

Posted on Oct 27, 2009

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SOURCE: My 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport makes a loud whistling

It could be tons of different things , but being that the problem is more evident during cold weather , I'm inclined to think that the serpentine belt is loose.

Posted on Nov 08, 2009

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