Question about Cars & Trucks
Every thing works fine we have pulse to the injectors. checked by using a noid light, we have pressure
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check the pickup in the distributor as this is the cam sensor. The injectors run of the pulses created while the rotor is turning around. It should be a plastic disk located under the rotor button.
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
If it ran before sitting 2 years it can run again ok...but...
if it will not now start as you say then it is only one or two things...it is not getting gas into the engine or the plugs are not getting spark correctly. Take one of the plugs out or use one of the old ones and connect to one of the wires with the plug held against ground (sheet metal or engine metal) while someone cranks the engine. You should see spark jump across the plug. If you get spark then you know that is ok. Since you replaced the distributor does that mean you took the distributor completely out of the engine. If so then you probably have the timing off and you may need to rotate the distributor a few degrees one way or the other to get it to run. Also recheck your plug wires to make sure that you have the correct order of the connections from the distributor to each plug. You said you sprayed starter fluid in the throat. That should make the engine try to start if you are getting spark ok. If it trys to start and actually starts running ok but then quickly dies then you know you are getting power to the plugs ok but that the gas is not continuing to flow into the engine so that is the thing to concentrate on. Go rest, have a beer, or watch TV or something for 1/2 hour to let things normalize on the truck and any flooded gas seep away. Then squirt some more starter in the throat, get in the truck stomp the pedal maybe 4 or 5 times. Then hold the gas pedal to the floor...do not let up on it or pump it...and crank the engine. It should sputter, jump and finally run. If not you can try this procedure maybe 3 more times. By then if it will not run then you probably have flooded it. So then do not pump the pedal at all but each time you try to start it merely slowly push the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there while you crank. That will relieve any flooding and hopefully it will start and run. If your timing is off though from the work you did on the distributor you may need to get that set close to the correct position before it will run well. I guarantee that if it ran 2 years before then it will run now. Also, take a look at the air intake filter...mud dobber wasps like to get in there and build nests. Try leving the air filter completely out until you get the engine started and running ok. While you are at it, look carefully at some of the wiring in the engine compartment...the small wiring stuff that goes to the distributor etc. I have seen where mice get hungry in the winter and actually chew off the insulation and even cut the wire...so look around...sounds silly but I have seen where I had to splice wires and recoat some with insulation where the mice have done their thing.
Posted on Aug 22, 2009
There are three relays all grouped together on the firewall on the passengers side. All three are related to your situated. We can eliminate one of them because you stated that the fuel pump is operating fine. Now that leaves the relay for the ECM(engine control module) this tells the injectors, cold start and run, when and how much fuel to supply and also controls ignition timing and spark advance. The third controls the AC compressor. Now I've got to remind you that I started working on fuel injection systems the day they started failing here in the US around 1972.These were such vehicles as Mercedes, Saab and Volvo. I've worked on every configuration, TBI, MPI, diesel etc.etc. I may on occasion cross one fact with another or mispronounce certain aspect of a system however, These three injectors are where you want to concentrate your efforts. With some finnesse you can swap the harnesses from one to another. If your car runs fine and your AC suddenly does not, then you know that that relay is faulty. Do this until you get your answer. Best of luck my friend, Dana
Posted on Aug 31, 2009
SOURCE: vehicle came in for check
A misfire at idle that smooths out at cruise is ALMOST ALWAYS caused by a vacuum leak. Take a hard look at your fuel trims at idle. If the Bank 2 Long Term Fuel Trim is more than + a couple points higher than the Bank 1 trim, your problem is most likely a vacuum leak. If the Fuel Trims even-out while holding the engine at 2000 RPM for about 20 seconds, then a vacuum leak is DEFINITELY your problem. I would suspect a leaking lower intake gasket leak because an upper plenum leak will normally affect all cylinders.
Posted on Jan 30, 2011
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