Question about 2007 Saturn Aura XR Sedan
Every time after pumping gas, when I try turning it on, it won't turn on. It does clicking sounds and I have to step on the gas in order for it to turn on. I have replaced the gas cap three times. But the engine light is still on and it continues to do that. Please help and answer this. I really want to know what is wrong, or the code, and about how much it can cost me to repair my car.
No one can retrieve vehicle codes over the internet,
or tell you repair costs or what is wrong.
You have a MIL Lamp on your dash you have it
checked for codes & a repair shop will use the codes
to component test the issue.
Why would you replace a gas cap at all,if you have no
vehicle knowledge at all or don't understand what codes
are for or whatever code you had,you need help at a shop
I assume you have an Evap System Code such as a small
When you ask for answers you have to provide the codes
& lot of details of what has been done so far to resolve
Did you you thinks brand new gas cap are sold to you three
time & they are all bad,really
Posted on Jul 18, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Most likely it was just the loose , dirty cables. It is very crucial for the elec needs of a vehical to have perfect connections . Ign housing has a small magnetic type bar on the housing that the ecu needs to recognise to allow the car to start, and changingh this may cause the theft light to activate. Its called P.A.T.S or , passive anti theft secuity and
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
pull the spark plugs out and turn it over a couple times. then after the excess fuel comes out put new spark plugs back in it. try changing the coil pack.
Posted on Jan 12, 2009
SOURCE: 1996 Saturn SL, 4 cylinder,
Form the saturn..........when starters age they tend to have problems when engine hot.You need to replace the starter.
As for the wagon it sounds like some sort of ignition problem if it's turning but not starting........I have seen o2 sensors cause this behavior. However to be sure you need to obtain an OBDII code reader to be positive of the issue.
Thanks for choosing FIX YA!
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
SOURCE: tapping sound
Valves Yeah. Put Some Valve Cleaner In Your Gas You Can Buy It At Pretty Much Any Auto Parts Store For About $5.00 If This Doesnt Fix It You May Need A Valve Adjustment.
A Valve Adjustment If Done Yourself Will Take A Repair Manual, Feeler Gauges And A Wrench.
The Timing Chain Is Usually A Steady Scrapping Sound.
Posted on Jan 19, 2009
PO455 is a large evaporative fuel leak. A bad fuel cap is ONE of the things that COULD be the problem. Fuel system cleaning only lightened your wallet. Reading your post is confusing. Did all this start AFTER the Valvoline Wallet Flushing? If so , they left something loose or disconnected. I would find a qualified repair shop to fix the problem, and if it has anything to do with what Valvoline did, make them pay the bill.
Posted on Nov 12, 2009
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Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All
Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be something as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.
Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a problem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter solenoid.
Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this problem.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.
Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start
Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.
Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.
Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.
Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.
Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off
Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.
Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.
Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you
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