Question about Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: change headlight
Behind the low beam and high beam lamps, on the back of the assembly, you can see and feel a round, cup-like, hard plastic piece. This is really just a rubber cap covering a plastic cylindrical housing, and is the "back-door" for lamp access. This rubber cap, or lid, can be pulled off with your fingers...if you can grip it just right and pull off. If this is too hard to do, then take a flat tip screwdriver and gently "pry" it off. Once you see how it is attached, your going to do a 180 and say, "gee, this is a pretty easy design" !
The bulbs do not pull out!! They are removed with a 90 degree twist.
If you are going to replace the passenger side low beam remove the air cleaner assembly first. To do this remove the cross brace, then the 3 screws on the air cleaner assembly. This will give you easy access to the bulb assembly. Test the bulb before you reassemble. ADDITIONAL OPTION: On each side of the assembly, you will see a small, thin release bar that will pull up (I needed a small pliers to get one loose). Once both are in the "up" position, the entire assembly can be gently eased out. You won't get far because the other bulbs are still plugged in. However, you don't have to unplug any of the other bulbs or remove the air cleaner. Easing out the assembly simply proves more room for your hand to get a better angle at the bulbs. I simply reached around and removed the old bulbs as specified above and did the reverse to insert the new ones.
Posted on Dec 10, 2008
i think what you are talking about is the front differential. you will wanna put gear oil in it. the correct weight would be found in your manual.
Posted on Feb 20, 2009
I have the 03 Expy with continuous rear air unit "clicking" or more accurately flapping of the air damper while the plastic gears in the 2L2H-19E616-AA grind away into toothlessness. Ford designed this unit to find the end of travel by jamming the motor to a stop and monitoring the current to determine when to stop applying voltage. That would probably be fine if the gears were designed to handle the jammed torque or the motor did not slip out of groove and continue turning and cracking the plastic gears.
There are two white colored boxes, one is for the temp plenum door, the other the upper/lower air flow. To be sure, do what I did, turn on the ignition, rear ac/heat and listen for the obnoxious click/thump as you move the temp control from full heat to full cool, you will know which part. Disconnect the electrical connector, four bolts and it is out!
Go to your dealer, part should be about $60 or less, look on line, lots of dealers sell for this or less on internet.
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
Hey First thing I always look for is cheapest thing to repair or look at .. Make sure your tires are not cupping .. or make sure they are wearing good and smoothe all the way around .. this can make a terrible noise if they are cupped or worn improperly.. then I would Jack up one side and shake the rear wheels make sure those bearings are tight feeling .. you should be able to tell if they are loose this way ... I dont know how many miles are on your van but usually the drive line is not the problem.. this is probably last thing you need need to shake and see if there is play in it.. Holler if you need more and thanks Jerry
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
the drivers door switch is most likely bad, they get used the most and wear out first, the connector on the back of switch may have come loose and not making good electrical contact, remove switch and check connector and if still not working need new switch, the windows are all on same circuit and either all work or none work so not fuse. extremely rare is a short in wired but not likely.
Posted on Aug 18, 2009
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