Question about 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor
Rear noise either prop shaft or hub bearings, noise goes away somewhat turning veh to right.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Yea its actully quite simple, but expensive. The regulator needs to be replaced. I have already replaced my right rear, but I think my driver side is going out also, sounds like it anyway.
Thank God I bought a third party warrnty and they took care of everything. Zurich is the name of the company. I purchased the one with no deductible. Anyway I wish I had a better solution-but its awful hard to do your self.
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
There are a few things that this could be, and I see that you have replaced a few of the items that it could be but steering systems are a weird thing so here ya go:
Post more info you would like, to pass on.
Posted on Mar 17, 2009
SOURCE: Can't get rear rotors off...
there should be two holes in the rotors that will be threaded. send two bolts in them a little at a time to push the rotor away from the backing plate.
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
This is due to the microswitch inside the glass hatch failing. It will not let you open the door because it is unsure if the glass is open or not.
Here is how to verify this:
Manually open the glass hatch.
Remove the two philips screws from the cover on the back of the handle area, and unscrew the plastic plug with the slot in it.
You should now be able to remove the cover.
You will see the harness coming off the glass handle going to a connector. Unplug this white two wire connector.
Your rear hatch should now open normally, just without glass opening.
To repair this, you will need to replace the glass hatch handle. It is a dealer-only part, and the cost is about $35.
To replace it, simply remove the 2 10mm nuts behind it (visible with the cover off that you just removed) and replace the handle and plug it back in.
Now all functions will work.
If you have any questions, just ask :)
If this has been helpful please be sure to rate me :)
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
Timken bearing assembly is what you need. They actually make this all sound so difficult but let me tell you how I just did the same job on my Murano 06 AWD that uses the same type of assembly.
Remove the axle bolt then the wheel, caliper & bracket to remove the rotor. Support the caliper by hanging it from the the strut spring. From the back side, you should be able to remove the speed sensor and if on that model the bolts come froom the back side, there should be just enough room to remove them. that is what holds the hub assembly in place, these aren't pressed into the vehicle, just mounted. I used an axle puller to remove the hub assembly once all of he bolts were loose & it wasn't necessary to remove the ball joint or axle. You need to push the axle through the hub assy & there is a rental tool you can get for that. There was not any excessive pulling to remove the assembly, just tap, tap, tap & it was free, ready for the other to be installed. There is the possibility that you would have to drop the lower ball joint & tie rod end to get access but I didn't have that problem & I looked at your bearing, it looks identical. Good luck.
Posted on Jan 27, 2010
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