Question about Ford F-350
Where are the fuel injectors located on my 2000 Ford F360 7.3 liter turbo diesel and how can I tell which ones are not working? Are they easy for a begimmer to replace? I was told by a mechanic that 2 of the injectors were not working when he hooked up his tester to the computer under the dash of my truck. If I can't change them, where should I go to get the cheapest price?
Posted on Apr 07, 2015
Fuel injectors located under valve cover you need special tools to remove fuel injectors and install fuel injectors.you need to look up on internet or dealership to find ford 7.3 diesel engine fuel injector removal and installing tool.to test injector you need diagnostic scanner it will tell you what fuel injectors bad. dealership or shop works on medium trucks and big trucks can fix problem. WARNING DIESEL INJECTORS OR UNDER HIGH PRESSURE YOU CAN REMOVE THEM WHILE SPRAYING FUEL.FUEL UNDER HIGH PRESSURE.FUEL CAN PIERCE HOLE IN SKIN CAUSE BLOOD POISON. THE FUEL INJECTORS WORKS ON HIGH DC VOLTS 115 VOLTS CAN CAUSE ELECTRIC SHOCK.
Posted on Jul 18, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i dont know about the turbo going bad,but i do know that ive seen 7.3 diesel have bad injectors,usually 2 at a time, check for fuel at the injector which can get messy so wear protective gear such as goggles and gloves,while running crack open the fuel line at the injector to see if there is fuel,it should run rough which is good on the working cylinders,if it doesnt change then maybe a bad injector,or not enough fuel pressure at that injector.injection pump issues are another thing,but most likely its an injector.
Posted on May 09, 2009
They are a pain in the ****. You have to take the valve cover off, remove the fuel lines, remove the inlet valve, remove the rocker arms, then unscrew the injector out. There is no doubt, that you can do it yourself, just leave yourself 3-4 hours probably.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
simple : obtain replacement pump from parts provider (no used stuff)
Now help me out here: thats the year they were bolted to the pass side front of engine
and not inside the tank right? (better go look to see for sure)
using a tube wrench unscrew the fuel lines (i use large wire nuts to temp block off fuel leakage)
with a 12 mm wrench undo the two side bolts holding the pump to block
wiggle pump it should come straight off
clean mounting place on block with solvent let dry
silicone back (or use gasket that comes with pump ) of pump
apply pump to block (depending on where crank stopped you may have some tension on arm you will have to overcome to get flange to meet block )
use locktite (blue)or simmiliar thread lock on bolts retighten firmly but not hang up the dog tight
use light grease or vasolene on tube connections don't try to tighten dry
Now the fun part your diesel now has air in the fuel system
there are two ways to remove this ( hard and harder)
your choice here are both methods
loosten the fuel supply line for #8 injector ( I did not say remove) 1 full turn ought to be enough
crank engine 30 seconds only
wait 5 minutes for starter to cool down
crank engine 30 sec again
did it start but runs rough while it's still running tighten #8 injector (caution fuel under high pressure)
engine smooth out good your lucky
engine did not start yet
wait 5 minutes
crank engine 30 sec again
if so tighten #8 injector up
Now here's something I've done to my diesel to make this much less a hasstle
trace fuel line as it comes up from pump
obtain a small low pressure electric fuel pump and a two short pieces of fuel line
and a few clamps
use tube cutter and cut fuel line just before it bends to go in filter
slide tube and clamps over pipe (both sides)
insert pump observe flow arrrow towards filter
the wires of pump can be stretched over to #1 battery terminals
now any time you change a filter or open your fuel system for any reason
all you need do is connect pump to battery
open sharader valve on top of filter for a few min
and start truck as normal
then disconnect wires and stow away for another day
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
ford diesels from that year had a funky problem getting the crank triggers to work 100% of the time the software fix they refer to might be the one that alloud a poorer quality signal from the crank trigger to work , this is not a fix but a work around (no good)
first verify that a fault for the crank trigger sensor is held in memory with a scan tool (there not that expensive now)
if so replace it and don't forget to seal it with locktite blue (or it'll unscrew itself)
the trans od needs to see the crank trigger signal to determine "load" to high no Od bad signal makes eec go into can't decide mode and drops in/out of od
ohh a dead giveaway it's the sensor your tach will bounce (allot) at a fixed engine speed (2000 rpm)
also i just looked there's a TSB on throttle posisition sensors(oil vapor intrusion) as well affecting Od on transmissions but that being bad will make engine speed surge too and you did'nt mention that ?
yea EEC test is the way to go but get your own
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
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