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Dakota A/C Troubleshooting

A/C inoperative. Tried to Hot Wire A/C Clutch... no go. Not seeing Power to A/C System. Blower Fan Blows... Fuses OK... Relays OK... Hidden Fuse??

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  • Patrick Robb Jul 17, 2013

    Ran power from the Battery... no go. Also, cannot detect power anywhere in the low pressure switching circuit.

  •  Stephen
    Stephen Jul 18, 2013

    Well if you ran battery power to the clutch and it did not engage, sounds like the clutch is toast. You did not say what year the truck is, but on a 2001 model you have a 10amp fuse that powers the ac clutch relay. The engine computer grounds the relay when the ac is needed. The pressure switches send a ground signal to the computer. On older models power passed thru the switches. You may want to check the resistance on the clutch coil.

  • Patrick Robb Jul 18, 2013

    Sorry about that... it's a 1999 Dakota RT. Is this the Computer Ground Signal to Relay Flavor/Year Dakota? Checked the Fuse Block for the 20 Amp Fuse and the Relay. Rotated out relays and fuses (since neither appearde blown or scorched) and still no power in the A/C Circuit. Since a direct jump to the Compressor clutch did give a voltage draw, but no clutch activation, it looks like the Compressor Clutch will have to be replaced.

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 21,873 Answers

What year is the truck, and where did you run the hot wire from ?
If the ac clutch is working, and you put power to it, it should engage.

Posted on Jul 17, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1596 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 Town Country front blower motor inop fuse/relay ok

Break Down And Replace The Blower Motor


REMOVAL

WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE, THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PERFORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIR-BAG SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN AN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH OR DEATH.

NOTE: The blower motor is located on the passenger side of the vehicle under the instrument panel. The blower motor can be removed from the vehicle without having to remove the HVAC housing.

  1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the passenger side cowl trim panel.
  3. Position the carpet to access the front upper screw that secures the air inlet housing.
  4. Remove the recirculation door actuator.
  5. Disconnect the blower motor wire lead connector from the blower motor resistor or power module, depending on application.
    1. Remove the one screw (from the top) that secures the lower air inlet housing to the upper air inlet housing.
    2. Remove the four screws (from the bottom) that secure the lower air inlet housing to the upper air inlet housing and remove the lower HVAC housing.
    3. Push the rubber grommet through the opening in the lower air inlet housing.
    4. Route the blower motor wire lead through the opening in the lower air inlet housing and remove the lower air inlet housing from the vehicle.
    5. Position the recirculation-air door as necessary to access and remove the three screws that secure the blower motor to the lower half of the HVAC housing.
    6. Gently flex the recirculation air door downward to gain access to remove the blower motor from the HVAC housing. NOTE: To aid in installation, note the position of the blower motor mounting tabs prior to removal
      1. Remove the blower motor from the HVAC housing by rotating and tilting the blower motor as necessary.
      INSTALLATION

      1. Gently flex the recirculation-air door downward to gain access to install the blower motor into the HVAC housing.
      2. Position the blower motor to the HVAC housing and tilt and rotate the blower motor as necessary to install it into the HVAC housing.
      3. Align the blower motor mounting tabs to the locations noted during removal and install the three screws that secure the blower motor to the HVAC housing. Tighten the screws to 2 N·m (17 in. lbs.).
      4. Route the blower motor wire lead through the opening in the lower air inlet housing and seat the rubber grommet.
      5. Position the recirculation door pivot shaft into the lower air inlet housing and install the inlet housing.
      6. Install the four screws (from the bottom) that secure the lower air inlet housing to the upper air inlet housing and the lower HVAC housing. Tighten the screws to 2 N·m (17 in. lbs.).
      7. Install the one screw (from the top) that secures the lower air inlet housing to the upper air inlet housing. Tighten the screw to 2 N·m (17 in. lbs.).
      8. Connect the blower motor wire lead connector to the blower motor resistor or power module, depending on application.
      9. Install the recirculation door actuator.
      10. Reposition the carpet.
      11. Install the passenger side cowl trim panel.
      12. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
      13. Perform the heater-A/C control calibration procedure.

Posted on Feb 07, 2009

blubanshee
  • 48 Answers

SOURCE: 91 Honda Civic Wagon air conditioning inop

Hello,

I have something you can check. The system has a low coolant safety usually plugged in about midway of the coolant reservoir. There will also be a plug above that one for the high coolant safety. If the mechanic let too much freon out of the system when he changed the motor the safety will not allow your clutch to kick in or send power to the relay. The way you can check this is to unplug it from the reservoir and take a straight wire and jump across the plug. If the clutch kicks in when you do this that's your problem. I would only do this to test it then take the wire out. You don't want to run it with the low coolant jumped out for too long.

I hope this helps and have a great weekend

Posted on Jun 06, 2009

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: when I turn on the air only hot air blows out.

Hot wire the fan to the battery...If it fails to go on, the fan itself is bad. You sure the compressor is engaging? Generally even if the fan isn't on, there is enough air going through the grille to keep a/c cool.

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

  • 164 Answers

SOURCE: blows hot air clutch does not engage

you either have a power loss problem but more likley your low on refrigerant. if its low, there is numerous pressure sensors that will not allow it to engauge to protect the compressor. you got to put a gauge on it. standing system at 80"F should have about 80-90 lbs. standing pressure.

Posted on Aug 25, 2009

  • 118 Answers

SOURCE: Pontiac G6 (2006) 55k miles AC inop.

Load placed on the engine takes place when the Compressor clutch engages. It will not engage if the system charge is too low on freon. It needs to be checked with a gauge, I think that may be your problem.

Posted on Apr 22, 2010

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Blower not working at all. Fuses & relays ok. Aircon cuts in when fan is turned on but no air from vents. Need to know what colour wire supplies power to the blower before I assume the motor is faulty


the blower is silent.????????? yes, sounds matter !
ON HIGH TOO? (fan speed max)????
or makes normal sounds, but does not blow.
1 or the other.?

the blower if dead silent can be hot wired (blows now?) (costs zero to do)
or using any voltmeter made. measure for 12vdc on the 2 pin
to motor, fan on high. (costs $10 for tool at walfart)
if 12vdc there, (across the 2 pins) then the fan is bad.
of 0v, the controls are dead.
the fan on most cars. on high, bypass the fan speed resistor block.
what you dont have is the schematic,
its at 2 places (usa ,min)
alldata.com
and suzukipitstoppus. (real fsm book)

2000 GV, data, below.... it takes all of 10sec to look.
all answers, USA cars, as this is a USA forum.
i click HVAC for you.
as you can see the switch is grounded at red circle.
and with fan on high ground (0v) is applied to the motor low pin
and if the relay is hot, (2 fuse good) the output of relay b/w wire
will be at 12vdc, if not the relay is bad.(fuses good)
cant be more simple. same from 89-2000 after that things get harder, (controls) your car has a motor driven mode damper
that is why i asked the sounds questions. as it too can block the air flow. (with a perfectly running fan)


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