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Your car either has a 2.0L or the 2.4L 4-cylinder engine. All 4-cylinder engines are super easy to locate the cylinder orientation. Find the front of the engine where the belts are, the closest cylinder at the front of the engine is #1. Followed by #'s 2, 3, and 4 all in order. The firing order is 1-3-4-2, but that is only the order that they fire in, not there location. So #2 is the 2nd coil back from where the belts are.
Is the coil pack and module getting voltage from the key ? Is the module getting a signal from the crank sensor ? Are you sure everything is connected ? Is the replacement engine the same year and model as the old engine ? Let me know what you find out.
Those are usually sold as a one piece unit. I normally don't replace just the glass. Open the door panel up and you should see the wiring and 2 to 3 nuts holding the studs for that housing din place. remove those and remove the housing. As far as opening the housing I don't even think you can.
The 4.0 liter 6 has a crankshaft senser thats known to go bad. It's located on the drivers side of the lower bellhouseing and gets it's signel off of the flywheel. The connector for it is at the back of the intake maniflold near the firewall. the test is to get a volt meter and disconnect the throttle position senser. It's on the side of the throttle body and it has a three wire connector. with this connector unplugged one wire will have no volts ( ground) one wire will have 12 volts ( key on power) and the other should have 5 volts ( senser voltage). This wire is the one beign checked with the key stil on and the voltmeter still connected to the 5 volt wire unplg the crank senser. ( the connector at the back of the intake maniflod that goes on to the senser in the bell housing) (Some have two)) If the voltage chnges the senser is bad. If it is the coil is likly bad also. use the volt OHM meter to test it too. Unplug the wire from the coil and test it for OHMs at the two pins that connected to the wire harness on the coil. If it's less the 3 OHMs it's likly bad and less than 1 OHM it's certainly bad. It'll fail a new cranksenser and can fail the igtion module thats under the coil. ( they don't fail very often) and if they do the coil is bad and the spark plugs cap rotor and wires are all suspect to being worn out. If you blow the module it's expensive and something else did it. If you replace it replace the rest of the system to protect the new module. Coil cap rotor wires and sparkplugs. all of these parts cost less then the module and they being worn out is the couse of mdule failure. A new module can fail very quickly if these other parts are bad even though it may run fine with the new module installed. the parts stores don't warretee modules that don't have new sparkplugs and wires and coil so here you go.
Sorry I don't do text, because I don't want spam either... The most likely cause of your problem is a bad TFI (ignition) module. All of the engines used in Ford trucks in 1991 used the TFI modules. Some were distributor-mounted modules and some were fender-mounted modules. I cannot tell you where yours is actually located, because you did not bother to mention engine size. (Nice-to-know information - it helps a little if we know what we are working on) Anyway, That is the most likely cause of a no-spark condition. In fact, It has been so common with the Ford engines that Ford ended up settling in a class-action law suit due to the TFI modules repeatedly leaving people stranded. I personally had a Ford Ranger - replaced the TFI module about 6 times in the 7 years that I owned it...used to keep a spare in the glove box.