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BRAKES ON JOHN DEERE 5065E TROUBLE

YOU GOT TO PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL TO GET ANY BRAKE

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

txkjun
  • 409 Answers

SOURCE: 1992 Ford F350 Dually Diesel Truck Brake System problem.

Adjust your rear brake shoes. Then rebleed the system. Start at the master cylinder Bleed master first then the wheel furthest away from the master (right rear then left rear then right front then left front. Do that and your pedal should be good.

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

  • 1861 Answers

SOURCE: 2008 Toyota Tacoma Excessive brake pedal

Your dealer is not lying to you.
All of the Toyota product line with ABS has this phenomenon. What Toyota has done is incorporate "Brake Force Distribution" into the braking system. What that means is there is now a sensor on the brake pedal/brake rod, going to the master cylinder. The sensor measures how FAST you press on the brake pedal. This activates the ABS pump, and supplies more brake fluid, harder, to reduce the time needed, such as a "panic stop"; the pedal travel is much longer than you are used to, because of the way they have to measure the speed of the rod being depressed. In actuality, this system is much better than the old system, as it also prevents wheel drag. It just takes a while to get used to. Really, there is nothing to worry about, I explain this same thing to my customers every week.

I hope this helps you out.

Thanks for choosing FixYa for assistance.

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

  • 43 Answers

SOURCE: brake pedal is spongy

how did you bled them back 2 front?

Posted on Mar 27, 2009

litoshop
  • 298 Answers

SOURCE: brake pedal goes down to far abs brakes

Hi I'm litoshop if you bled the system and get no results then your brake pump needs to be replaced now before replacing make sure your pads are installed correctly because if there not this to can cause this problem good luck. if this information has been useful please let us know thank you.

Posted on Aug 11, 2009

j_del
  • 1586 Answers

SOURCE: brake pedal goes all the to the floor. can not

Check the reservoir to be sure the fluid is full. If not, top it off and try it again. If there's still trouble building pressure, pump the brakes a bunch of times, and then check around each wheel for fluid on the ground. If you see none, it's possible that you have a break in the line somewhere through the chassis and that the fluid is leaking out inside. If you see no evidence of leakage, and the reservoir is still full, you need a new brake master cylinder - what will have happened is that the diaphragm around the plunger inside the master cylinder (which moves through the cylinder when you push the pedal, and forces fluid out to the wheels) has a hole or tear in it, so instead of pushing the fluid out to the brakes, the plunger simply moves through the fluid. It never builds pressure, and your brakes don't work.

Posted on Dec 22, 2009

Testimonial: "thanks for the info. very helpful. harry Newman"

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1 Answer

Why does it have trouble stopping?


it sounds like the brake servo isn't working but you should still have some better brakes than you dascribe so i would also check the master cylinder , whick is connected directly to the servo , quick check ,engine running remove, brake fluid resovoir cap, pump brake pedal and get some to look into the fluid resovoir and tell you is there are air bubbles or not , if bubbles most likely a seal has blown if no bubble then most likely a mechanical part of the brake system ie master push rod at fault , either way i'd get a mechanic to check as you dont take chance's with brakes

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It is very difficult to diagnose this problem with the little bit of information you gave. If the brakes are drum brakes check to see if the brake cylinder is working and has no leaks, lift the rubber seals and make sure there are no leaks there, check the brake adjuster make sure that works okay. If everything works and you bled the brakes properly, then the problem is most likely is the master cylinder or the wheel cylinder.



While bleeding the brakes always make sure you check the master cylinder reservoir to make sure the fluid level is up so you do not get air in the brake lines. When bleeding the brakes did you have someone press down hard on the brake pedal hold the pressure on the brake pedal when opening the bleeder then push the brake pedal to the floor keep it there, until you tightened the bleeder, then pump the brakes up and hold it there, while you repeated the bleeding operation by opening the bleeder when the brake pedal go\'s to the floor keep the pedal down until you tighten the bleeder and then pump the brake pedal back up then check the fluid level in the reservoir, keep doing it until the brake fluid shows no sign of air.



If the brake pedal is pumping up during the bleeding process and you made sure you got all the air out of the brakes and then the pedal go\'s to the floor, make sure the fluid level is correct in the reservoir and the bleeder is closed tight and there are no leaks in the lines, wheel cylinder, brake cylinder the brake adjuster is working and master cylinder, and if you still have no brakes then it must be a defective piston in the wheel or brake cylinder, if there is a seal problem with the pistons you will not get any pressure to push the brake fluid. let me know how you are doing.

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1 Answer

I have a 20000 Nissan frontier that has a dana 44 front axle and brakes. I am having brake trouble. I am not sure if the stock master cylinder has enough pressure or volume to get the calipers to actuate...


Hi John, I'm not familiar with the front axle you ask about, but maybe I have some answers for you. Have the brakes ever worked correctly previously or have you fitted the parts? If the brakes have worked before, they should work again. If you have replaced the axle and braking system, have you carried out the bleeding procedure correctly? Always begin with the rear brake furthest from the master cylinder and work towards the front finishing with the wheel closest to the master cylinder and of course checking the reservoir frequently to make sure there is enough fluid. If you have drum brakes on the rear which is common, pull off the drums and inspect them for wear and frozen adjusters, as if the adjustment is low it will effect all round brake operation, giving the impression of soft spongy brakes and very low brake pedal operation. Once the brakes have been bled and all air has been expelled the volume of fluid pushed through from the master cylinder should operate the pistons in the calipers and unless there is a vast difference in the volume of the pistons now fitted to the front end, the front brakes should work. Regards John.

May 24, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Brake pedal hard


Hi P, The most usual cause of the brake pedal action becoming hard is a defective return seal in the brake master cylinder. When the brakes are depressed fluid is pushed into the wheel cylinders, activating the brake pads and shoes. After a few operations of the braking system the fluid fails to return to the master cylinder and with each further action the brakes become tighter. After the vehicle stands for some time the pressure gradually releases and frees the brakes. Have the brake master cylinder checked. It's good policy to replace the brake fluid once or twice a year as part of the major service. Regards John

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93 jaguar clicking sound when i press on the brake


Few latest troubleshooting help links related to these problem.
ABS light stays on but brakes work fine? http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/11/abs-light-stays-on-but-brakes-work-fine.html

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Sometimes ABS light comes on while Driving?


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These will help.
thanks.

Jul 07, 2012 | 1993 Jaguar XJ6

1 Answer

Brake pedal has alot of back pressure and car moves in gear.Have to press real hard to stop.How to check abs pump if has one where or brake booster or master cylinder?Don't know how to trouble shoot or...


The air seeping is a dead giveaway. Your power brakes are now manual brakes, but stiffer. The diaphram in the brake booster has torn and the hissing noise is the engine vacuum escaping (you hear it louder when you depress the pedal right?). Replace the booster and you will be fine. The brake lights probably don't work because you can't push the pedal down far enought to release the switch. Please rate. Thanks.

Sep 03, 2011 | 1995 Mercury Cougar

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I am working on a 2004 dodge caravan with a soft brake problem.i have replaced the rear shoes and adjusted rear brakes,also replaced front rotors and pads.i have also replaced the master cylinder.after...


try bleeding the master cylinder at the lines first as it indicates that there is still air in the pistons
loosen one line at a time and gently apply the brakes until any air bubbles come out tighten the line before releasing the brake pedal
do it for the other line and then bleed all the brakes starting at the longest line first and ending at the shortest line

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1 Answer

Brake pedal goes all the to the floor. can not


Check the reservoir to be sure the fluid is full. If not, top it off and try it again. If there's still trouble building pressure, pump the brakes a bunch of times, and then check around each wheel for fluid on the ground. If you see none, it's possible that you have a break in the line somewhere through the chassis and that the fluid is leaking out inside. If you see no evidence of leakage, and the reservoir is still full, you need a new brake master cylinder - what will have happened is that the diaphragm around the plunger inside the master cylinder (which moves through the cylinder when you push the pedal, and forces fluid out to the wheels) has a hole or tear in it, so instead of pushing the fluid out to the brakes, the plunger simply moves through the fluid. It never builds pressure, and your brakes don't work.

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1 Answer

No brakes 94 Nissan pickup


Hi

You sound like you are having fun !...............Not !

Brake Clamp, off all the brake hoses, and see if pedal returns ?

What have you done to the rear brakes, is the adjustment correct ?

I suspect your problem may be in the master cylinder area.?

Possibly the little rod behind the master cylinder ?

When you bled it, did the brake fluid pump out merrily ?

Let me know your thoughts !

John

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