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6 VE 1 oil leak top right timing belt cover

Hi , My Isuzu 6VE 1 engine has done 207000 kms and has an oil leak from the top side timing belt cover right hand side. I took it to a mechanic and quoted my $4000. to repair. He said holden know about this problem but it doesnt happen with every 6 VE ! engine. Have you heard of a similiar oil leak from this area of the engine.

Posted by Anonymous on

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: oil leak on right side under top engine cover

your valve cover gasket may have blown. This can happen if you overfill above the required dipstick level. take off the valve cover and check the gasket. Better to be under the level than over. The oil preassure will try to blow from where ever there is a weak gasket.

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

  • 1066 Answers

SOURCE: oil leak on top of valve cover (apparently)

I think you have a bad gasket on your oil filler cap.

Posted on Apr 06, 2009

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: Timing Belt Problem-6 cylinder Saturn wont' start

If your timing belt broke, then it is possible that the valves in your engine got bent, which won't allow the cylinders to pressurize the fuel/air mixture, and it will let all of the mix to flow freely into the intake/exhaust manifold. This can be checked with a pressure tester that is threaded into the spark plug opening. A mechanic should have one, or you can probably find one at an auto parts store.

Posted on May 21, 2009

  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: oil leak at the oil filter base of 96 Honda Accord V-6

Nope, just replace the oil filter. The filter may be loose or if the oil filter was placed without oil on the O-ring before installation will cause the O-rings to fail. If the car is due for an oil change, might as well service the engine and replace the oil and filter. Good luck and hope it's not the oil pressure sensor which will leak when it fails too and it's most of the time located by the oil filter area in most cars.

Posted on Dec 24, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: engine seized 2004 Kia Rio

Your timing belt may have failed. This allows one or more of the valves to be held in the open position and when the crankshaft comes around the piston hits the valve and seizes. The best way to check if this is the problem, using a long ratchet handle and socket that fits on the nut at the front of the crankshaft pulley, try to rotate the crank in the opposite direction of normal running direction. If you can turn the crank at all in either direction then the engine is not truely "seized".

The bad news is that the head is totally trashed, the valves are bent, possibly a hole in the face of a piston, and the crank may be warped. This happened to me and it's cheaper to buy a used engine than to rebuild the original. Still, with install about $3000-3500 out the door. I feel it should be illegal to sell such a poorly designed engine but what can you do. You must change the timing belt every 60,000 mi. max. and be sure to do the water pump each time as they have been the reason the belt goes at times.

Posted on Jun 19, 2010

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What are the timing marks for a 1999 2.2 dohc isuzu rodeo

how to time the cams.???
is covered best by a real ISUZU FSM book
2nd best is
id not time a lawn mower with autozoned. data. nor the books they sell.
there are lots of issues, doing this.
like how to lock cams up.
if engine is interference, its listed as such.
  • 2.2L Gasoline Interference
  • special rules on tensioning , right.
quote. (assumes not snapped belt now or stripped) do say....?
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Using a box-end wrench on the drive belt adjuster, turn the adjuster clockwise and remove the drive belt.
  3. From the left rear of the engine compartment, disconnect the 3 electrical connectors from the chassis harness.
  4. Remove the crankshaft pulley-to-crankshaft bolts and remove the pulley.
  5. From the front of the engine, remove the nut and the engine harness cover.
  6. Remove the timing belt cover.
  7. Rotate the crankshaft to position the timing marks at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the No. 1 cylinder's compression stroke.
  8. Remove the timing belt tensioner adjusting bolt and the tensioner from the engine.
  9. Remove the timing belt.
  10. install is next
  11. Install the timing belt tensioner and finger-tighten the tensioner bolt.
  12. Inspect the timing marks to be sure that the engine is positioned at TDC of the No. 1 cylinder's compression stroke.
  13. Using tool J-43037, or equivalent, place it between the intake and exhaust sprockets to prevent the camshaft gear from moving during the timing belt installation.
  14. Install the timing belt.
  15. Position the timing belt to ensure that the tension side of the belt is taut and move the timing belt tension adjusting lever clockwise until the tensioner pointer is flowing.
  16. If installing a used timing belt (used over 60 min. from new), the pointer should be positioned approximately 0.16 in. (4mm) to the left of the "V" notch when viewed from the front of the engine.
  17. If installing a new timing belt, the pointer should be positioned at the center of the "V" notch when viewed from the front of the engine.
  18. Torque the timing belt tensioner adjusting bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  19. Install the timing belt front cover and torque the bolts to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm).
  20. Install the engine harness connectors.
  21. Install the crankshaft pulley and toque the pulley-to-crankshaft bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
  22. Move the drive belt tensioner to the loose side and install the drive belt to its normal position.
  23. Connect the negative battery cable

got all that?

25943010-cuce0wieux21mzdophu4q5ww-4-0.jpg during the above do not let the valve hit the piston tops.
do not crank engine until 100% dead sure its timed right.
or BOOM. bent valves.

one guy found engine with no interference at all, later found all 12 bent over. and useless, but sure dont hit. now.... LOL...
just a warning, about DOHC engines, "respect them"
i build it back (was dead before) and then do a by hand cylinder leak down test, and if that fails, the head comes
off, i never crank a suspect engine (or dead), until i do that.

Nov 05, 2015 | Isuzu Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Do have to take off crank shafts pulley off to replace water pump on 97 Isuzu rodeo

wow the rare post that tells the job, waterpump off. bravo !
which engine? nobody ever posts, what engine they have,
you can log in and read it your self, on any car and engine

or ill guess engine,
so i guess
2.2L (chapter engine cooling, pump off)

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Radiator hose
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Front cover
    • Timing belt. Refer to the Timing Belt procedure.
    • Water pump
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Upper radiator hose
    • Timing belt. Refer to the Timing Belt procedure.
    • Idler pulley
    • Water pump
now the timing belt.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Disconnect PCV hose from cylinder head cover.
  3. Remove the air intake duct.
  4. Remove the left side ground cable from cylinder head cover and disconnect ground cable connector on the left side wheel arch. Remove right side ground cable from generator stay and disconnect ground cable connector on the right side wheel arch.
  5. Disconnect the 3 (black, green and blue colors) engine wire harness connectors from chassis harness of left rear side of compartment.
  6. Disconnect the cooling fan wire harness connector from cooling fan on left side top of fan shroud.
  7. Use a wrench to rotate the drive belt tensioner as shown to remove drive belt.
  8. Remove PCV hose from cylinder block.
  9. Remove intake duct stay from cylinder head.
  10. Remove two bolts for remove ignition cable cover from cylinder head cover.
  11. Disconnect ignition cable from ignition plug.
  12. Disconnect camshaft position sensor harness and crankshaft angle sensor harness from behind generator.
  13. Remove the 4 bolts, then remove the crankshaft pulley.
  14. Remove timing belt front cover.
  15. Loosen the timing belt rear cover bolts as shown in the accompanying figure, then remove the camshaft angle sensor.
  16. end cover off. (belt)
  17. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  18. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  19. Using a box-end wrench on the drive belt adjuster, turn the adjuster clockwise and remove the drive belt.
  20. From the left rear of the engine compartment, disconnect the 3 electrical connectors from the chassis harness.
  21. Remove the crankshaft pulley-to-crankshaft bolts and remove the pulley.
  22. From the front of the engine, remove the nut and the engine harness cover.
  23. Remove the timing belt cover.
  24. Rotate the crankshaft to position the timing marks at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the No. 1 cylinder's compression stroke.

  25. Remove the timing belt tensioner adjusting bolt and the tensioner from the engine.
  26. Remove the timing belt.
bingo the belts off, pump is exposed.
now the 3.2. im going to skip the v6
but there is one step that varies, per your question , that pulley
Use tool No. J-8614-01, or a suitable pulley holding tool to remove the crankshaft pulley center bolt. Remove the crankshaft pulley.

righty tighty-lefty loosey, or RHT, right hand threads.

on the 3.2/3.5L v6 the center bolts comes off.
and this

Install the crankshaft pulley and tighten the pulley bolt to 123 ft. lbs. (167 Nm).

if car is M/T we use 5th gear, to remove crank bolts
if car is A/T this is a pain, thus the tool above.
how to lock any A/T crank to achieve this is tricky.

show a nice list of ways, some work others dont.
depends on exact engine in question, not stated once.
fly wheel lock.
DIY tool on front bolts.

i usually just make my own tool, with angle iron
some use a chain wrench, (making a nice ugly mess)
Install the crankshaft pulley and tighten the pulley bolt to 123 ft. lbs.

so post back with engine size and trans type. so we can really help
above is wild guessing and to show tip of ice berg, timing belt issues, ever done one before on this engine? T belt??????
the v6 looks like this....on more wild guess.


Feb 05, 2015 | 1997 Isuzu Rodeo

2 Answers

Replacing a timing belt

1. Remove the timing chain cover. Its usually a black plastic cover on the side of the engine.
2. Loosen the timing belt tensioner. Its cylindrical shape thing made of metal and timing belt run over it.
3. After loosening it you can remove the old belt and place new belt.
4. Tighten the belt tensioner and put timing belt cover back.

Oct 22, 2012 | 1992 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Install timing belt

Like all OHCam engines and well, like all engines, Make sure #1 is TDC on the compression side, pull timing cover and look at the 2 or 3 pulleys. They have positioning marks on both the gear and engine case. MAKE SURE #1 piston is Top dead center, ( Sweet Spot) If you haven't done Overhead cam engines before, Get the book first. After you are sure #1 is up on the compression stroke and is TDC, look at the timing gears, locate the timing marks and ensure they are alligned. If so then loosen the timing belt tentioner pully bolt slide old belt off and carefully slide new belt on. MAKE SURE NO ONE goes near the car while this is taking place....!! Trust me, It took me 3 weeks to get my Isuzu running after NOBODY put the key in the ignition and spun it over a few times while I was cleaning the Timing cover.... Major night mare!! Go slow and recheck.. Good luck!!

Sep 18, 2012 | 1995 Honda Odyssey

1 Answer

I can't find an oil leak on the drivers side of my 1994 Isuzu trooper

if you mean cylinder head cover, i suggest you to look thoroughly the head cylinder cover. it may have crack or cracks that make oil leaks. magnified crack gets big when hot.

Feb 27, 2012 | 1994 Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

Yes hi my name is jose and i own a 1999 isuzu trooper and i am trying to replace the timing belt. i have taken it apart and i have tried to get the right timing on it but for some reason i cant get it. i...

I dont know your engine specificly, but all engines that I have ever timmed, you use cyl #1 at top dead center as timming ref. point. does you info say to use #2? if say its a 4 cyl. #1 would be front of engine, near belts and aternator, water pump not near where engine mounts to transmission.

Feb 19, 2011 | 1999 Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

How do i install a timming belt on 1998 vw beetle

It CAN be done in a home shop, but it is HUGELY time consuming and is not a job for the average person in their driveway.
If you wanna try though,
1) remove engine cover.
2) partially drain coolant and remove coolant reservoir (mark all the vacuum hoses)
3) remove fuel lines from the fuel distribution block/leak detection pump.
4) remove sparkplugs and drivebelt
5) remove upper timing belt cover (it has the enging info sticker on it)
6) jack up right front of car and support on jack stands, remove front wheel.
7) remove lower fender apron
8) Rotate the engine until piston 1 is at Top Dead Center. Verify that the camshaft sprocket mark is aligned witht he mark on the rear timing belt cover.
9) losen the crackshaft drive sporcket bolt and the pulley bolts. (you may have to use a strap wrench to keep the crackshft from ratating witht he wrench)
10 Make sure that the number 1 piston is still at top dead center.
11 Support the engine on a piece of wood and remove the right engine mount and engine moutn support bracket
12 remove lower timing belt cover
13 release the timing belt tensioner
14 remove the timing belt
15 Inspect the camshaft sprocket for damage
16 inspect belt for contamination by coolant or oil. If found locate and fix source of leak
17 Inspect the tensioner and idler pulleys for damage or wear replace if necessary.
Ok there are about 20 more step to put it back in and I am getting bored. a Haynes manual gives a step-by-step with photos and illustrations.
I woudl also recommend that, while you are there, you also replace the water pump. the factory pump was plastic and the fins have likely broken off. Replace with a metal aftermarket pump. Don't be afraid to spend a little money on a good pump and a good belt. The cost of the labor to replace the them far far outweighs the actual cost of parts

Oct 06, 2009 | 1998 Volkswagen Beetle

3 Answers

Oil pump is leaking on 1996 toyota camry, 2.2 lt

Since your friend just replaced the timing belt, there wouldn't be a need to replace the oil pump O-ring and crankshaft seal unless they were leaking.

No, you cannot get to the oil pump unless the crankshaft, lower timing belt cover and belt are removed.

I have the same exact car with the same engine and just replaced the oil pump O-ring and crankshaft seal. I'm a good mechanic, but this is a tedious and time consuming job, but It can be done if you have good mechanic skills.

There is a big chance that the car's engine timing will be off, have someone who is knowledgeable to set the engine timing. If you don't and try to start the car, serious engine damage will probably occur.

When you get the oil pump off removed all the old O-ring the new oil ring will not stay in place, I used petroleum jelly to keep the ring in place, it's perfectly safe and won't affect the operation of the oil pump.

If your not sure you can do the repair yourself, take it to a mechanic.

Mar 08, 2009 | 1996 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

7mge have oil leak

hi if your engine 22R front engine first in side timing cover where engine bully fitted there is oil seal, next valve cover front side between cover and head there seal not like oil seal half cercle shap it makes leak also front side of the camshaft there is oil seal..

Sep 12, 2008 | 1989 Toyota Cressida

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