Question about Buick Skylark

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Running hot The car was running hot and we noticed that it wasn't bleeding air out of the system properly. The Bleeder hose was completely clogged with brownish solidified sludge so we cleaned it out 100%. It seemed to work for a week or so and now it is hot again. Should I flush the system out, replace the radiator etc to catch all the sludge or is this some other larger issue? Also, fyi, replaced the water pump due to a leak. Holding pressure just fine now.

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  • Buick Master
  • 21,873 Answers

Depending on the age of the car and the maintenance done, or not, the cooling system could be clogged up. That would include the block and the radiator.
You can try having it power flushed where a machine is connected and coolant pushed thru and filtered.
Often times the sludge is caused when the coolant level is low and air pockets form.

Posted on Jul 16, 2013

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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davidkay61
  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: running hot

Radiator Fan Control Relay Switch. I bet your electric fan doesn't run?

Posted on Dec 01, 2008

  • 58 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 olds sillouette van. over heating. replaced

try doing a flushing out the coolant system the factory 150k mile coolant is really not good once you flush it i recommend using the the regular green and not the dexcool

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

  • 1118 Answers

SOURCE: air pressure in the engine

Sounds like air in system, does the temp guage fluxuwate or run higher than normal? or heater thros little or no heat? Do the cooling fans come one like they always have? thies are all signs of air in cooling system, and needs to be bleed out.

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

s_mcrobert
  • 73 Answers

SOURCE: the car is running hot, i replaced the thermostat

there could very well be air bubbles in the system most likely up near the thermostat or in the rad
its like feeding a baby when the baby is done he/she has to burp what i do is drain the rad and refill it while the car is running

Good Luck hope this helps

Posted on Sep 05, 2011

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I have an 01 GMC Jimmy 4.3L 4WD & we are trying to bleed the brakes but the scanner says my vehicle is going 3MPH so we manually bleed the brakes but the pedals still easily is pushed to the floor.


Bad master cylinder . What are you using a scan tool for ? No need Unless your Installing a new Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) or new Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV).
Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual)
Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Caution in the Preface section.
Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice in the Preface section.
Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.
With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
3.1. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary add GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Refer to Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations.
If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.
3.2. With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.
3.3. Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.4. Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.
3.5. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
3.6. Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.7. Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
3.8. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3-3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.
3.9. With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3-3.8.
3.10. After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.
Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.
Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 8-10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the right front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.
If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
21.1. Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection.
21.2. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.
Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.
Important: If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired.
If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes

Feb 26, 2017 | GMC Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2002 silhoutte new tstat,radiator,belts and hoses runs hot no water at bleeder valve water pump 2 yrs old


It is running hot because have an air lock in the system. Check that the bleeder valve is not blocked . Take a hose off that is high up and run the engine until water comes out . Replace the hose and check for water in the radiator. Open the heater system to help bleed out the air.. If that fails take it to a radiator s\hop and have them pressure bleed it.

Jan 17, 2014 | 2002 Oldsmobile Silhouette

1 Answer

How to bleed clutch 2007 compass


GRAVITY BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Verify fluid level in brake master cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.

2. Raise vehicle on hoist.

3. Remove bleed port protective cap and install suitable size and length of clear hose (4) to monitor and divert fluid into suitable container.

4. Open up the bleed circuit by turning the thumb screw (3) counter clockwise this will start the air purge and fluid fill process.

5. Lower vehicle, but only enough to gain access to and fill the brake master cylinder. NOTE: Do not allow clutch master cylinder to run dry while fluid exits bleed port.

6. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level while air is purged and fluid drains from bleed port. Continue this until no air bubbles are seen and a solid column of fluid exists.

7. Close hydraulic bleed circuit, remove drain hose and replace dust cap on bleed port.

8. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times.

9. Apply parking brake. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If pedal feels fine and clutch operates as designed, stop here. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.

10. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.

POWER BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to reservoir. NOTE: Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on #901-059 or equivalent.

2. Connect service filling machine to bleeder cap. NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder Brake power bleeder or equivalent.

3. Service filling machine should be pressurized to at least 2.5 bar (36 PSI).

4. Remove dust cap from bleeder valve and connect the transparent bleeder hose to bleeder valve.

5. Place the other end of hose in the bleeder container to capture the used fluid. The end of the hose MUST be submerged in the DOT 3 brake fluid.

NOTE: Use Bleeder Container To capture hydraulic fluid and Transparent Bleeder Hose To route fluid to container.

6. Turn on the service filling machine.

7. Crack open the bleeder valve (3).

8. Allow fluid to flow out of bleed port until no more air bubbles can be seen in the transparent bleeder hose.

9. Once fluid is free of air bubbles; make 15 quick actuations between clutch pedal stop positions.

10. Close the bleeder valve and disconnect the service filling machine.

11. To remove remaining air, actuate pedal 10 times slowly between pedal stop positions.

12. Check clutch pedal to see if vehicle is properly bled.

13. If vehicle is not properly bled, repeat procedure.

14. Remove bleeder cap from reservoir and replace reservoir cap.

15. Disconnect transparent bleeder hose from bleeder valve and replace dust cap.

Oct 15, 2013 | 2007 Jeep Compass Limited

1 Answer

How to bleed hydraulic clutch


Instructions:

1) The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.

2) Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.

3) Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set parking brake for extra safety...

4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container.

5) Open the bleeder valve. Fluid will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.

6) Close the bleeder valve.

7) Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.

8) Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release it fast. This tends to help **** fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble reduction.

9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.

10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.

11) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.

12) Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.

Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all over.

Alternate Technique: (these provided by Dirk). Here is one way you can try that really worked great for him.

1) Disconnect the hose from the bottom of the fluid reservoir
2) Use a hand pump to manually force the fluid down the line.
3) Reconnect line to reservoir after process and fill fluid as needed.

Note: The reverse bleeding procedure will not work on all rangers. Some rangers' bleeder is nothing but a tapered hex bolt with a hole in it, no real way to get a good seal on it.

Jul 17, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do I bleed brakes on a dodge stratus 1998


  • PRESSURE BLEEDING
  • MANUAL BLEEDING
  • Print
    For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
    The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

    WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.


    MASTER CYLINDER

    See Figure 1
    If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

    1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
    2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
    3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
    4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.



    0900c15280089cdc.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

    1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
    2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
    3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
    4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
    5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
    6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

    If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.


    PRESSURE BLEEDING

    When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

    1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
    2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
    4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
    5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
    6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.


    MANUAL BLEEDING

    See Figure 2
    Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel


    0900c15280089cdd.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

    1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
    4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
    5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
    6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

    May 31, 2012 | 1998 Dodge Stratus

    1 Answer

    Location of coolant drain plug on side of motor for a 1995 mitsubishi montero


    Not exactly,need to bleed air from system look topside of engine area for a bleeder port may need a filler reservoir full of coolant when doing this keep it full turn on heater full hot fan on high watch temp gauge if it gets hotter than normal reading and no hot air from heater ducts turn engine off ASAP it can be a pain in the grommet to bleed cooling systems but if you don't engine damage is imminent got to get air out of system drain plug on block does not sound right maybe it's on the top of block I have pulled hoses and filled system thru those and even used garden hose to force air out squeeze hoses rock vehicle and make big messes but don't overheat the engine from complete cool engine you have about ten minutes to get r done then let it cool down try again

    Apr 02, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    1999 Chrysler 300m heater won't get hot fan blows but doesn't heat


    Is there enough anti-freeze in the system?
    If so perhaps the system needs bleeding.
    On the front of the engine, on top near the big upper hose goose neck and nestled between the runners of the intake manifold is a small nipple that looks like a brake bleeder (10MM). This is a cooling system bleeder, a close cousin to the brake bleeder. When opened it will purge the system of air- likely the culpret you are experiencing. on a cold or just warm engine, this can be slightly opened with a wrench and the air can be "Burped" out. Attach a 1/4" clear hose to the nipple and open the bleeder until you see all the air has left the manifold. (Run the hose into a bucket and dispose of the used anti-freeze properly.)
    if that doesn't do it, maybe the thermostat is stuck in the open position. Replace it with a cold engine and use a new gasket each time.
    If all else fails, the heater core may be plugged.

    Nov 07, 2011 | 1999 Chrysler 300M

    2 Answers

    Just put in new clutch in 2001 f150 2wd 4.2 also new slave and master cylinder and pedal safety switch. After bleeding the pedal feels fine but the clutch does not seem to engage as the shifter will not...


    what you mean is the clutch is not disengaging the transmission from the engine, so you can shift it.

    This is always due to air trapeed in the clutch system. It is very hard to purge the air.

    You may have to have a shop use their evac/fill equipment, if they have it.

    Try raising the front of the truck as high as you can, including facing uphill. The air is likely trapped at the slave cylinder, not at the clutch.

    There is a video on you tube showing a guy purging air from a Ranger. See if you can view it.

    1) The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.

    2) Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.

    3) Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set parking brake for extra safety...

    4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container.

    5) Open the bleeder valve. Fluid will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
    Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.

    6) Close the bleeder valve.

    7) Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.

    8) Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release it fast. This tends to help **** fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble reduction.

    9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.

    10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.

    11) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.

    12) Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.

    Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all over.

    May 20, 2011 | 1989 Ford F 150

    1 Answer

    I'm a mid-age woman w/a 94 DeVille that I want to change the brake fluid myself. How do I do that? Thank you!


    BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING Diagonal Split System MASTER CYLINDER
    1. Refill the master cylinder reservoir.
    2. Push the plunger several times to force fluid into the piston.
    3. Continue pumping the plunger until the fluid is free of the air bubbles.
    4. Plug the outlet ports and install the master cylinder.
    COMPLETE SYSTEM
    1. Fill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid. Check the level often during the procedure.
    2. Starting with the right rear wheel, remove the protective cap from the bleeder, if equipped, and place where it will not be lost. Clean the bleed screw. When bleeding the brakes, keep face away from the brake area. Spewing fluid may cause facial and/or visual damage. Do not allow brake fluid to spill on the vehicle's finish; it will remove the paint.
    3. If the system is empty, the most efficient way to get fluid down to the wheel is to loosen the bleeder about 1?2 - 3?4 turn, place a finger firmly over the bleeder and have a helper pump the brakes slowly until fluid comes out the bleeder. Once fluid is at the bleeder, close it before the pedal is released inside the vehicle. NOTE: If the pedal is pumped rapidly, the fluid will churn and create small air bubbles, which are difficult to remove from the system. These air bubbles will eventually congregate resulting in a spongy pedal.
    4. Once fluid has been pumped to the caliper or wheel cylinder, open the bleed screw again, have the helper press the brake pedal to the floor, lock the bleeder and have the helper slowly release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds and repeat the procedure (including the 15 second wait) until no more air comes out of the bleeder upon application of the brake pedal. Remember to close the bleeder before the pedal is released inside the vehicle each time the bleeder is opened. If not, air will be induced into the system.
    5. If a helper is not available, connect a small hose to the bleeder, place the end in a container of brake fluid and proceed to pump the pedal from inside the vehicle until no more air comes out the bleeder. The hose will prevent air from entering the system.
    6. Repeat the procedure on remaining wheel cylinders in order:
      1. Step 1: Left front
      2. Step 2: Left rear
      3. Step 3: Right front
    7. Hydraulic brake systems must be totally flushed if the fluid becomes contaminated with water, dirt or other corrosive chemicals. To flush, bleed the entire system until all fluid has been replaced with the correct type of new fluid.
    8. Install the bleeder cap(s) on the bleeder to keep dirt out. Always road test the vehicle after brake work of any kind is done.
    Teves® Anti-lock Brake System FRONT BRAKES
    1. Turn the ignition switch OFF throughout this procedure.
    2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
    3. Remove the reservoir cap. Check and/or refill the master cylinder reservoir.
    4. Using the bleeder adapter tool, install it onto the fluid reservoir.
    5. Attach a diaphragm type pressure bleeder to the adapter and charge the bleeder to 20 psi.
    6. Using a transparent vinyl tube, connect it to either front wheel caliper and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
    7. Open the bleeder valve 1?2 - 3?4 turn and purge the caliper until bubble free fluid flows from the hose.
    8. Tighten the bleeder screw and remove the bleeder equipment.
    9. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the pump to charge the accumulator.
    10. After bleeding, inspect the pedal for sponginess and the brake warning light for unbalanced pressure; if either of the conditions exist, repeat the bleeding procedure.
    REAR BRAKES
    1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
    2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
    3. Check and/or refill the master cylinder reservoir.
    4. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the system to charge. NOTE: The pump will turn OFF when the system is charged.
    5. Using a transparent vinyl tube, connect it to a rear wheel bleeder valve and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
    6. Open the bleeder valve 1?2 - 3?4 turn and slightly depress the brake pedal for at least 10 seconds or until air is removed from the brake system. Close the bleeder valve. NOTE: It is a good idea to check the fluid level several times during the bleeding operation. Remember, depressurize the system before checking the reservoir fluid.
    7. Repeat the bleeding procedure for the other rear wheel.
    8. After bleeding, inspect the pedal for sponginess and the brake warning light for unbalanced pressure; if either of the conditions exist, repeat the bleeding procedure.
    Bosch® III Anti-lock Brake System
    1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
    2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
    3. Check and/or refill the reservoir to the full mark.
    4. Using a transparent vinyl hose, connect it to a pump bleeder screw and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
    5. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
    6. Move the transparent vinyl hose to the hydraulic unit bleeder screw. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
    7. Disconnect the bleeder hose.
    8. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the hydraulic unit to charge; the pump should turn OFF after 30 seconds.
    Bosch® 2U Anti-lock Brake System
    1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
    2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
    3. Check and/or refill the reservoir to the full mark.
    4. Using a transparent vinyl hose, connect it to a pump bleeder screw and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
    5. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
    6. Move the transparent vinyl hose to the hydraulic unit bleeder screw. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
    7. Disconnect the bleeder hose.
    8. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the hydraulic unit to charge; the pump should turn OFF after 30 seconds.
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    Sep 02, 2010 | 1994 Cadillac DeVille

    2 Answers

    There's no heat coming out of the vent, just cold air. What is the possible solution to this problem


    possible low anti freeze, air bound heater core, defective heat blend door control servo. Start with coolant level, if o.k. check hoses feeding heater core. If the lines are both hot suspect blend door servo/control unit. If only one hose hot suspect clogged/air bound core. Special bleed procedure for engine. With engine running, check for bleeder scews at upper hose mounting, open bleeder and watch for steady stream of coolant. Be careful as coolant is hot. If this does not help, disconnect hoses frm heater core when cool and blow out core with compressed air to unclog system. I hope this helps.

    Dec 25, 2009 | 2002 Acura 3.2TL

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